363 

C2, 

UC-NRLF 


APPLE  GROWING  IN 
CALIFORNIA 


CALIFORNIA  STATE  P      TING  OFFICE 


GIFT   OF 


THE  STATE  COMMISSION  OF  HORTICULTURE 
SACRAMENTO,  CALIFORNIA 


Apple  Growing  in  California 


A  Practical  Treatise  Designed  to  Cover  Some  of  the 

Important  Phases  of  Apple  Culture 

Within  the  State 


By  GEO.  P.  WELDON 

Chief  Deputy  State  Commissioner  of  Horticulture 


CALIFORNIA 

STATE  PRIM  i.\<,  <  n  n<  K 
1914 


13683 


PRESERVATION 
COPY  ADDED 
ORIGINAL  TO  BE 
RETAINED 

TABLE  OF  CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER    I.                                                              PAGE. 
STATISTICS 5 

CHAPTER  II. 
VARIETIES  14 

CHAPTER  III. 
PROPAGATION  OF  THE  APPLE 31 

CHAPTER  IV. 
SELECTION  OF  TREES  FOR  PLANTING 35 

CHAPTER  V. 
SOILS  AND  THEIR  PREPARATION  FOR  PLANTING 38 

CHAPTER  VI. 
SETTING  AND  CARING  FOR  THE  YOUNG  TRP^KS 44 

CHAPTER  VII. 
PRUNING 46 

CHAPTER  VIII. 
TOP-WORKING  APPLE  TREES 60 

CHAPTER  IX. 
INTERCROPPING 62 

CHAPTER  X. 
IRRIGATION,  CULTIVATION— COVER  CROPS  AND  FERTILIZERS 63 

CHAPTER  XI. 
THINNING  67 

CHAPTER  XII. 
INJURY  AND  PROTECTION  OF  APPLES  FROM  FREEZING- _  70 

CHAPTER  XIII. 
SPRAYING  THE  APPLE__ 


CHAPTER  XIV. 
INSECT  PESTS  OF  THE  APPLE 79 

CHAPTER  XV. 
DISEASES    OF    THE    APPLE__    92 

CHAPTER  XVI. 
PICKING,    GRADING   AND    PACKING 97 

CHAPTER  XVII. 
BY-PRODUCTS     .  102 

O  IT  AFTER    XVIII. 

PRODUCTION,    CONSUMPTION   AND   RECIPES _    104 

/„  .  PKAPT.E-R  XIX. 
INSECTICIDES    AND    FUNGICIDES. _  _    112 


PREFACE. 


The  great  importance  of  the  apple  in  our  state,  the  many  failures 
among  those  who  have  attempted  to  grow  this  fruit,  the  common  opinion 
that  an  apple  orchard  can  not  be  made  a  paying  proposition,  and  the 
hopeless  neglect  and  consequent  failure  to  produce  what  might  be 
beautiful  and  profitable  orchards,  together  with  a  dearth  of  litera- 
ture on  the  subject,  are  some  of  the  things  that  induced  the  author  to 
write  this  little  book.  It  is  published  with  a  realization  of  its  incom- 
pleteness and  possible  errors,  but  if  it  will  in  a  small  way,  at  least,  serve 
as  a  guide  to  future  profitable  apple  culture  in  California,  the  efforts 
put  forth  will  in  no  way  be  regretted. 

While  primarily  a  treatise  on  apple  culture,  several  of  the  chapters 
are  designed  to  teach  lessons  that  will  be  valuable  in  the  culture  of  other 
fruits:  For  example,  chapters  on  Pruning,  Intercropping  and  Cover 
Crops. 

1  wish  to  express  thanks  to  Dr.  A.  J.  Cook,  under  whose  direction  the 
investigations  were  conducted,  and  who  has  at  all  times  cooperated 
with  me  in  the  work.  His  valuable  assistance  in  reading  the  manu- 
script is  appreciated. 

Thanks  are  also  due  Prof.  A.  V.  Stubenrauch,  Pomologist  of  the  State 
I.'niversity  at  Berkeley,  Mr.  W.  H.  Volck,  County  Horticultural  Com- 
missioner of  Santa  Cruz  County  and  Mr.  W.  S.  Ballard,  Pathologist, 
Fruit-Disease  Investigations,  United  States  Department  of  Agriculture, 
i-rK-h  of  whom  kindly  read  parts  of  my  manuscript;  also  to  Mr.  E.  J. 
Vosler.  Secretary  of  the  State  Commission  of  Horticulture  and  Mr.  H.  S. 
Smith.  Superintendent  of  the  State  Insectary,  for  the  same  courtesy. 

For  illustrations  I  am  indebted  to  the  State  University,  Mr.  C.  B. 
AYVeks,  County  Horticultural  Commissioner  of  Tehama  County, 
Mr.  O.  E.  Bremner,  County  Horticultural  Commissioner  of  Sonoma 
County,  and  Mr.  J.  F.  Benton  of  Arcata. 

GEO.  P.  WELDOX. 

Sacramento,  California,  November  5,  1914. 


395001 


APPLE  GROWING  IN  CALIFORNIA. 


CHAPTER  I. 

STATISTICS. 

There  is  no  more  cosmopolitan  fruit  among  the  long  list  grown, 
than  the  apple.  It  adapts  itself  to  the  cold  climates  of  the  north  as  well 
as  to  the  more  temperate  regions  farther  south.  Practically  every  state 
in  the  Union  boasts  of  some  places  where  apples  can  be  produced,  and  as 
far  north  on  the  continent  as  British  Columbia  we  lind  them  doing 
remarkably  well.  The  climate  and  soil  in  many  parts  of  California  are 
admirably  suited  to  the  Crowing  of  this  fruit.  Prof.  E.  J.  "Wiekson,  in 
his  *•  ( 'alifomia  Fruits, "  divides  the  state  into  five  regions,  viz:  northern 
const  region,  central  coast  region,  interior  valleys  and  foothills,  moun- 
tain valleys  and  plateaus,  and  southern  California,  and  gives  a  long 
list  of  varieties  that  are  adapted  to  the  diversified  conditions  of  these 
regions.  The  central  coast  region  has  so  far  produced  a  very  great  part 
of  the  state's  output  of  apples,  in  fact  is  the  only  region  which  has  taken 
u p  apple  orcharding  on  a  large  scale.  With  splendid  transportation 
facilities  and  with  conditions  of  soil  and  climate  such  that  certain 
varieties  have  done  well,  Santa  Cruz  and  Sonoma  counties,  despite  their 
low  elevation  and  frequent  fogs,  have  produced  Yellow  Bellflowers, 
Yellow  Xewtowns  and  Uravensteins.  that  have  made  them  famous.  The 
northern  coast  region,  including  within  its  borders  Mendocino  and 
Ilumboldt  counties,  is  fast  coming  to  the  front,  and  the  vast  region 
classified  under  the  name  of  "mountain  valleys  and  plateaus"  contains 
an  abundance  of  land  upon  which  apples  of  superior  quality  can  be 
grown.  From  an  elevation  of  about  2,000  to  6,000  feet  along  the  Sierra 
Nevada  ran  ire  may  be  seen  orchards  and  remnants  of  orchards  in  prac- 
tically all  of  the  counties  which  extend  into  these  mountains.  Fig.  1 
shows  an  orchard  at  an  elevation  of  about  5,000  feet.  Transportation 
facilities  are  not  such  at  present  as  to  favor  these  sections,  and  since  the 
markets  are  well  supplied  with  shipments  from  AVatsonvillc  and  other 
railroad  points,  the  pioneer  orchardists  of  the  mountains  have  been 
forced  to  irive  up  their  practice  of  hauling  the  crop  a  long  distance  and 
the  orchards  no  longer  paying  are  neglected.  Many  splendid  trees  in 
some  of  these  old  remnants  of  orchards  may  still  be  seen,  indicative  of 
the  possibilities  of  apple  culture  in  the  mountainous  parts  of  the  state. 

The  economic  value  of  the  apple  is  probably  greater  than  that  of  any 
other  fruit.  Its  cosmopolitan  nature  has  made  it  a  favorite  for  planting. 
and  its  food  value  is  such  as  to  make  it  prized  above  all  our  fruits.  The 
cry  of  overproduction  has  rmm  in  our  ears  until  we  wonder  sometimes 
that  any  one  has  the  nerve  to  1:0  into  the  business.  I)e>pite  this  cry  there 
\8  xiill  ;(  -(MM!  profit  to  b«  made  from  the  well  cared  for  on-hard  of  good 
varieties,  well  grown  and  packed.  The  apple  business  of  the  future 
must  go  to  those  sections  where  the  fruit  can  be  produced  best,  for  small, 
irnarly  apples  will  not  pay  for  the  expense  of  growing  them,  while  the 


APPLE    GROWING    IN    CALIFORNIA. 


APPLK  <;RO\VIN<;   IN   CALIFORNIA.  7 

finer  grades  will  command  a  handsome  price.  Undesirable  varieties 
in  each  locality  must  be  weeded  out,  either  by  their  removal  entirely  or 
by  grafting  them  over  to  desirable  varieties.  The  orchard  containing  as 
many  varieties  as  there  are  trees  must  give  way  to  one  of  only  a  few 
of  the  best.  Specialization  is  the  keynote  to  success  in  the  apple  business, 
as  elsewhere,  and  only  the  sections  which  unite  in  the  growing  of  a  few 
well  adapted  varieties  can  hope  to  gain  a  reputation  for  their  product 
and  the  market  which  as  a  consequence  will  be  created. 

It  is  a  well  known  fact  that  the  acreage  planted  to  apple  trees  in 
recent  years  lias  been  very  large,  and  this  fact  has  been  a  cause  for 
alarm  among  those  already  in  the  business  and  has  discouraged  planting 
among  others.  One  of  the  chief  factors  limiting  the  production  of  apples 


Fig.   2. — Orchard    scene   near   Julian,    San    Diego    County.      (Original) 

is  frost,  and  practically  every  state  where  they  are  grown  is  subject  to 
periodical  injury  from  it.  and  because  the  acreage  of  this  fruit  is  great, 
it  does  not  necessarily  follow  that  the  crop  will  be  great  every  season, 
and  prices  low  as  a  consequence.  This  one  factor,  frost,  has  driven  many 
a  man  in  the  apple  business  to  the  "wall,"  and  no  doubt  will  continue 
to  drive  others,  for  planting  in  frost-subjected  areas,  because  of  an  occa- 
sional  good  crop,  will  never  entirely  cease.  California  can  boast  of 
-  that  are  as  free  from  killing  spring  frosts  as  any  that  may  be 
found,  and  one  who  is  growing  fruit  of  any  kind  may  feel  reasonably 
NII re  of  a  fairly  good  crop  annually.  This  assurance  of  an  annual  crop 
in  many  parts  of  California  is  not  possessed  by  states  less  fortunately 
situated,  and  is  a  great  point  in  her  favor. 


8  APPLE   GROWING   IN    CALIFORNIA. 

At  the  present  time  the  apple  business  is  somewhat  discouraging,  but 
there  is  no  reason  to  doubt  that  the  time  will  come  when  it  will  be  good 
again.  Periods  of  low  prices  always  have  a  tendency  to  weed  out  many 
unprofitable  orchards,  thus  decreasing  the  acreage  to  the  decided  advan- 
tage of  those  that  are  properly  cared  for  or  more  favorably  situated. 

In  the  annual  reports  received  from  the  county  horticultural  com- 
missioners for  the  past  year,  the  bearing  and  non-bearing  acreage  of 
apples  in  the  various  counties  where  these  officials  are  at  work,  was 
given.  A  table,  which  follows,  has  been  compiled,  showing  the  counties 
from  which  these  reports  came,  and  the  number  of  acres  in  each  case. 

TABLE    GIVING    ACREAGE    OF    APPLES. 


County 


Bearing 


Non- bearing 


Alameda    --- 

136 

100 

Butte  --       .      .  . 

.  .-500 

400 

Contra  Costa  .    - 

_.         _     .                           160 

80 

El  Dorado  .    .';    _—  ,  

350 

200 

Glenn   _..      _  _    

78 

140 

Humboldt 

1,100 

Inyo   -      ._-__.—    -- 

1,000 

1,100 

Kern   _      ._  

.  100 

1,857 

Lake  

135 

82 

Los  Angeles  

1,400 

800 

Madera     

203 

70 

Mendocino  ..    

!*4iS 

180 

Merced  

80 

40 

Modoc   

•                       2li5 

335 

Monterey   

4,500 

000 

Nevada   

1,500 

20Q 

Placer 

450 

Riverside    .    

.  498 

2,419 

Sacramento 

344 

•"><) 

San  Benito  

325 

150 

San  Bernardino     . 

1  ,024 

10,181 

San  Diego  ..  

1,110 

271 

Santa  Barbara      --    -_    __ 

400 

150 

Santa  Clara  

430 

624 

Santa  Cruz  _.    _.  .__ 

15,000  • 

1,500 

Shasta    

300 

140 

Siskiyou   --    

;                     800 

1,250 

Sonoma    -  

6,988 

5,167 

Stanislaus   .. 

113 

20 

Sutter    -  

200 

50 

Tehama    _. 

_     _  500    

Tulare   

.  ;                        300 

100 

Yolo   

25    

- 

Yuba    

430 

75 

Total  

41,649 

27,891 

During  the  past  summer  a  list  of  twelve  questions  was  sent  out  to  one 
hundred  and  eighty  apple  growers  in  the  following  counties :  But  to, 
El  Dorado,  Fresno,  Humboldt,  Madera,  Mendocino,  Monterey,  River- 
side, San  Bernardino,  San  Diego,  Santa  Cruz,  Sonoma,  and  Tehama. 
Sixty-eight  out  of  the  total  number  to  whom  the  list  was  sent  responded, 
and  the  answers  to  these  questions  contain  so  much  of  interest  that  a 
table  has  been  prepared,  giving  them  in  full  just  as  they  were  received, 
with  the  exception  of  question  No.  12,  which  is  answered  under  the 
heading  ''Varieties." 


APPLE   GROWING   IN   CALIFORNIA.  9 

Following  is  the  list  of  questions  and  the  table,  in  which  the  numbers 
in  first  column  correspond  to  those  in  list : 

1.  How  many  packed  boxes  of  apples  per  tree  do  you  consider  an 
average  crop  for  your  orchard  .' 

2.  How  many  packed  boxes  per  tree  do  your  heaviest  bearing  trees 
produce  ? 

3.  How  old  are  your  trees  ? 

4.  What  per  cent  of  your  apple  crop  is  packed  ? 

5.  What  per  cent  is  dried  ? 

6.  What  per  cent  is  made  into  cider,  jelly,  vinegar,  or  sold  locally '? 
Indicate  which. 

7.  What  is  the  average  price  per  pound  net  to  the  grower,  for  dried 
apples  ? 

8.  What  is  the  average  price  per  box  to  the  grower  for  packed 
appl 

9.  What  is  the  approximate  elevation  of  your  orchard  ? 

10.  Do  you  practice  thinning? 

11.  Is  your  orchard  irrigated? 


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14  .          APPLE   GROWING   IN    CALIFORNIA. 

CHAPTER  II. 

VARIETIES. 

It  is  interesting  to  note  in  connection  with,  first  choice  of  varieties 
in  answer  to  question  No.  12  (Name  your  leading  varieties  in  the  order 
of  their  importance),  that  one  man,  reporting  from  Butte  County, 
places  Black  Ben  first.  Four  reporting  from  El  Dorado — and  no  two 
agreeing — gave  their  first  choice  as  follows:  Rome  Beauty,  Esopus, 
Baldwin  and  Button.  One  man  from  Fresno  reports  Fameuse  as  his 
first  choice.  Humboldt  County  is  represented  by  six  growers,  giving 
their  first  choice  as  Wagener,  King,  Esopus,  Yellow  Bellflower,  and  two 
favored  Rhode  Island  Greening.  Two  reports  from  Madera  County 
were  received,  both  giving  Winter  Pearmain  as  the  leading  variety  for 
this  section.  In  Mendocino  County  the  following  varieties  are  said  to 
be  the  best  by  four  who  answered  the  questions :  Jonathan,  Swaar,  King 
and  Baldwin.  One  report  from  Monterey  County  places  the  Yellow 
Newt  own  first.  Eleven  orchardists  reported  from  Riverside  County, 
giving  a  leading  place  to  the  following:  King  David,  Esopus,  Rhode 
Island  Greening,  three  favored  Rome  Beauty  and  five  Delicious.  Eight 
orchardists  were  heard  from  in  San  Bernardino  County,  one  giving  the 
Jonathan  first  place,  two  Winesap  and  five  Rome  Beauty.  From  San 
Diego  County  nine  reports  came,  one  giving  Jonathan  as  the  leading 
variety,  one  Julian  Duchess,  one  Paragon,  three  Yellow  Newtown,  and 
three  Yellow  Bellflower.  As  would  naturally  be  expected,  only  two 
varieties  were  given  first  place  by  nine  of  the  leading  orchardists  report- 
ing from  Santa  Cruz  County;  six  favored  the  Yellow  Newtown  and 
three  the  Yellow  Bellflower. 

The  second  county  in  importance  from  the  standpoint  of  produc- 
tion, viz,  Sonoma,  is  represented  in  these  answers  by  eleven  growers, 
eight  of  whom  favor  the  Gravenstein,  one  the  Alexander,  one  the  Rome 
Beauty  and  one  the  Yellow  Newtown.  One  report  from  Tehama  County 
gives  the  Yellow  Newtown  first  place. 

The  following  is  a  complete  list  of  the  varieties,  arranged  alphabet- 
ically as  they  were  sent  in,  making  a  total  of  forty-eight  in  all,  reported 
upon.  Brief  descriptions  of  twenty  of  these  and  illustrations  of  nine  of 
the  best  follow,  also  a  supplementary  list  of  varieties  not  reported  upon 
by  growers,  but  most  of  which  the  writer  has  seen  growing  somewhere 
in  the  state,  and  which  are  recommended  for  trial  lay  those  who  are 
experimenting  with  varieties.  Thus  a  total  of  seventy-two  varieties. 
not  including  the  lists  of  summer  varieties  and  crabs,  is  given.  This 
contains  practically  all  varieties  commonly  found,  and  it  is  hoped  may 
serve  as  a  guide  in  the  selection  of  suitable  kinds  for  future  planting 
by  some  to  whom  this  book  may  find  its  way. 


<;K<>\VI.\<;   IN   C.\I.IK« >HM.\.  15 

VARIETIES. 

Alexamlrr  <  Jravi-nsn-in  Red   I'earuiuin 

Arkansas  (Jrimes  Red  Winter 

Arkansas    Klu.-k  Ho..  Rhode  Island  Greening 

P.aldwin  Jonathan  Rome  Beauty 

Banana  Julian   Duchess  Smith 

Ken  Davis  King  Stark 

Black  Ben  King  David  Stayman  Winesap 

( 'hampion  Lankford  Sutton 

Cook's  Seedling  Lawvt-r  Swaar 

Ih-lawan-    R»«d  Mclntosh  Twenty  Ounce 

Delicious  Minkler  Wagener. 

K-ipus  Missouri  Pippin  White   Pippin 

Fall  Pippin  Orange  Pippin  Winesap 

Fallawater  Ortley  Winter  Pearraain 

Fameuse  Paragon  Yellow   Bellflower 

<;i(.ria  Mnndi  Red   Astrachan  Yellow  Newtown 

SUPPLEMENTARY   LIST. 

P.ailey   Sweet  Rambo 

Bietigheimer  Romanite 

Canada  Red  Sheepnose 

Keswick  Codling  Sheriff 

Maiden  Blush  Smokehouse 

Mann  Tolman 

MrMahon  White  Utter 

Northern    Spy  Walbridge 

Northwestern  Wealthy 

Pewaukee  Wolf  River 

Plum  Cider  York  Imperial 
Rails 

SUMMER   VARIETIES. 

The  exceptionally  early  season  for  ripening  of  all  fruits  in  parts  of 
('alifornia  opens  up  the  possibility  of  growing  summer  varieties  of 
apples  that  will  reach  the  markets  earlier  than  those  from  any  other 
of  our  apple  growing  states.  With  San  Francisco,  Los  Angeles,  Sacra- 
mento and  other  large  cities  at  hand,  there  should  be  a  good  local 
demand.  For  a  great  many  years  the  Sacramento  Valley  river  bottom 
below  Sacramento  has  grown  Red  Astrachans  and  other  summer  varie- 
ties to  good  advantage.  The  severe  attack  of  the  codling  moth  has 
probably  done  more  toward  discouraging  growers  than  anything  else. 
As  this  pest  is  entirely  under  the  control  of  those  who  take  the  necessary 
pains  to  fight  it  in  the  proper  way — as  discussed  in  the  chapter  on 
"Insect  Pests  of  the  Apple" — there  is  no  good  reason  why  it  should 
put  any  one  out  of  business.  With  proper  attention  to  pruning,  spray- 
in  <r  and  cutting  out  blight,  along  with  the  proper  handling  of  the  soil, 
much  irreater  returns  should  be  realized  than  those  of  the  average 
<jTower  at  present. 

The  following  list  of  varieties  is  printed  in  the  order  of  their  ripening. 
They  are  all  good,  each  one  having  some  special  characteristics  to  com- 
mend it : 

Early  Harvest  Yellow   Transparent 

Oldenburg  Red  Astrachan 

Red  June  Chenango 


16  APPLE    GROWING   IN    CALIFORNIA. 

CRAB  APPLES. 

Crab  apples  will  always  be  prized  by  many  for  making  jelly,  pickling 
and  preserving  purposes.  To  those  who  wish  to  set  out  a  few  trees  the 
following  list  of  varieties  is  recommended : 

Florence  Siberian,  Red  or  Yellow 

Hyslop  Transcendent 

Martha  Whitney 

ARKANSAS.1 

The  above  variety  is  probably  better  known  under  the  name  of  Mam- 
moth Black  Twig,  and  is  grown  only  to  a  very  limited  extent  in  the 
state.  It  is  of  the  Winesap  type,  probably  a  seedling  from  it,  but  of 
somewhat  inferior  quality.  The  keeping  qualities  are  about  the  same. 
Under  some  conditions  it  is  quite  subject  to  the  Baldwin  spot  disease. 

The  trees  are  very  large  and  thrifty  and  are  inclined  to  be  uncertain 
bearers. 

ARKANSAS    BLACK. 

This  variety  closely  resembles  the  Winesap  and  is  thought  to  be  a 
seedling  from  it.  In  some  parts  of  the  state  it  is  quite  a  popular 
variety,  especially  in  southern  California.  It  takes  on  a  very  deep  red 
color,  which  polishes  beautifully,  making  a  good  showing  on  the  fruit 
stands,  and  usually  commanding  a  ready  sale.  Quality  is  fair  but  some- 
what coarse.  Keeping  qualities  are  excellent. 

The  trees  are  thifty  growers  as  a  rule,  but  are  inclined  to  bear  lightly 
in  some  sections  of  the  country.  Whether  or  not  this  applies  to  our 
California  conditions  the  writer  has  been  unable  to  determine. 

BALDWIN. 

There  are  few  finer  apples  than  this  variety  when  at  its  prime.  So 
far  it  has  been  grown  to  a  limited  extent  in  the  state,  being  subject  to 
an  obscure  disease  known  as  Baldwin  spot,  which  very  often  ruins  it 
for  market.  In  the  East  it  is  considered  to  be  one  of  the  standards.  In 
a  few  favored  localities  in  the  mountains  of  California  it  has  been 
found  doing  quite  well,  and  in  Sonoma  County  quite  a  large  acreage 
has  been  planted,  and  with  a  few  of  the  orchardists  it  is  a  popular 
variety. 

The  trees  are  strong  growers. 

BLACK   BEN. 

While  in  times  past  the  old  Ben  Davis  apple  has  not  only  been  a  great 
producer  but  a  money  maker  as  well,  there  is  little  excuse  at  this  time 
of  keen  competition  among  growers  of  superior  varieties  for  planting 
it.  Its  place  may  be  taken  by  the  far  superior  Black  Ben  or  Gano. 
While  the  quality  of  this  apple  is  little  if  any  better  than  the  first  men- 
tioned, the  beautiful  color  makes  it  a  good  seller.  It  is  not  good 
judgment  to  advertise  a  fruit  because  of  color — not  taking  into  con- 
sideration the  quality — yet  as  long  as  people  prefer  a  red  apple 
regardless  of  what  is  inside  the  skin,  this  will  be  a  favorite  variety. 
The  keeping  qualities  are  on  a  par  with  those  of  the  common  Ben  Davis. 

Trees  are  ordinarily  healthy  and  thrifty  growers,  and  are  inclined  to 
bear  regularly  and  heavily.  If  one  wants  to  plant  a  Ben  Davis  apple, 
and  still  have  a  variety  that  sells  well,  this  one  should  commend  itself 
and  should  do  well  in  sections  where  color  attains  its  maximum  in 
varieties. 


'Mammoth  Black  Twig. 


APPLE    GROWING    IN    ( '  \I.IK<  >KMA. 


DELICIOUS. 


(Fig.  3.) 

This  being  one  of  our  newest  varieties,  has  not  been  tested  in  the 
slate  sufficiently  to  determine  its  true  value.  It  is,  however,  quite  prom- 
ising in  certain  parts  of  the  foothills  and  mountainous  sections  of 
California.  The  quality  is  of  the  best  and  there  are  few 


Fig.   3.— The  Delicious.      (Original) 

apples  more  juicy  and  pleasant  to  the  taste  than  this  one,  when  in  its 
prime.  The  shape  is  very  irregular,  making  it  a  somewhat  difficult 
variety  to  pack.  The  keeping  qualities  are  good. 

AVIu'iv  this  variety  has  been  observed  in  the  state,  trees  have  done 

well,  and  have  come  into  bearing  quite  early.     Whether  or  not  it  will 

sti-ady  bearer  remains  to  be  seen.     Indications  at  present  are  that 

it  will  l)e  one  of  our  best  varieties  in  certain  sections.     Figure  4  shows 

a  fine  tree  of  this  variety  in  the  Frank  Femmons  orchard  near  Oakhurst. 


2 — 13683 


Fig.  4. — A    heavily    loaded    tree    of    the    Delicious    variety    near    Oakhurst,    Madera 

County.      (Original) 


f-    5. — The  Gravonstfin.      (Original) 


APPLE   GROWING   IN    CALIFORNIA. 


19 


GRAVENSTEIN. 

This  very  popular  fall  variety  has  been  grown  extensively  only  in 
the  Sebastopol  section  of  Sonoma  County  and  has  there  reached  its 
greatest  perfection.  It  has  been  found  doing  well  in  many  parts  of  the 
state.  The  Gravenstein  is  a  favorite  for  general  use  during  its  season. 
When  well  colored  it  is  golden  yellow,  beautifully  streaked  with  red. 
The  stem  is  very  short  and  there  is  sometimes  considerable  .trouble 
•  •xprrienced  with  the  dropping  of  the  fruit  before  it  is  ripe.  The  loss 
from  dropping  may  be  greatly  lessened  by  careful  thinning.  It  may 


Fig.   6. — The  Grimes.      (Original) 

be  kept  in  cold  storage  for  two  or  three  months,  but  is  inclined  to  go 
down  rapidly  upon  being  removed. 

In  California  the  trees  are  usually  thrifty  and  inclined  to  make  quite 
a  strong,  heavy  growth. 

The  great  success  that  has  come  to  the  apple  growers  of  Sonoma 
County  in  growing  this  variety  has  made  it  standard  for  that  section, 
and  has  illustrated  the  value  of  specializing  in  the  apple  business. 

GRIMES.2 

During  the  investigations  preparatory  to  the  publication  of  this  work, 
the  above  apple  has  not  been  commonly  found  growing  in  the  state, 

'Grimes  Golden  Pippin. 


20 


APPLE   GROWING   IN   CALIFORNIA. 


and  is  deserving  of  trial  by  those  who  an.1  experimenting  with  varieties, 
as  it  is  a  showy  apple  of  excellent  quality,  being  popular  both  for  eating 
and  cooking  purposes.  Like  most  other  apples  of  a  light  color  it  is 
somewhat  delicate  and  must  be  handled  with  care.  Keeping  qualities 
are  not  very  good,  but  no  doubt  vary  much  with  apples  from  different 
localities. 

The  •  trees   are  fairly  thrifty  when   grown   on  soil   suited  to  them. 


Fig.   7. — The  Jonathan.      (Original) 

Only  an  occasional  one  has  been  observed  in  this  state,  but  on  these  some 
very  fine  specimens  were  growing.  It  is  recommended  for  trial  in  the 
mountain  sections,  especially  of  soiithern  California. 

JONATHAN. 

(Fig.   7.) 

This  excellent  variety  has  not  been  grown  extensively  in  the  state, 
but  there  are  places  in  Riverside,  San  Bernardino,  San  Diego,  El  Do- 
rado, Mendocino  and  Ilumboldt  counties,  at  least,  where  it  has  done 
well.  Its  beautiful  red  color,  combined  with  excellent  quality,  makes  it 


APPU:  <;RO\VIN<;   IN   CALIFORNIA. 


21 


a  favorite.  When  picked  before  too  ripe  it  is  a  fairly  good  keeper,, 
l)riiiir  in  its  prime  during  the  holidays.  In  storage  it  is  subject  to  a 
condition  known  as  Jonathan  spot,  and  should  not  be  held  long  after 
the  first  of  January. 

The  tree  is  inclined  to  be  small  under  most  conditions,  and  it  should 
not  be  set  except  in  good  and  well-adapted  soil,  and  is  not  recommended 
for  L'vneral  planting  in  the  state.  Figure  8  is  of  a  five-year-old  Jonathan 
tree^near  Beaumont,  and  Figure  9  of  an  older  tree,  well  loaded  with 
fruit  in  San  Diego  County.  In  both  the  orchards  when-  these  pictures 
were  la  ken  the  trees  had  made  a  splendid,  thrifty  growth,  and  the  fruit 
they  produced  was  of  the  best.  Some  splendid,  well-colored  specimens 


Fijr.    s. — Fine  sperm 


mathan  trees  near  Beaumont,  Riverside  County. 
(Original) 


have  been  received  from  the  J.  E.  Hassler  orchard  at  Placerville.  The 
excellence  that  this  variety  attains  in  Utah  and  Colorado,  and  the 
highest  market  prices  that  are  received  by  growers  in  these  states,  make 
it  desirable  that  it  be  grown  in  California  only  where  it  will  attain  some- 
where near  the  perfection  that  it  does  there.  In  general  it  is  a  fairly 
irood  producer,  coming  into  bearing  early  and  maturing  crops  with 
great  regularity. 

Trees  should  be  pruned  heavily  for  the  first  five  years,  and  the 
irn-atest  strength  of  scaffold  branches  developed,  as  they  have  a  tend- 
•  •n«-y  to  grow  slender  and  willow-like,  thus  being  unable  to  hold  up  a 
y  load  of  fruit  to  the  best  advantage. 


KING  DAVID. 

This  beautifully  colored  variety  is  becoming  quite  popular  in  some  sec- 
tions of  the  state,  but  as  yet  has  not  been  thoroughly  tested  out  under 
California  conditions.  In  some  of  the  newer  sections  of  Riverside  and 


22 


APPLE   GROWING   IN   CALIFORNIA, 


San  Bernardino  counties  it  is  being  planted  quite  extensively.  The 
appearance  is  strikingly  like  that  of  the  Jonathan,  but  the  flavor  and 
quality  are  somewhat  inferior. 

It  is  too  soon  to  predict  what  the  future  for  this  variety  will  be.  So 
far  it  has  done  well  from  the  standpoint  of  growth  of  trees  and  pro- 
duction of  fruit. 

ORTLEY. 

The  Ortley  or  White  Bellflower  does  remarkably  well  in  parts  of  the 
foothill  region.  In  Placer  and  Mariposa  counties  this  variety  has 


Fig.   9. — Well-loaded  Jonathan  tree  near  Julian,  San  Diego  County.      (Original) 

attained  a  high  degree  of  excellence,  and  apples  have  been  sought  after 
for  table  use.  It  is  an  apple  similar  to  the  Yellow  Bellflower,  but  of 
better  quality.  Like  many  of  the  light  skinned  varieties  it  is  exceed- 
ingly^  delicate  and  susceptible  to  limb  scars  and  blemishes  from  other 
injuries.  The  season  is  about  with  that  of  the  Jonathan  and  the  two 
varieties  together  on  the  table  make  a  veritable  bouquet. 
The  trees  are  normally  thrifty  and  good  bearers. 


APPLE   GROWING    IN    CALIFORNIA. 


23 


ROME    BEAUTY. 

The  Rome  Beauty  is  quite  a  general  favorite  for  planting  in  certain 
sections  of  California,  where  it  is  known  to  do  well.  When  highly 
colored  it  is  one  of  our  finest  appearing  apples.  Flesh  is  very  firm 
and  of  good  quality.  The  keeping  qualities  are  of  the  best  and  speci- 
mens may  be  held  over  from  one  season  to  another.  There  are  few 
apples  that  command  a  higher  price  than  this  one  when  in  its  prime. 

The  trees  are  inclined  to  be  somewhat  small,  and  of  upright  habits 


t 


Kitf.    10. — The   Rome   Beauty.       (Original) 

of  growth,  unless  on  very  favorable  soils.  They  come  into  bearing 
early  and  are  usually  heavy  and  consistent  producers.  Because  of  a 
late  blooming  habit  this  variety  often  escapes  early  spring  frosts  that 
mean  disaster  to  those  varieties  that  bloom  earlier.  For  this  reason  it 
is  an  excellent  variety  to  plant  in  sections  where  damage  frequently 
takes  place  from  such  frosts.  Trees  are  quite  susceptible  to  the  attack 
of  woolly  aphis,  irreen  apple  aphis  and  other  species  which  affect 
apple  trees. 


24 


APPLE   GROWING   IN   CALIFORNIA. 


Some  of  the  finest  specimens  of  this  variety  that  the  writer  has  ever 
seen  came  from  the  Yucaipa  section  of  San  Bernardino  County.  There 
are  several  orchards  in  this  section  at  an  elevation  of  about  five  thousand 
feet  where  Rome  Beauties  are  grown.  Mr.  Geo.  Eowe  of  Grand  Rapids, 
Michigan,  who  has  been  head  judge  of  the  California  apple  show  each 
season  since  its  organization,  has  seen  specimens  of  the  variety  from 
this  section  and  considers  them  to  be  extra  fine.  Coming  from  an 


Fig.  11. — Young  Rome  Beauty  tree  with 
heavy  load  of  fruit;  Yucaipa,  San 
Bernardino  County.  (Original) 


authority  on  apples  such  as  he  is,  this  information  should  mean  some- 
thing to  the  people  of  the  Yucaipa  district. 

Figure  11  is  of  a  young  Rome  Beauty  tree  on  the  E.  N.  Boyd  place 
near  Yucaipa,  which  illustrates  the  heavy  bearing  tendency  as  well  as 
the  young  age  at  which  they  come  into  bearing. 

No  doubt  there  are  other  places  in  the  mountain  sections,  away  from 
the  coast  especially,  where  this  variety  will  do  well. 


APPLE   GROWING   IN   CALIFORNIA. 


25 


RHODE    ISLAND    GREENING. 

This  old  New  England  variety  has  been  found  doing  well  in  Humboldt 
County,  and  again  in  the  extreme  southern  part  of  the  state  in  San 
Diego  County.  The  quality  of  this  apple  is  good  and  it  keeps  well  in 
storage. 

The  trees  are  strong  and  vigorous  and  are  seemingly  productive  where 
grown  in  the  state. 

ESOPUS.3 

This  excellent  apple  has  not  been  known  to  reach  the  high  degree 
of  perfection  in  California  that  it  does  in  the  Northwest,  although  it 
does  pretty  well  in  some  places.  The  good  keeping  qualities  and  excel- 


esap  tree  bearing  heavily  in  Tehama  County.     (Photograph  by 
C.  B.  Weeks) 

lence  in  general  commend  it  to  a  great  many  people  and  it  finds  a 
ready  sale  in  our  markets. 

In  California  it  is  generally  subject  to  scab  and  aphis,  the  trees  them- 
selves being  moderately  healthy.  There  are  a  few  people  in  the  state 
who  will  recommend  it,  and  there  may  be  some  favorable  localities  where 
it  will  do  well. 

STAYMAN    WINESAP. 

The  Stayman  is  a  seedling  of  the  old  Winesap,  which  attains  a  greater 
size,  but  not  quite  such  a  good  color.  The  quality  is  probably  a  little 
inferior  to  that  of  its  parent.  The  keeping  qualities  of  the  two  are 
about  equal,  both  being  in  season  about  January  first  and  lasting 

*Spitzenberg. 


26 


APPLE    GROWING   IN    CALIFORNIA. 


through  the  winter.  At  present  it  is  not  grown  extensively,  but  is  a 
very  promising  variety,  especially  in  the  apple  sections  of  San  Bernar- 
dino, Tehama  and  Kiverside  counties.  Figure  12  shows  a  tree  in  Tehama 
County  bearing  heavily. 

The*  trees  are  usually  as  thrifty  as  the  regular  Winesap.     It  has  been 
rated  as  a  light  bearer,  but  may  not  be  under  California  conditions. 

WAGENER. 

Some  splendid  apples  of  this  variety  have  been  seen  in  Humboldt 
Countv,  and  the  northern  counties  to  the  south,  viz :  Mendocino,  Sonoma 


Fig.   13. — -The   Winter   Pearmain.      (Original) 

and  Napa,  also  seem  to  be  well  adapted  to  its  growth  and  development. 
At  its  best  it  is  a  nicely  colored  apple  of  excellent  quality,  and  sells  for 
a  good  price.  It  is  rather  early  and  does  not  keep  well,  but  should 
be  consumed  before  the  holidays. 

The  trees  are  small  but  heavy  bearers.  This  variety,  probably  more 
than  any  other,  has  been  used  as  a  filler  in  orchards  of  other  varieties. 
It  is  quite  subject  to  the  blight  in  some  localities,  and  is  not  considered 
to  be  a  long  lived  tree. 


APPLE   GROWING   IN   CALIFORNIA. 


27 


WINTER   PEARMAIN. 

(Fig.  13.) 

Among  the  list  of  green  colored  varieties  there  are  few  of  better 
quality  than  the  Winter  Pearmain.  This  variety  has  been  quite  ex- 
tensively planted  in  the  past  in  California  and  there  are  few  of  the 
older  orchards  where  it  can  not  be  found.  It  is  a  good  keeper  and  during 
the  holiday  season  is  in  its  prime,  though  it  keeps  well  for  a  long  time 
afterward.  On  some  of  the  lighter  soils  quite  a  little  color  is  produced, 


Fig.  14.— The  Winesap.      (Original) 

thus  adding  to  its  attractiveness  and  selling  qualities.  This  apple,  if  it 
had  a  red  skin,  would  be  much  more  popular. 

The  trees  are  exceedingly  productive  in  this  state,  in  some  places 
bearing  crops  almost  annually.  If  the  soil  is  at  all  suitable  good  growth 
takes  place,  and  if  pruning  and  thinning  are  practiced  consistently  good 
fruit  of  uniform  size  and  quality  can  be  expected. 

There  are  few  places  where  the  writer  has  been  that  this  variety  has 
not  been  found  doing  well.  In  the  mountainous  sections  of  Madera,  San 
Bernardino  and  San  Diego  counties  some  excellent  specimens  have  been 
seen,  and  in  the  Pajaro  and  Santa  Clara  valleys  it  has  been  grown,  not 
extensively,  but  always  with  uniformly  good  results.  Consequently  it  is 
recommended  for  use  ir»  practically  all  the  apple  growing  sections. 


28  APPLE    GROWING    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

WINESAP. 

(Fig.   14.) 

One  of  our  most  cosmopolitan,  as  well  as  generally  popular  varieties 
of  apple,  is  the  Winesap.  While  it  is  inclined  to  be  small  the  quality  is 
good,  the  red  color  such  as  to  attract  attention,  and  the  keeping  qualities 
of  the  best.  It  is  an  excellent  winter  variety  for  general  use,  and  when 
at  its  best  commands  a  high  price.  There  are  few  of  the  older  orchards 
in  California  where  this  variety  is  not  found,  and  it  has  been  quite 
extensively  planted  in  the  foothills  sections.  Some  remarkably  fine 
specimens  have  been  taken  in  the  Sierra  Nevada  mountains  at  an  eleva- 
tion of  about  five  thousand  feet. 

The  trees  are  inclined  to  grow  bushy  and  ordinarily  require  heavy 
pruning.  This  applies  to  old  as  well  as  young  trees.  Not  only  is  heavy 
pruning  necessary  to  keep  the  trees  in  good  shape,  but  also  to  induce  the 
apples  to  attain  a  good  size.  The  tendency  is  always  for  them  to  be  small 
on  older  trees,  unless  pruning  is  properly  done. 

In  the  coast  counties  at  low  elevations  this  variety  is  not  commonly 
planted,  and  is  only  recommended  for  the  interior  foothills  and  mountain 
sections. 

BANANA.4 

The  beautiful  blush  of  this  variety  has  made  it  a  favorite  for  planting 
in  some  sections.  Like  the  Ortley  and  Grimes  it  is  rather  delicate 
and  must  be  handled  with  great  care  in  picking  and  packing.  It  usually 
does  best  at  rather  high  altitudes,  although  some  beautiful  specimens 
which  were  grown  in  Santa  Cruz  County  were  exhibited  at  the  recent 
California  Apple  Show.  Some  fine  fruit  is  produced  in  Modoc  County. 

While  a  fairly  good  keeper  ordinarily,  it  is  at  its  best  rather  early  in 
the  season. 

The  trees  are  vigorous  when  young. -at  least,  but  are  inclined  to  be 
rather  stunted  later,  unless  grown  under  the  most  favorable  conditions. 

YELLOW     BELLFLOWER. 

(Fig.  15.) 

Probably  nowhere  else  has  the  above  variety  been  grown  so  extensively 
and  reached  such  perfection  as  in  the  Pajaro  Valley  of  this  state,  or  what 
is  better  known  as  the  Watsonville  section,  which  includes  parts  of  Santa 
Cruz  and  Monterey  counties.  The  difficulty  experienced  in  getting  red 
varieties  to  color  well  in  this  section  is  no  doubt  responsible  for  the 
extensive  planting  to  this  variety  and  also  the  commonly  grown  Yellow 
NVwtown,  another  light  colored  apple.  When  grown  on  favorable  soil 
and  when  not  picked  too  early  it  develops  a  blush  that  makes  it  very 
attractive.  It  keeps  well  until  after  the  holidays  and  is  a  general 
favorite  in  California  for  the  early  market. 

The  trees  grow  very  large  and  sturdy  and  in  California  bear  quite 
regularly  and  their  size  after  they  reach  the  age  of  fifteen  years  or  more, 
makes  it  possible  for  them  to  bear  some  very  larue  crops.  In  most  parts 
of  the  country  it  is  rated  as  a  light  bearer. 

'Winter  Jianana. 


APPLE   GROWING    IN    CALIFORNIA. 


29 


This  variety  is  recommended  for  planting  in  most  of  the  apple 
'my  sections  of  the  state,  as  it  may  be  found  doing  well  at  high  elevations, 
,is  \\.-ll  as  places  near  sea  level-  Because  of  the  fact  that  Watsonville 
has  made  a  specialty  of  this  variety  it  would  probably  not  be  good  busi- 
judgment  for  other  sections  to  plant  it  extensively,  but  it  would  be 
I  letter  for  them  to  choose  some  variety  known  to  do  well  under  their 
conditions. 


Fig.   15. — The  Yellow  Bellflower.      (Original) 

YELLOW    NEWTOWN. 
(Fig.  16.) 

Like  the  Yellow  Bellrtower  this  variety  is  exceptionally  well  adapted 
to  the  conditions  of  soil  and  climate  of  the  Pajaro  Valley,  and  there 
iva.-hes  a  high  degree  of  perfection.  These  two  varieties  constitute  by 
i'ar  the  greater  part  of  the  acreage  (about  eighty  per  cent)  planted  to 
apples  in  that  section.  The  Yellow  NVwtown  ripens  a  little  later  than 
the  Yellow  Bellflower,  is  firmer  and  a  better  keeper.  It  is  quite  a 


30 


APPLE   GROWING   IN   CALIFORNIA. 


popular  variety  for  the  export  trade  as  well  as  for  general  use.  In 
California  it  is  quite  subject  to  mildew  and  scab  and  these  diseases  often 
play  havoc  with  the  trees  and  fruit  where  nothing  is  done  to  control 
them.  Bearing  begins  reasonably  early  and  good  crops  are  the  rule 
in  the  state. 

The  trees  are  quite  large  and  thrifty  but  do  not  usually  attain  the 
size  of  the  Yellow  Bellflower. 

There  are  few  localities  where  this  variety  does  not  do  well,  and  like 
the  Yellow  Bellflower  it  is  recommended  for  planting  in  all  apple  sec- 


Fig.  16. — The  Yellow  Newtown.      (Original) 

tions  of  the  state  where  a  good  light  colored  apple  is  desired.  In 
Humboldt  and  Lassen  counties  in  the  north  and  in  San  Diego,  Riverside 
and  San  Bernardino  counties  in  the  south  fine  specimens  have  been 
collected. 

The  trees  will  stand  very  heavy  pruning,  which  becomes  a  necessity 
in  sections  where  mildew  is  bad,  as  one  of  the  best  ways  to  control  this 
disease  is  by  pruning  out  infested  twigs  as  they  appear. 


AI'IM.K    (JUoWINt;     IX    CALIFORNIA.  31 


CHAPTER  III. 

PROPAGATION  OF  THE  APPLE. 

The  work  of  propagating  apple  trees  is  usually  left  to  the  nursery- 
nwn.  although  there  is  no  good  reason  why  the  person  who  is  contem- 
plating tin'  setting  out  of  an  orchard  should  not  propagate  his  own  trees. 
In  the  past  there  has  been  frequent  and  serious  difficulty  experienced 
by  the  purchaser  of  nursery  trees  because  of  not  receiving  varieties 
ordered.  The  nurserymen  of  today,  as  a  whole,  exercise  the  greatest 
•  •an-  toward  sending  out  trees  true  to  name,  so  the  one-time  serious 
objection  to  buying  trees  from  them  has  been  largely  removed.  It  is 
true,  however,  that  many  nurserymen  are  not  careful  enough  in  the 
selection  of  the  stock  used  for  budding  or  grafting  purposes,  and  as  a 
consequence  trees  may  not  be  inherently  strong.  The  future  will  no 
doubt  demand  that  more  care  be  exercised  to  secure  buds  or  grafts  from 
trees  that  have  a  record  of  good  crop  production  to  transmit,  or  at 
least  which  they  will  surely  have  a  tendency  to  transmit  to  trees 
developed  from  them. 

SEEDLINGS. 

It  is  known  by  practically  every  one  that  the  apple,  when  grown  from 
seed,  does  not  come  true  to  the  variety.  That  is,  if  a  thousand  trees  were 
grown  from  seeds  taken  from  a  single  Jonathan  apple  tree  there  wrould 
probably  be  none  of  them  that  would  possess  many  of  the  character- 
istii-s  of  the  true  Jonathan.  This  fact  necessitates  the  propagation  of 
the  apple  by  budding  or  grafting  of  fixed  varieties  into  seedlings  grown 
for  the  purpose.  The  first  step,  then,  in  developing  trees  for  an  orchard 
is  the  growing  of  seedlings. 

AVickson  recommends  the  following  method  of  starting  apple  and  pear 
trees  from  seed: 

For  a  small  lot  of  apple  and  pear  trees  the  seed  can  be  best  sown  in  boxes. 
Select  plump  pips  and  keep  in  moist  snnd  from  the  time  they  are  taken  from  the 
fruit  until  sowing.  Fill  the  boxes,  which  should  be  three  or  four  inches  deep,  with 
-ood  garden  mold,  cover  tin-  s.-.-d  about  half  an  inch,  and  then  cover  the  soil  lightly 
with  chaff  or  tine  straw  to  pivvent.  the  surface  from  drying  out.  Be  sure  that  the 
boxes  have  crocks  or  holes  in  the  bottom  for  drainage,  and  the  whole  is  kept  moist, 
but  not  wet.  When  the  seedlings  have  grown  to  the  height  of  three  inches  they 
can  he  set  out  in  the  nursery  rows,  as  one  would  set  out  cabbage  plants. 

After  these  seedling  trees  have  attained  sufficient  growth  they  may  be 
budded  to  whatever  varieties  are  desired. 

Seeds  for  use  in  growing  trees  should  be  selected  from  good  stock,  if 
possible.  Small,  shrunken  seed  from  poor  apples  is  no  more  desirable 
than  poor  stoek  for  budding  purposes,  as  the  thrift  mess  of  the  seedling 
tree  will  very  largely  determine  the  development  and  growth  of  the  bud 
or  graft  that  is  inserted  into  it.  Seeds  are  usually  obtained  from  the 
pomace  of  cider  mills.  As  such  seeds  from  our  American  mills  ordi- 
narily possess  nothing  of  uniformity  in  their  makeup,  a  good  stand  of 
thrifty  seedlings  can  scarcely  be  expected  when  grown  from  them.  The 
!>est  seedling  are  those  grown  from  the  wild  crabs  of  France,  and  most 


32 


APPLE   GROWING   IN   CALIFORNIA. 


of  our  nurserymen  make  a  practice  of  buying  either  seedlings  or  seed 
from  this  French  stock,  which  appears  to  have  little  value  except  for 
cider  and  seeds. 

BUDDING. 

The  budded  apple  tree  is  now  generally  preferred  to  the  root  grafted 
tree.  The  operation  of  budding  is  really  more  simple  than  grafting, 
the  union  of  bud  with  stock  is  usually  better  than  in  the  case  of  the 
graft,  and  the  trees  are  believed  to  be  less  liable  to  attack  by  crown  gall. 
For  these  as  well  as  other  reasons  propagation  by  budding  is  prac- 
ticed by  most  of  our  best  nurserymen. 

Budding  can  best  be  done  in  California  in  August  and  September, 
in  which  case  the  inserted  bud  unites  with  the  seedling  stem  and  remains 


Fig.  17. — "Preparing  the  stock  to  receive  the  bud."      (After  Lelong) 

dormant  throughout  the  winter  season,  making  no  growth  until  the 
spring.  At  this  time  the  top  of  the  tree  should  be  removed,  cutting  just 
above  the  bud.  The  well  established  root  system  of  the  seedling  will 
feed  the  new  bud  abundantly,  and  a  rapid  growth  should  take  place, 
developing  a  satisfactory  size  of  top  for  planting  in  one  season. 

Bud  wood  should  be  selected  from  bearing  trees  which  have  produced 
satisfactory  crops,  and  only  strong,  healthy  buds  should  be  used.  The 
practice  of  using  bud  sticks  from  young  trees  which  have  never  borne, 
because  of  the  convenience  of  securing  them  at  the  time  of  pruning, 
cannot  result  in  the  development  of  the  best  kind  of  nursery  stock.  In 
practically  every  orchard  there  are  certain  trees  that  have  produced 
big  crops  of  fruit  year  after  year  with  scarcely  a  failure,  while  the 
average  trees  have  not  done  nearly  so  well.  Such  heavy  producing 


(JRnNVIN.i     IN     CAM  K<  >RN  I.\. 


Fig.    18.— "Cutting  the  buds  from  the  scion. 
(After  Lelong) 


Fig.    19. — "Showing  bud   inserted  and  the  wrappings.      In  some  oases  a  few  limbs  are 
left  to  promote  vigor."     (After  Lelong) 


::  —13683 


34  APPLE   GROWING   IN   CALIFORNIA. 

trees,  other  characteristics  being  desirable  also,  should  be  the  ones  from 
which  buds  are  taken.  The  orchardist  usually  has  a  better  chance  to 
utilize  such  trees  than  the  nurseryman.  The  limited  number  of  trees 
that  he  would  need  for  his  own  use  often  makes  it  possible  for  him  to 
secure  bud  wood  from  only  one  tree,  which  possesses  more  desirable 
characteristics  of  its  kind  than  any  other  with  which  he  is  familiar.  The 
wide  breach  between  the  quantity  of  fruit  represented  by  the  maximum 
producing  trees  of  an  orchard  and  the  minimum,  or  even  average  pro- 
ducers, can  never  be  greatly  lessened  until  more  careful  attention  is 
given  to  the  selection  of  buds  for  propagating  purposes. 

The  budding  operation  is  quite  simple  and  is  well  illustrated  in  Figs. 
17,  18  and  19,  after  Lelong.  These  illustrations  were  made  for  use  in 
a  citrus  publication,  but  as  the  operation  with  apples  is  similar,  they 
serve  the  purpose  in  this  book  equally  as  well. 

In  the  nursery  an  expert  budder  merely  inserts  the  buds,  the  tying 
being  done  by  some  one  else  who  immediately  follows  him.  Either 
cotton  twine  or  fibre  from  palm  leaves,  known  as  raffia,  is  used  for 
holding  the  buds  in  place.  As  much  care,  if  not  more,  is  necessary  in 
the  tying  of  the  bud  as  in  placing  it  beneath  the  bark.  The  tying  should 
be  tightly  done,  thus  binding  the  bud  firmly  to  the  stem  and  greatly 
facilitating  its  starting. 

ROOT-GRAFTING. 

This  operation  is  accomplished  by  the  use  of  seedling  roots,  whole  or 
in  part,  to  which  bud  wood  of  the  desired  variety  is  united.  In  the  past 
this  has  been  a  very  popular  method  of  propagating  nursery  apple  trees, 
but  has  been  very  largely  superseded  by  budding,  for  reasons  already 
given.  Such  grafts  are  usually  made  during  the  dormant  season,  and 
kept  in  wet  sand  or  other  suitable  material  until  setting  time  in  the 
spring. 


APPLE   GROWING   IN    CALIFORNIA.  35 

CHAPTER  IV. 

SELECTION  OF  TREES  FOR  PLANTING. 

Which  varieties  are  selected  should  depend,  first,  upon  their  adap- 
•  at  ion  to  the  conditions  existing  where  they  are  to  be  planted,  and, 
secondly,  upon  whether  they  are  to  be  used  for  commercial  purposes  or 
for  a  home  orchard.  If  the  orchard  is  planted  for  commercial  reasons — 
and  that  is  really  all  that  need  concern  us  in  this  article — only  a  very 
1V\\  varieties  should  be  secured.  What  these  shall  be  should  be  deter- 
mined by  careful  observations  of  profitable  trees  in  nearby  orchards 
in  a  section,  if  older  orchards  can  be  found  where  information  is  easily 
obtainable;  if  not,  similar  conditions  elsewhere  may  serve  as  a  guide, 
but  in  this  case  the  value  of  whatever  varieties  are  planted  will  have 
to  be  largely  determined  by  experiment.  Every  older  apple  section 
has  passed  through  this  experimental  period,  and,  as  a  consequence,  we 
find  in  our  state  many  old  orchards  of  a  miscellaneous  lot  of  varieties, 
some  good  and  some  bad.  Such  orchards  very  often  do  not  have  enough 
good  trees  in  them  to  justify  their  existence  on  the  ground  they  occupy. 
It  is  always  a  good  plan  to  go  slow  with  the  testing  out  of  new  varieties. 
The  nursery  agent  who  understands  his  business  as  a  salesman  very 
often  has  no  trouble  in  persuading  people  to  buy  varieties  that,  while 
they  may  be  good,  have  never  been  tried  out  in  the  section,  and  should 
not  form  the  major  part  of  a  new  orchard.  To  test  them  out  in  a  small 
\\ay  by  planting  only  a  few,  until  they  are  known  to  do  well,  is  a  com- 
mendable thing.  Practically  every  apple  section  of  any  consequence  in 
( 'alifornia  has  growing  in  it  some  well  adapted  varieties  that  have  pro- 

<  In <-ed  fine  crops  year  after  year.     A  few  of  such  varieties,  preferably 
not  more  than  three,  should  be  selected  by  the  prospective  grower.     Suc- 

\vill  come  to  a  section  when  it  can  produce,  in  quantities,  some 
variety  or  some  few  varieties  of  prime  fruit  better  than  any  other  sec- 
i  inn  can  produce  them.  An  illustration  of  this  may  be  found  in  the  fine 

<  iravi-nsteins  of  the  Sebastopol  section  of  Sonoma  County,  or  the  Yellow 
Bellflowers  or  Yellow  Xewtowns  of  the  Watsonville  section  of  Santa 
( 'ruz  County.     With  a  miscellaneous  lot  of  varieties,  and  no  great  quan- 
tity  of  any  one,  these  famous  apple  regions  would  never  have  gained 
their  reputation.     In  the  mountainous  parts  of  the  state,  especially  that 
port  ion  occupied  by  the  Sierra  Nevada  range,  may  be  found  a  great 
many  other  equally  good  varieties,  such  as  Jonathan,  Rome  Beauty, 
Esopus,  Winesap,  Delicious,  Winter  Pearmain,  Baldwin,  Northern  Spy, 
Maiden  Blush  and  Ortley,  any  one  of  which,  if  grown  extensively  and 
handled  well,  should  make  a  reputation  for  its  section,  as  the  previously 
mentioned  varieties  have  done  for  Sebastopol  and  Watsonville. 

Some  varieties  are  more  or  less  self-sterile,  and  unless  interplanted 
with  other  varieties  as  pollinizers  they  may  fail  to  produce  well,  if  at  all. 
With  the  limited  amount  of  scientifically  accurate  work  that  has  been 
done  along  this  line,  it  is  impossible  to  say  just  which  varieties  are  self- 
fertile  and  will  do  well  when  planted  alone.  It  is  safe  to  say  that  large 
blocks  of  any  variety  should  not  be  planted,  for  even  though  they  may 
be  self-fertile  the  effect  of  cross-pollination  would  undoubtedly  be  good. 


APPLE    GROWING    IN    CALIFORNIA. 


The  following  table,  prepared  and  published  by  Frederick  Maskew,5 
shows  the  wide  variation  in  time  of  blooming  of  a  number  of  different 
varieties,  something  which  should  be  taken  into  consideration  when 
selecting  two  or  more  with  the  idea  of  getting  the  best  results  in  cross- 
pollination. 


First  bloom 


Full  bloom 


Winter   Pearmain    April  llth 

Red  Astrachan - April  17th 

Yellow  Bellflower  April  20th 

Fall  Pippin  April  20th 

Rhode    Island    Greening April  20th 

Kentucky  Red  Streak April  20th 

Early   Harvest    April  21st 

Shockley   1 April  27th 

Fameuse    April  27th 

Ben  Davis April  29th 

Winesap '. May     5th 

Yellow    Transparent    May     r>th 

None-such  May     7th 

Missouri   Pippin   May  10th 

Alexander  _.  May  15th 

Smith     i May  15th 

Transcendent    Crabs    May  30th 

Hyslop   Crabs   - .' i April  llth 

Montreal   Crabs   .. April  16th 


Jenenil  fall 
of  bloom 


April  27th 

May     5th 

April  30th 

May  12th 

April  30th 

May  Kith 

May     5th 

May  15tli 

May     5th 

May  15th 

May  10th 

May  20th 

May    6th 

May  12th 

May  15th 

May  20th 

May  15th 

May  22d 

May  15th 

May  23<I 

May  17th 

June    1st 

May  16th 

June    1st 

May  Kith 

June    1st 

May  20th 

June    1st 

May  25th 

June    1st 

May  25th 

June    (itli 

April    7th 

April  22d 

April  22d 

April  30th 

April  24th 

May     7th 

DEMAND   THE    BEST. 

Having  selected  suitable  varieties  only  the  best  trees  should  be  con- 
sidered for  planting.  Generally  speaking,  a  cheap  tree  is  a  poor  tree.  In 
any  nursery  there  are  a  certain  number  of  trees  which  have  never  made  a 
good  growth  and  which  on  being  dug  are  sorted  out  as  low  grade  trees 
and  sold  for  a  lower  figure  than  those  which  have  been  thrifty.  Fre- 
quently these  stunted  trees  never  develop  into  first-class  trees,  no  matter 
how  great  care  they  may  receive.  Trees  possess  an  individuality  which 
must  be  taken  into  consideration.  Often  being  grown  from  buds  selected 
miscellaneously,  it  is  to  be  expected  that  there  will  be  considerable  varia- 
tion in  their  size,  hardiness  and  habits  of  growth.  While  it  may  be 
possible  to  build  a  fairly  good  tree  from  one  which  possesses  many 
undesirable  characteristics,  yet  it  is  much  safer  to  choose  the  very  best, 
which  are  likely  to  be  inherently  strong,  and  which  will  consequently 
respond  readily  to  good  treatment. 

AGE  OF  TREE  TO   PLANT. 

All  things  considered,  the  best  apple  tree  to  buy  is  the  one  year  old 
whip.  Such  a  tree  has  a  three  year  old  root  system — two  years'  growth 
as  a  seedling,  and  the  third  as  a  budded  tree.  Thus  the  top  is  only 
one  year  of  age  when  the  roots  are  three,  and  all  the  plant  food  which 
they  take  up  is  utilized  in  developing  this  one  year  old  top,  which 
normally  makes  a  thrifty  and  healthy  growth  with  little  or  no  branching. 
When  set,  trees  of  this  kind  should  throw  out  branches  in  abundance 
throughout  the  entire  length  of  the  trunk,  a  very  desirable  thing,  as  a 
certain  type  of  head  being  wanted  there  will  be  no  trouble  in  selecting 
branches  to  conform  to  that  type,  and  uniformity  may  be  attained  in  the 

•Apple  culture   in   Los  Angeles  County. 


APPLK    GROWING   IN    CALIFORNIA.  37 

heading  of  an  orchard.  In  the  case  of  the  two  year  old  tree  it  is  usually 
headed  a  certain  height  in  the  nursery  row,  generally  higher  than  is 
desirable  for  the  on-hard  tree,  and  uniformity  of  heading  is  exceedingly 
difficult  to  secure.  Sometimes  such  trees  when  set  are  denuded  of 
branches,  a  mere  whip  being  left,  hut  when  this  is  done  they  do  not 
make  as  much  lateral  growth  as  the  one  year  old  tree,  and  it  may  be 
very  difficult  to  select  branches  of  the  right  height  and  properly  spaced 
for  the  best  type  of  head. 

FREEDOM    FROM    DISEASE  AND   INSECT   PESTS. 

Thanks  to  the  very  careful  inspection  work  in  California,  under  the 
direction  of  the  county  horticultural  commissioners,  trees  are  usually 
quite  free  from  recognizable  diseases  and  insect  pests,  when  they  are  set. 
Trees  infested  with  such  diseases  as  crown  gall  and  such  insect  pests 
as  woolly  aphis  are  seldom  planted.  Our  inspection  system,  while 
far  from  being  perfect,  has  not  only  been  successful  in  the  detection 
of  disease  and  insect  pests,  but  it  has  also  resulted  in  greater  care 
being  exercised  by  the  grower  of  nursery  trees,  that  they  be  clean.  It  is 
not  always  possible  for  the  inspector  to  detect  crown  gall  in  its  first 
Ktages,  but  the  fact  that  he  is  always  looking  for  it  and  destroying  trees 
upon  which  it  is  found,  has  made  the  nurseryman  realize  his  obligation 
relative  to  this  trouble,  and  as  a  consequence  trees  are  not  grown  on  land 
after  it  becomes  thoroughly  infected  with  the  disease,  as  they  were  at  one 
time.  This  illustration  is  one  of  many  which  might  be  given  to  show 
that  tlie  tendency  nowadays  is  toward  better  stock,  as  far  as  insect 
pests  and  diseases  are  concerned.  It  is  of  the  utmost  importance  for 
new  sections  to  plant  clean  trees,  as  by  so  doing  many  years  may  elapse 
before  some  of  the  very  common  troubles  will  find  their  way  into 
orchards  of  the  section. 

The  very  great  distribution  of  the  woolly  aphis  is  no  doubt  due  largely 
to  the  fact  that  it  has  been  planted  with  the  nursery  tree.  With  our 
modern  methods  of  inspection  and  fumigation  the  chances  of  living 
aphids  being  on  the  roots  when  trees  are  set  may  and  should  be  reduced 
to  the  minimum.  Preventive  measures  of  a  simple  nature  may  mean 
freedom  from  such  pests  for  years,  and  consequent  healthiness  of  trees, 
while  inattention  to  such  may  mean  large  sums  of  money  and  much  time 
expended  in  spraying,  etc..  with  the  result  of  possible  control  by  a 
diminution  of  the  pest,  but  never  eradication. 

The  inspection  work  to  secure  this  freedom  from  insects  and  disease 
should  leceive  the  encouragement  of  every  one  interested  in  fruit  grow- 
ing, not  merely  because  the  inspector  may  he  able  to  detect  pests,  but 
also  because  of  the  fact  that  his  efforts  will  mean  a  greater  effort  on 
the  part  of  the  nurseryman,  which,  after  all.  means  more  than  the 
inspection  after  the  stock  is  grown.  There  are  places,  to  the  writer's 
knowledge,  where  inspection  work  is  not  done,  which  have  been  made 
dumping  grounds  by  unreliable  nurserymen  for  their  undesirable  stock. 


38  APPLE    GROWING    IN    CALIFORNIA. 


CHAPTER  V. 

SOILS  AND  THEIR  PREPARATION  FOR  PLANTING. 

Apple  trees  require  good,  deep,  well  drained  soils,  preferably  of  a 
somewhat  light  clayey  loam.  No  definite  rule  can  be  laid  down  as  to 
the  particular  kind  of  soil  for  them.  Many  splendid  orchards  may  be 
found  growing  on  light,  sandy  river  bottom  soils,  while  others  have  done 
equally  as  well  on  quite  heavy  clay,  even  of  the  type  which  we  speak  of 
as  adobe.  Generally  speaking,  however,  the  very  heavy  and  very  light 
soils  should  be  avoided.  In  California  the  brown  or  red  mesa  soils  of 
the  foothill  sections  along  the  Sierras,  where  they  possess  sufficient 
depth,  grow  fine  trees.  Back  in  the  mountains  proper,  at  high  altitudes 
may  be  found  a  black  loam,  very  moist  and  full  of  humus,  which  is 
admirably  adapted  to  the  growth  of  apples.  The  coast  section,  includ- 
ing Santa  Cruz  and  Sonoma  counties,  has  a  variety  of  soils,  ranging 
from  light  sand  to  stiff  clay,  and  a  number  of  types  are  known  to  pro- 
duce excellent  trees  and  fruit.  Poor  soils  of  any  kind  are  not  good  for 
apples,  and  trees  should  never  be  set  out  on  land  which  is  too  poor  for 
other  crops.  Hardpan  lands  should  be  avoided.  A  layer  of  gypsum, 
marl,  or  heavy  clay  within  three  feet  of  the  surface  is  not  desirable; 
neither  should  soils  be  chosen  where  water  stands  within  three  feet  of 
the  surface  at  any  time  during  the  season.  In  such  cases  alkalies  are 
very  apt  to  become  bad.  While  trees  may  grow  fairly  well  for  a  number 
of  years  with  hardpan  or  water  close  to  the  surface,  sooner  or  later  they 
are  sure  to  show  signs  of  trouble.  This  may  manifest  itself  as  small, 
yellow,  sickly  foliage,  sparse  growth,  or  as  a  mass  of  foliage  toward  tips 
of  twigs,  or  some  other  condition  indicating  starvation.  The  healthiest 
trees,  generally  speaking,  are  those  which  root  the  deepest,  and  all  con- 
ditions unfavorable  to  deep  rooting  should  be  avoided  as  much  as 
possible. 

Varieties  developed  to  perfection  on  a  certain  type  of  soil  would 
naturally  be  expected  to  do  best  on  similar  soils  elsewhere.  This  is  a 
phase  of  the  question  that  has  not  been  given  much  attention  in  the 
past,  but  one  which  no  doubt  will  receive  more  consideration  in  the 
future.  Prof.  J.  W.  Nelson  of  the  University  of  California,  -in  an 
address  before  the  State  Fruit  Growers'  Convention  at  Davis,  in  June, 
1914,  on  the  "Fruit  Soils  of  the  Great  Interior  Valley,"  touched  upon 
this  subject  and  gave  some  striking  illustrations  of  the  truth  that 
varieties  do  best  on  similar  soils  in  different  sections  and  made  the  fol- 
lowing statement:  "In  our  studies  in  this  state,  and  elsewhere  in  the 
United  States,  we  have  observed  that  each  kind  of  fruit,  like  other  crops, 
has  a  soil  and  climatic  environment  in  which  it  reaches  its  greatest  per- 
fection, and  when  grown  on  a  type  differing  greatly  from  that  to  which 
the  variety  had  adjusted  its  functions  of  growth,  failure  frequently 
results  and  one  or  more  of  the  essential  qualities  is  missing  or  is  replaced 
by  other  inferior  or  superior  ones.  So  if  we  have  a  desirable  variety, 
possessing  qualities  which  we  wish  to  retain,  we  must  grow  the  variety 
in  a  soil  and  climate  like  or  nearly  like  those  in  which  it  obtained  its 


APPLE   GROWING   IN    CALIFORNIA.  39 

desirable  qualities. ' '  This  is  illustrated  nicely  by  Mr.  Nelson,  in  the  case 
of  certain  varieties  of  strawberries  grown  in  Delaware,  in  the  following 
words : 

"Two  soil  types  were  present,  namely:  the  Norfolk  sandy  loam  and 
the  Portsmouth  sandy  loam.  The  former  is  a  well  drained  brown  soil, 
moderate  to  low  in  humus,  quickly  warmed  up  in  springtime,  and 
occupies  a  position  from  one  to  several  feet  higher  than  the  latter.  The 
Portsmouth  sandy  loam  is  a  low,  damp,  cool,  black  soil,  very  high  in 
humus.  The  Gandy  berry  thrives  and  develops  unusually  desirable 
qualities  on  this  soil,  but  becomes  a  miserable  failure  on  the  Norfolk 
soil.  The  Parson's  Beauty,  Chesapeake,  and  one  or  two  other  varieties 
reach  *rreat  perfection  on  the  well  drained,  warm,  moderately  fertile 
Norfolk  soil,  but  fail  on  the  low,  damp,  cool  Portsmouth  type. 

"Farmers  did  not  know  the  cause  for  this  and  kept  on  trying  to  grow 
the  Gandy,  a  most  attractive  market  variety,  on  the  Norfolk  sandy  loam 
and  thousands  of  dollars  were  lost  every  year  for  years  in  this  attempt 
alone.  After  a  careful  observation  of  the  soils  present  it  was  decided  to 
trace  out  the  origin  of  the  Gandy  variety  and  see,  if  possible,  why  it  was 
so  partial  to  a  certain  kind  of  soil  and  so  sensitive  to  others.  After  some 
time  the  variety  was  traced  to  New  Jersey,  and  it  was  discovered  that 
the  first  seedling  had  originated  on  the  same  type  of  soil  on  which  it  was 
thriving  in  Delaware." 

This  striking  illustration  will  no  doubt  apply  to  apples  equally  as 
well  as  to  strawberries. 

PREVIOUS    CROPPING. 

Many  fine  orchards  are  growing  on  soil  which  was  virgin  at  the  time 
1  hey  were  planted.  It  is  equally  true  that  many  failures  may  be  traced 
to  lack  of  preparation  of  the  soil  for  trees.  It  is  safe  to  say  that 
•Topping  previous  to  setting  trees  in  order  to  better  prepare  the  ground 
is  always  best.  There  is  no  better  crop  to  grow  previous  to  planting 
-  than  alfalfa.  Our  arid,  western  soils  are  usually  low  in  nitrogen, 
which  may  be  supplied,  in  abundance  by  alfalfa.  This  crop,  because  of 
its  root  system,  prepares  the  soil  for  tree  roots  better,  probably,  than 
anything  else  that  can  be  grown.  Trees  set  on  alfalfa  ground  usually 
make  a  very  quick  and  healthy  growth.  The  writer  has  sometimes 
advised  the  cropping  of  land  in  alfalfa  for  a  couple  of  years  before 
planting  apples,  rather  than  gain  two  years  in  the  growth  of  trees  by 
puttinjr  out  the  orchard  at  once.  The  gain  in  time  may  be  completely 
compensated  for  iu  a  few  years  by  the  extra  growth  and  productiveness 
of  the  trees  following  alfalfa.  Other  legumes,  e.  g.,  peas,  beans,  vetches 
and  the  clovers  may  be  used  to  advantage  in  preparing  the  soil  for  trees, 
hut  none  of  these  possess  the  merits  of  the  deeply  rooted  alfalfa. 

LEVELING. 

Many  an  orchardist  has  experienced  much  difficulty  in  irrigating  his 
orchard,  because  of  inattention  to  leveling  the  land  before  the  trees 
were  planted.  A  scraper  is  very  often  necessary  for  use  in  cutting 
down  high  places  and  filling  in  low.  When  the  land  has  been  made 
approximately  level  by  the  use  of  the  scraper,  it  should  be  dragged  or 
leveled  by  means  of  a  common  frame,  field  drag  or  some  other  suitable 


40  APPLE    GROWING    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

implement  made  for  the  purpose.  After  the  leveling  is  done  harrowing 
to  break  up  all  clods  should  not  be  neglected.  Moisture  may  be  con- 
served much  better  if  a  fine  dust  mulch  can  be  made  on  the  surface  of 
the  soil,  and  a  disc  harrow,  cultivator,  common  harrow  or  any  other  im- 
plement which  will  best  make  the  mulch  should  be  used.  It  should  be 
remembered  that  a  smooth  surface  such  as  might  be  secured  by  rolling 
the  soil  will  lose  moisture  much  more  quickly  than  a  surface  broken 
up  by  the  harrow  or  other  cultivating  tool. 

PLOWING. 

It  seems  hardly  necessary  to  say  that  ground  should  always  be  well 
plowed  before  trees  are  set  out,  for  nearly  every  one  realizes  the  import- 
ance of  this  operation.  It  has  already  been  said  that  a  deep  root  system 
is  advantageous,  and  for  this  reason,  if  for  no  other,  soil  should  be 
plowed  deeply  to  better  insure  such  deep  rooting.  Not  only  should  this 
deep  plowing  be  practiced  previous  to  setting  the  trees,  but  frequently 
afterwards.  In  general  it  may  be  said  that  an  orchard  should  be 
plowed  once  a  year  and  always  to  a  good  depth,  so  that  the  soil  may  be 
loosened  sufficiently  to  induce  deep  rooting  of  the  trees.  Plowing  in 
preparation  for  planting  is  often  very  carelessly  done  because  of  the 
fact  that  holes  of  a  considerable  size  and  depth  are  dug  for  the  trees  and 
it  is  not  considered  that  careful  plowing  is  necessary.  In  our  arid 
sections  where  the  rainfall  is  light — where  there  may  be  little  or  no 
water  for  irrigation  during  the  dry  season  and  as  a  consequence  it  is 
necessary  to  conserve  all  the  moisture  possible — the  plowing  operation 
should  never  be  slighted  in  any  way. 

HOW   TO    DETERMINE    NUMBERS   OF   TREES    PER   ACRE. 

Any  one  desiring  to  find  out  how  many  trees  can  be  planted  per  acre, 
at  given  distances  apart,  can  do  so  by  multiplying  these  distances  in  feet 
and  dividing  43,560,  which  is  the  number  of  square  feet  in  an  acre  by 
the  product.  For  example,  it  is  desired  to  plant  an  orchard  on  the 
square  30  by  30  feet;  the  product  of  these  two  distances  is  900,  and 
43,560  divided  by  900  equals  48,  the  number  of  trees  that  can  be  planted 
per  acre  at  this  distance.  If  the  hexagonal  system  of  planting  is  to  be 
used  the  number  may  be  determined  by  adding  to  this  number  fifteen 
per  cent  of  itself.  For  example,  48  times  .15  equals  7  plus,  which  added 
to  48  equals  55  plus.  Similarly  any  other  distances  being  known  the 
number  of  trees  per  acre  may  be  determined. 

SYSTEMS   FOR    PLANTING. 

The  different  systems  for  planting  trees  are  well  illustrated  in  the 
accompanying  figures,  numbers  20,  21,  22  and  23.  There  are  four  of 
them  in  all,  and  they  are  known  as  the  square,  triangular,  quincunx  and 
hexagonal  methods.  The  first  and  last  are  generally  used,  the  hex- 
agonal having  the  advantage  of  allowing  fifteen  per  cent  more  trees  in 
a  given  area.  A  very  common  fault  in  the  planting  of  our  older  apple 
orchards  was  the  setting  of  too  many  trees  per  acre.  Crowding,  after 
a  few  years'  growth,  has  as  a  consequence  taken  place,  to  the  serious 
detriment  of  the  crop  and  to  the  disadvantage  of  cultivation,  picking 
and  other  orchard  operations.  Most  varieties  of  apples  should  be 


APPLE    CKnWIN.,     IN    CALIFORNIA. 


41 


le... 

i 


U. U 


_  ..... 


.  ......  ........  .,.... 

*t-     4-     4      '4. 
*.%.&.     4. 

<L   a.   4.   4. 


Fig.   20. — "The  square  system. 
(After  Lelong) 


i  H.  ;H  i' 

L  .........  _L...1;L 


... 
1    4. 


4.    4.    ^L   4. 


%.-.4L'."4i.  '4L 


••••- 


I'll.-  <|iiinrun\  s\ 
After  Lelong) 


•%.    '4     4. 


•L. 


4,  -4=.   4- 


Fig.   21. — "The  triangular  or  alternating 
syptf-m."      '  After  Lelong) 


,...  I.  ....>. 
"       '' 


-K 

I      -.'-I 
V 


U      U   *''U      U%' 


.U    ...U  . 
....k  ..... 


-i.  ^ 


:.:.— "The     hoxagonal     system. 
(After  Lelong) 


42 


APPLE   GROWING   IN   CALIFORNIA. 


planted  about  thirty  feet  apart.  This  distance  gives  ample  room  for 
all  the  work  that  must  necessarily  be  done  in  the  orchard,  and  if  prun- 
ing is  properly  done  there  should  never  be  any  serious  trouble  from 
crowding.  Fig.  24  is  a  young  apple  orchard  at  Tehachapi  planted 
30  x  30  square  system,  which  has  been  well  laid  out.  By  setting  this 
distance  apart  there  would  be  forty-eight  trees  to  the  acre.  If  the 
hexagonal  system  were  used  there  would  be  fifteen  per  cent  more  trees, 
or  fifty-five  to  the  acre,  with  no  two  trees  closer  together  than  thirty 
feet  in  this  case,  the  distance  between  the  rows  being  only  twenty- 
six  feet.  This  method  of  setting  is  quite  popular  because  of  the  extra 
number  of  trees  that  can  be  planted  without  crowding.  It  possesses 
the  disadvantage  of  leaving  less  room  between  the  rows  for  cultivating 
and  hauling  fruit. 

DIGGING   HOLES. 

Holes  should  be  large  enough  so  that  roots  may  be  set  with  their 
natural  spread  and  not   crowded   and   twisted  together  into   a  small 


Fig.  24. — A  young  apple  orchard  at  Tehachapi.      (Original) 

space.  Sometimes  the  difficulty  of  digging  holes  is  responsible  for  such 
a  condition  of  crowding,  but  trees  had  better  not  be  set  unless  the  root 
system  can  have  a  fair  show  from  the  start.  The  soil  at  the  bottom  of 
the  holes  should  be  loosened  to  a  considerable  depth  to  facilitate  deep 
rooting,  and  to  enable  the  root  system,  which  is  always  more  or  less  dam- 
aged when  taken  from  the  nursery,  to  get  a  new  start  quickly. 

It  is  now  quite  a  general  practice  to  use  dynamite  in  loosening  the  soil, 
especially  where  hardpan  exists.  There  is  often  much  to  be  gained  by 
its  use,  but  care  should  be  exercised  to  avoid  packing  and  the  consequent 
defeat  of  the  object  for  which  it  was  employed.  Dynamiting  should  only 
be  done,  in  heavy  soils  with  a  tendency  to  run  together,  at  least,  when 
they  are  dry.  If  moist  there  may  be  a  packing  or  cementing,  which  is 


APPLE   GROWING   IN   CALIFORNIA.  43 

decidedly  bad.     The  post  bar  and  shovel  may  do  the  work  as  well  as 
dynamite  and  are  safer  if  the  soil  is  wet. 

LAYING    OUT    LAND. 

The  establishment  of  points  for  the  setting  of  trees  may  be  con- 
veniently done  with  a  surveyor's  level  or  transit.  If  such  instru- 
ments are  not  available  accurate  results  may  be  attained  by  sighting  to 
stakes  with  the  eye.  Difficulty  sometimes  arises  because  of  irregularly 
shaped  tracts,  but  in  such  cases  it  is  only  necessary  to  establish  straight 
lines  as  guides  in  laying  out  the  main  tract  and  filling  in  angular  pieces 
afterwards.  By  establishing  such  lines  a  rectangular  tract  may  be  laid 
off,  the  boundaries  of  opposite  sides  being  marked  by  stakes  of  a  con- 
venient size  and  color  so  that  they  may  be  easily  seen,  and  defining 
accurately  the  distance  between  the  trees  or  rows.  A  line  of  stakes  set 
the  same  distance  apart  should  be  run  parallel  to  one  of  these  boundary 
lines  somewhere  near  the  middle  of  the  field.  These  three  being  deter- 
mined, points  in  between  to  locate  position  of  trees  can  be  accurately 
placed  also,  and  by  sighting  in  two  directions  at  right  angles  to  each 
other,  there  should  be  little  chance  of  serious  errors  in  alignment.  If, 
instead  of  the  square  method  of  planting,  the  hexagonal  is  to  be  used,  it 
would  be  necessary  to  establish  twice  as  many  points  on  the  boundary 
and  in  the  line  parallel  to  same  to  determine  the  position  of  the  trees  in 
alternate  rows. 


APPLE    GROWING   IN    CALIFORNIA. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

SETTING  AND  CARING  FOR  THE  YOUNG  TREES. 

The  tract  of  land  to  be  planted  being-  laid  out  with  stakes  to  mark 
the  position  of  each  tree,  it  is  next  necessary  to  have  some  way  of 
determining  the  position  of  a  tree  where  the  stake  stood  after  its 

removal  in  the  digging-  of 
the  hole.  A  simple  but 
satisfactory  apparatus  for 
doing  this  is  shown  in 
Fig.  25. 

This  is  placed  against 
the  stake  at  the  point  a, 
pins  are  then  driven 
through  the  holes  at  h  and 
7/1,  thus  securely  fastening 
the  frame  to  the  ground. 
The  portion  in  front  of 
hinges  is  now  thrown  back 
and  the  hole  dug.  After- 
wards the  front  and  main 
portion  of  the  frame  is 
again  moved  forward  over 
the  hole  and  the  tree  placed 
in  the  crotch  at  point  a, 

which  corresponds  exactly  to  the  place  where  stake  originally  stood. 
With  such  an  apparatus  great  accuracy  may  be  attained.  The  hinges 
shown  in  figure  are  not  a  necessity  as  such  an  apparatus  may  be  made 
without,  but  is  less  convenient  as  it  must  be  removed  from  stakes  en- 
tirely, while  holes  are  being  dug.  A  straight  piece  of  board  with  notch 
in  center  and  holes  or  notches  at  each  end  for  the  stakes  is  frequently 
used. 


Fig.   25. — A   simple  apparatus  used   in   setting- 
trees.      (Original) 


DEPTH   TO   PLANT. 

The  rule  is  to  plant  trees  in  the  orchard  slightly  deeper  than  they 
grew  in  the  nursery,  or  in  other  words,  the  bud  union  should  be  at  the 
surface  of  the  ground  when  the  tree  is  set.  The  depth  of  planting  may 
be  varied  slightly  without  any  apparent  detriment  to  the  growth  of 
the  trees,  but  all  things  being  considered  there  is  probably  no  better 
depth  than  is  indicated  by  the  bud  union  at  the  ground  line,  and  care 
must  be  taken  not  to  plant  too  deep  as  such  may  result  in  the  death  of 
the  trees. 

FILLING   IN  THE  HOLE. 

The  tree  being  placed  in  the  hole  at  the  proper  depth,  and  the  roots 
being  spread  naturally,  the  soil  is  now  carefully  packed  about  them. 
The  entire  space  about  the  crown  should  be  closely  filled  with  soil, 
and  the  careful  planter  will  use  his  hands  in  doing  this  work.  After 
the  roots  have  been  properly  cared  for,  the  shovel  is  used  to  fill  in  the 


Al'IM.K    UKM\VI.\<,     IN     r  \UKnKNIA.  45 

rest  of  tlic  holt1.  It  is  always  well  to  pour  a  bucket  of  water  into  the 
hole  before  it  has  been  entirely  tilled,  so  that  the  tree  may  have  plenty 
of  moisture  ami  also  that  the  soil  may  be  better  parked  about  the  roots. 
After  watering,  the  hole  should  be  tilled  in  completely. 

IRRIGATING  THE  YOUNG  ORCHARD. 

The  first  on.-  or  two  irrigations  after  planting  may  be  done  in  fur- 
rows made  previously,  and  in  which  trees  have  been  set.  While  this 
method  insures  an  ahundanee  of  water  at  the  start,  it  may  result  in 
damage  because  of  the  baking  of  the  soil  about  the  trees  and  should 
not  be  continued  for  any  length  of  time  after  the  trees  are  set.  It  is 
much  better  as  a  general  rule  to  irrigate  by  means  of  smaller  furrows 
on  either  side  of  the  rows,  containing  small  heads  of  water  run  long 
enough  to  thoroughly  saturate  tin1  soil  surrounding  the  trees.  The 
tendency  to  bake  will  not  be  nearly  so  great  as  when  the  ground  is 
actually  Hooded.  As  soon  as  possible  after  irrigation,  the  cultivator, 
spring  tooth  harrow,  disc  harrow,  or  other  suitable  implement  should 
be  used,  so  that  the  moisture  may  be  better  conserved  and  so  that  all 
tendency  of  the  soil  toward  baking,  may  be  eliminated.  In  sections 
where  irrigation  is  not  practiced  the  cultivation  recommended  to  follow 
irrigation,  should  be  conscientiously  done  to  conserve  the  moisture  so 
sary  for  the  proper  growth  and  development  of  the  trees. 

PROTECTORS  FOR  YOUNG  TREES. 

Young  trees  are  always  liable  to  attack  by  rabbits  and  other  rodents, 
and  are  also  subject  to  sun  scald  during  the  summer  season.  As  a  protec- 
tion against  both  the  rodents  and  sun  scald  various  shields  are  placed 
about  the  trunks.  Sometimes  a  cylinder  of  heavy  paper  is  used,  some- 
times wire  screening,  probably  best  of  all  are  wooden  protectors  made 
very  thin  from  some  pliable  wood.  These  should  be  left  the  natural 
color  and  never  painted  black  as  sun  scald  may  be  worse  if  black  pro- 
lei-tors  are  used  than  with  none  at  all.  A  common  lime  whitewash  is  a 
splendid  sun  scald  preventive. 


46  APPLE   GROWING   IN    CALIFORNIA. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

PRUNING. 

CUTTING  BACK  THE  YOUNG  TREE  WHEN  SET. 

It  has  already  been  said  that  a  one-year-old  whip  is  the  best  tree  to 
plant.  Such  should  be  cut  back  when  planted,  because  of  the  damage 
which  has  resulted  to  the  root  system  in  digging  and  the  consequent 
disturbance  of  the  balance  between  root  system  and  top.  The  root 
hairs,  the  function  of  which  is  to  take  up  the  plant  food  in  solution 
from  the  soil,  have  been  practically  all  destroyed,  and  new  ones  must 
be  formed  before  the  tree  can  be  supplied  by  the  roots.  It  is  conse- 
quently dependent,  in  starting  at  first,  principally  upon  the  stored-up 
plant  food  in  the  top  and  must  grow  for  a  short  time,  at  least,  almost 
independently  of  root  action.  This  being  the  case,  the  less  top  that 
there  is  the  better  chance  will  the  root  system  have  to  make  a  rapid 
recovery  and  renewal  of  root  hairs.  The  height  at  which  this  one-year- 
old  tree  should  be  left  will  depend  upon  the  distance  from  the  ground 
that  it  is  desired  to  make  the  head.  The  tendency  now  is  to  head  trees 
as  low  as  possible,  and  still  not  interfere  with  cultivation  of  the  orchard. 
The  writer  can  see  no  good  reason  for  heading  apple  trees  more  than 
twenty  inches  above  the  surface  of  the  ground.  This  gives  enough 
trunk  for  a  beautiful,  shapely  tree,  and  if  later  pruning  is  properly 
done  there  will  be  no  trouble  about  cultivation.  As  the  first  pruning 
may  largely  determine  the  height  of  head,  a  short  discussion  on  the 
advantages  of  a  low-headed  tree  will  not  be  out  of  place  here. 

LOW    HEADING. 

In  California,  as  well  as  practically  every  place  where  apples  are 
grown,  there  are  times  when  the  sun  is  very  hot  and  sun  scald  of  the 
bark  may  take  place  to  the  great  detriment  of  the  trees.  Such  injury 
makes  a  favorite  place  for  the  flat-headed  or  so-called  sun-borers  to 
gain  entrance  and  do  their  work  of  destruction.  Knowing  this,  is  there 
any  good  reason  for  leaving  a  great  high  trunk,  very  often  unprotected 
in  any  way,  exposed  to  the  action  of  the  sun  ?  The  destruction  wrought 
by  sun  scald  and  its  attendant  borers  in  California  is  so  great  that  low- 
heading  of  trees  can  not  be  too  strongly  recommended. 

Most  of  our  orchards  are  set  out  for  commercial  purposes  and  it  is 
expected  that  the  income  from  them  will  be  a  good  one.  As  in  every 
other  business,  it  is  necessary  to  keep  down  expenses  to  the  minimum  in 
order  to  make  good  profits.  The  cost  of  picking  fruit  is  greatly 
increased  when  it  is  necessary  to  climb  tall  ladders  to  get  it. 

A  certain  height  of  head  having  been  decided  upon  at  planting  time, 
— we  will  say  twenty  inches  for  the  purpose  of  illustration,  as  well  as 


Al'l'I.K    <;!«>\YI\<;     IN     CALIFORNIA. 


4? 


it  is  believed  that  this  is  about  the  right  height — it  is  obvious 
that  all   brain-lies  which   form   the  scaffold  or  framework  of  the  tree, 

should  not  emanate  from 
about  the  same  point  in  the 
trunk,  because  of  crowding 
and  consequent  weakening 
of  the  framework.  There 
should  be  at  least  from  ten 
inches  to  one  foot  allowed  for 
spacing  these  branches  for 
the  very  best  results.  If  then 
we  desire  to  have  our  apple 
trees  headed  within  twenty 
inches  of  the  ground  the 
newly  set  tree  should  be  cut 
back  to  a  height  of  thirty  or 
thirty-two  inches.  The  cur- 
rent season 's  growth  will  be  in 
the  form  of  many  laterals 
from  this  thirty  inches  or 
more  of  trunk,  and  if  every- 
thing is  favorable  they  should 
develop  almost  throughout  its 
entire  length.  See  Fig.  26. 
The  practice  of  rubbing  off 

Pi*    I'fi.-A  tree  cut  back  to  thirty  inches  in         sh°°ts  1<>W  down  On  the  trunk 

height  when  set.    (Original)  is   very   otten   tollowed   dur- 

ing the  first  slimmer.     It  is 

doubtful  if  it  pays  to  do  this  as  the  tree  needs  lots  of  foliage  for  its 
best  development,  and  the  chances  of  sun  scald  and  its  attendant  evils 
are  also  increased  by  this  practice.  Moderate  summer  pruning  may. 
howi-ver.  be  done,  and  the  second  season  there  should  be  plenty  of 
branches  to  choose  from  in  forming  the  framework. 

SELECTING  THE    FRAMEWORK    BRANCHES  THE   SECOND  SEASON. 

Only  a  »lance  is  necessary  in  practically  any  of  the  older  orchards, 
when  it  will  be  seen  that  very  little  attention  has  been  paid  in  the  past 
to  the  careful  selection  of  a  proper  number  of  branches  rightly  spaced. 
Siu-h  trees  as  the  one  shown  in  Figs.  27  and  28  are  not  at  all  uncommon. 
This  type  of  head  is  decidedly  bad  and  has  no  place  in  the  recently 
planted  orchards.  A  great  number  of  weak  crotches  are  inevitable  in 
such  cases  as  this;  no  larger  head  can  be  formed  than  on  a  lesser  num- 
ber, and  it  will  not  be  nearly  so  thrifty,  but  worst  of  all.  the  time  will 
snrely  come  when,  because  of  accident  or  otherwise,  it  will  be  necessary 
to  prune  out  some  of  the  large  limbs  from  the  framework.  The  close 
quarters  for  pruning  will  not  permit  of  doing  the  same  with  ease,  and 
as  a  consequence  large  stubs  will  be  left  which  always  mean  disaster  to 
an  apple  tree.  The  ends  will  not  heal  over,  rot  fungi  will  get  in  their 
work,  borers  and  termites  find  conditions  favorably  and  what  might 
have  been  a  long-lived  tree  is  doomed  after  only  a  few  short  years  of 
productivity. 


Fig.   27. — An  apple  tree  started  with  too  many  framework  branches.      (Original) 


APPLE   GROWING    IN    CALIFORNIA. 


49 


From  three  i<>  five  branches  are  plenty,  when  carefully  selected  in 
regard  t<>  spacing  ami  balancing  the  head.  1'nr  any  apple  tree.  Many 
prefer  three  because  of  the  fact  that  just  as  larire  a  head  can  be  formed 
upon  them  as  on  live,  and  there  will  not  lie  so  niueh  chance  for  crowding, 
Again,  the  lesser  number  is  desirable  because  of  the  extra  size  they  will 
attain  and  the  consequent  ability  to  hold  np  greater  loads  of  fruit. 
Occasionally  four  or  five  are  left  rather  than  three  because  of  the  lia- 
bility of  breaking  otf  branches  in  cultivating,  etc.  If  one  out  of  three 
scaffold  branches  is  broken  the  head  is  very  apt  to  be  unbalanced 
and  difficulty  may  be  experienced  in  getting  it  shaped  up  well  after- 
ward, where  if  there  were  four  or  five  and  one  should  get  broken  the 
chances  would  be  more  favorable. 


•jH. — Did  appl<-  on-hard  started   with  only  th 


scaffold  branches.      (Original) 


FiL-:.  '2^  shows  one  of  the  oldest  orchards  the  writer  has  seen,  which 
\vas  started  with  three  scaffold  branches.  While  the  spacing  of  these 
was  faulty  in  this  case,  the  trees  are  much  better  than  they  would  have 
been  had  more  branches  been  left.  Fiir.  •'-!<>  shows  an  apple  tree  after 
the  second  year's  pruning,  which  has  been  well  headed  and  which  has 
only  three  branches  left  to  form  the  framework.  Fig.  31  shows  another 
well-headed  tree  of  the  same  age.  in  which  five  have  been  left  instead 
of  three.  Hither  tree  will  make  a  good  growth,  but  the  former  will 
develop  the  stockiest  branches  and  should  be  a  little  better  tree  at  the 
«-nd  of  the  iiTowinji-  season.  Tlie  branches  selected  for  the  framework 
should  not  be  left  in  their  entirety,  but  should  be  cut  back  as  shown  in 
FJLTS.  .'in  and  '.}] .  If  they  are  left  without  cutting  back,  slender  willowy 
irrowths  will  probably  be  the  result.  If  cut  back  to  lengths  of  twelve 
to  fourteen  inches  a  heavier  growth  and  a  greater  increase  in  the 

4—13683 


50 


APPLE   GROWING   IN    CALIFORNIA. 


»3»fc-^g2      *'^^v>\X*r^ 
5^^^^?^^5«^ 


Fig.  30. — Young  apple  tree  after  the  second  season's 
pruning,  showing  a  head  started  with  three  scaffold 
branches.  (Original) 


Fig.  31. — Young  apple  tree  after  the  second  season's 
pruning,  showing  a  head  started  with  five  scaffold 
branches.  (Original) 


APPLK    «,U<»\VI\<;     IN     ('  \UF<»t;\l  A. 


51 


• 


/•^ 


ip   tree   in   foreground   which   lias  been   heavily   pruned,   photo- 
.ifi-aiih*'d  at  beginning  of  third  season. 


Fig.   33. — Same  tree  shown  in  Fig.   32,  after  season's  growth. 


52  APPLE   GROWING    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

diameter  of  the  twigs  will  take  place.  The  value  of  this  heavy  cutting 
back  is  well  illustrated  in  Figs.  32  and  33  which  show  the  same  tree. 
The  first  picture  was  taken  early  in  the  spring  and  the  second  on 
September  21st. 

In  the  case  of  most  varieties  of  trees,  at  least,  it  is  best  to  cut  to 
outside  buds  when  the  second  season's  pruning  is  done,  in  order  to 
spread  the  head.  The  amount  of  spread  will,  however,  depend  largely 
on  the  variety,  and  whether  outside  or  inside  buds  are  left  at  the  ter- 
minals of  the  twigs  will  depend  upon  this  varietal  factor.  For  instance, 
the  Winesap  has  a  great  tendency  to  spread  and  grow  bushy,  and  in 
order  to  make  it  grow-  upright,  or  at  least  to  increase  that  tendency, 
cutting  should  be  done  just  above  an  inside  bud.  On  the  other  hand. 


Fig.   33a. — Same  tree  shown  in  Fig.   33,  after  being  pruned. 

the  Rome  Beauty  tree  has  a  habit  of  growing  upright,  similar  to  the 
Bartlett  pear,  and  by  cutting  branches  in  each  case  just  above  outside 
buds  the  tendency  will  be  for  the  branches  to  grow  outwardly  and  thus 
spread  the  head.  More  attention  to  this  particular  phase  of  the  pruning 
operation  will  be  necessary  during  successive  seasons  than  during 
the  second. 

The  desired  number  of  branches  having  been  selected  and  cut  back 
as  showrn  in  the  figures,  the  tree  is  now  ready  for  the  third  season's 
growth. 

PRUNING    THE    THIRD    SEASON. 

Fig.  34  shows  the  ideal  type  of  head  after  the  third  season's  prun- 
ing, when  three  scaffold  branches  have  been  used  in  forming  the  frame- 
work. It  will  be  noticed  that  on  each  one  of  these  have  been  left  three 
of  the  season's  branches,  selected  so  as  to  avoid  bad  crotches,  properly 
spaced  and  cut  back  just  as  was  the  previous  season's  growth.  Thus 
we  have  a  tree  with  a  trunk  which  has  had  three  years'  growth.  From 


AIMM.K    <!KO\V1N<;     IN    CALIFORNIA. 


53 


tliis  trunk  are  three  branches  which  have  had  two  years'  growth,  and  in 
turn  each  one  of  these  supports  three  main  branches  with  a  few  laterals 
or  fifteen  for  the  entire  tree,  which  have  had  only  one  year's  growth. 
If  instead  of  the  five  scaffold  branch  tree  we  develop  a  head  with  three 
there  wotild  be  only  nine  of  the  one  year  old  branches  left,  which,  how- 
ever, is  enough  with  the  laterals  that  they  in  turn  will  throw  out  to 
make  a  big  tree,  capable  of  bearing  just  as  nnirh  fruit  as  the  former, 
;md  having  the  advantage  usually  of  extra  strength  of  branches. 

A  slight  modification  of  the  system  recommended  for  the  first  three 
\ears  is  used  in  heading  the  young  Gravenstein  trees  in  the  Sebastopol 


Kic.    :!!.— A    young  apple   tree,   well   headed,   after   the   third   season's  pruning. 

(Original.) 

section.  This  tree  makes  a  splendid  growth  under  the  conditions  exist- 
ing in  that  section,  and  in  order  to  prevent  crowding  in  the  head, 
to  render  cultivation  easy  close  to  the  trees,  and  to  develop  strong 
branches,  three  are  left  during  the  second  season  and  cut  back  as 
already  suggested.  Only  one  branch  is  allowed  to  develop  on  each  of  the 
three  limbs  of  the  second  season's  urowth.  and  is  cut  back  the  third 
season,  so  that  the  tree  still  has  only  three  main  branches,  but  each 
one  cut  hack  so  that  the  height  of  the  head  is  increased  by  only  a  couple 
of  feet.  Fig.  35  shows  a  young  Gravenstein  tree  at  Sebastopol  with 
three  selected  branches  cut  back  to  7  inches  the  beginning  of  the  second 
season  and  allowed  to  develop  additional  length  the  third.  The  fourth 
season  tw.»  <>r  three  branches  are  selected  on  each  one  of  these.  In  this 
manner  a  little  higher  branching  head  is  developed,  but  one  which  is 
very  stronir  see  Fig.  36).  due  to  the  growth  being  thrown  into  only 
ilii-ee  branches,  well  cut  back  for  two  seasons  after  planting. 


54 


APPLE    GROWING   IN    CALIFORNIA. 


PRUNING  THE  FOURTH  AND  FIFTH  SEASONS. 

At  the  end  of  the  third  season  a  shapely  head  should  be  formed  and 
such  a  framework  for  the  future  tree  developed,  that  pruning  ought 
not  to  be  a  difficult  matter.  Too  often  do  we  find  orchardists  neglect- 
ing the  work  after  this  time.  The  first  three  seasons  while  trees  are 
small  the  task  is  neither  expensive  nor  difficult,  but  as  they  growT  there 
is  a  rapid  increase  of  both  expense  and  difficulty  of  pruning  in  general, 
and  the  tendency  is  to  be  rather  careless  afterwards.  It  must  be  re- 


Fig.   35. — A  young  Gravenstein  tree  after  the  third  season's  pruning,  shaped  after  the 
methods  used  in  the  Sebastopol  section.     (Photograph  by  O.  E.  Bremner) 

membered,  however,  that  pruning  for  the  best  results  must  not  be 
neglected  for  a  single  season.  Careful,  annual  pruning,  beginning  the 
first  season  when  the  trees  are  set  and  continued  until  they  no  longer 
bear  crops,  will  do  more  toward  making  a  success  of  the  apple  business 
than  practically  everything  else.  Neglect  for  one  or  more  seasons,  fol- 
lowed by  very  heavy  pruning  as  a  result,  is  not  conducive  to  regular 
bearing  of  the  trees,  nor  to  successful  apple  culture. 

During  the  fourth  and  fifth  seasons  the  trees  will  bear  a  little,  but 
should  not  be  allowed  to  overload  themselves.  The  orchardist  should 
•still  devote?  his  energies  toward  growing  trees  and  not  fruit.  All  inter- 


APPLE   GROWING   IN   CALIFORNIA. 


55 


ferinir  branches  should  be  removed.  The  balance  of  the  head  should  be 
preserved  and  at  least  a  moderate  amount  of  cutting  back  of  branches 
should  be  done.  Care  in  cutting  to  outside  buds  during  the  cutting 
back  process  will  have  a  tendency  to  spread  the  trees  if  such  is  desir- 
able, or  the  reverse  operation  may  be  found  necessary.  Fruit  spurs 
will  have  developed  by  the  fifth  season  and  care  should  be  exercised  to 
preserve  these  on  the  trunks  and  larger  limbs,  where  they  are  so  often 


KiK-    :>»'»- — A    tree  with  ;i    very   sin>rm  framework  developed  by   lica\y   cintiiiK  bai-k. 
(  Photograph  by  O.  E.  Bremner) 

cut  off  by  primers.  One  of  the  mistakes  most  commonly  made  in  prun- 
ing apple  orchards  is  the  cutting  away  of  these  spurs.  Unintelligent 
primers  will  almost  always  begin  cutting  from  the  ground  and  the  re- 
moval of  these  valuable  spurs  is  the  result.  Orchardists  should  insist 
that  pruning  be  done  very  largely  from  a  ladder,  as  the  tops  of  the  trees 
need  a  good  share  of  the  attention  in  this  work.  In  fact,  if  heading 
ha>  been  well  done  there  should  be  practically  no  cutting  from  the 
ground,  except  possibly  of  a  few  succulent  sprouts. 


56 


APPLE    GROWING    IN    CALIFORNIA. 


PRUNING  MATURE  TREES. 

Correct  heading  and  careful  annual  pruning  of  the  apple  tree  for 
the  first  five  years  simplifies  the  pruning  operation  for  the  years  to 
follow.  Except  in  cases  of  accident  to  trees  there  should  be  no  large 
branches  to  take  out.  The  work  thus  far  should  have  been  done  with 
the  idea  of  leaving  just  enough  large  branches  to  form  the  best  possible 
head  without  any  interference  or  crowding.  Just  as  soon  as  such 
takes  place  in  later  years  all  branches  that  have  a  tendency  to  interfere 
with  others  should  be  taken  out  before  they  attain  a  large  size.  More 


Fig.   37.— A   tree  of  the   Yellow  Newtown  variety,    showing   the  development  of 
fruit  spurs  from  water  sprouts,  due  to  summer  pruning.      (Original) 

or  less  cutting  back  will  be  necessary  each  season,  and  a  study  may  be 
made  of  the  habits  of  growth  of  different  varieties  and  cutting  to  out- 
side buds  or  branches,  or  the  opposite  may  be  practiced  according  to 
the  needs  of  the  variety.  In  most  cases  fruit  spurs  should  be  preserved 
and  it  may  even  be  necessary  to  encourage  their  development. 

Mr.  W.  S.  Ballard  of  the  Bureau  of  Plant  Industry,  U.  S.  Depart- 
ment of  Agriculture,  and  Mr.  W.  H.  Volck,  County  Horticultural  Com- 
missioner of  Santa  Cruz  County,  have  been  carrying  on  some  very 
interesting  experiments  for  the  past  few  years  to  determine  the  feasi- 
bility of  developing  fruiting  spurs  from  the  so-called  water  sprout 
growth  that  always  develops  more  or  less  in  every  orchard.  They 
found  that  by  cutting  back  such  sprouts  early  in  the  summer  season. 


APPLE    GROWING    IN    CALIFORNIA. 


57 


leaving  two  or  three  inches  at  first  and  cutting  the  new  growth  back 
two  or  three  times  later  in  the  season,  so  that  by  the  end  of  the  growing 
period  there  would  be  formed  a  growth  about  six  inches  long,  a  fruit 
spur  that  would  bear  excellent  fruit  the  following  season  could  be 
developed.  Fig.  37  shows  one  of  the  trees  in  the  experimental  orchard 
near  Watsonville.  Similar  results  may  be  attained  by  cutting  back 
these  sprouts  during  the  dormant  season,  but  it  may  take  several 
years  to  form  healthy,  vigorous  fruit  spurs.  By  the  summer  pruning 
method  only  one  season  is  necessary.  Not  only  are  the  water  sprouts 


I-'iii.    ::v---l5ranrh  \\rll  studded  with  apples,  close  to  the  main  limb  and  not  in 
danger  of  wind  damage.      (Original) 

cut  back  but  also  new  growth  throughout  the  entire  head  of  the  trees. 
Thus  fruit  spurs  are  formed  close  to  the  larger  limbs  and  as  a  result 
apples  are  produced  close  in  as  shown  in  Fig.  38. 

The  results  of  the  experimental  work  done  by  Messrs.  Mallard  and 
Volck  mean  much  to  orchardists  who  have  allowed  the  destruction  by 
pruning  of  fruit  spurs  low  down  on  their  trees.  Heavy  cutting  back 
from  the  top  will  generally  induce  much  of  the  so-called  water  sprout 
urowth  low  down,  which  may  be  utilized  in  the  development  of  spurs. 
Xot  only  the  water  sprouts  low  down  on  the  trunk  may  be  made  over 
into  fruit  bearing  wood,  but  new  growth  anywhere  on  the  tree  may  be 
handled  in  the  same  manner  with  the  consequent  development  of  fruit 
spurs.  In  places  where  trees  have  a  tendency  to  bear  light  loads  of 
fruit  this  method  of  summer  pruning,  whereby  all  rank  growth  is 
checked  and  the  development  of  fruit  spurs  encouraged,  can  be  used 
to  very  great  advantauv. 

NATURAL    BRACING. 

When  a  tree  has  not  been  well  headed  or  well  pruned  it  is  sometiim-s 
desirable  to  brace  the  branches  against  possible  injury.  This  is  done 
by  twisting  together  two  young  twigs,  when  a  union  bet\veen  the  two 
will  take  place,  forming  sucli  a  brace  as  shown  in  Fig.  39. 


58 


APPLE    GROWING    IN    CALIFORNIA. 


STUBS. 

Notwithstanding  the  fact  that  the  practice  of  leaving  stubs  in  an 
orchard  when  pruning,  has  been  condemned  by  expert  horticulturists 
in  practically  every  publication  on  pruning,  there  are  still  a  great 
many  trees  to  be  seen  in  some  of  our  otherwise  splendid  orchards,  with 
these  unsightly  and  dangerous  stubs,  bearing  testimony  to  the  fact  that 
pruners  either  did  not  understand  their  business  or  did  not  care  how 
the  work  was  done. 

Branches  should  always  be  cut  off  close  to  other  branches  or  trunks 
from  which  they  emanate,  in  which  case  healing  will  take  place  and  the 
wounds  will  in  time  be  covered  over  with  new  bark,  provided  that  rot 


—Natural  brace 


to  strengthen  branches.      (Original) 


fungi,  with  their  attendant  decay,  do  not  develop.  If  stubs  of  any  size 
are  left  on  apple  trees,  they  always  die  back  to  the  point  where  the  cut 
should  have  been  made  and  very  frequently  dying  does  not  stop  at 
this  point,  but  the  trunk  or  larger  limbs  are  also  involved. 

The  reason  for  this  dying  back  is  very  clear,  when  we  consider  how 
the  tree  gets  its  supply  of  plant  food  that  enters  into  its  growth.  As 
every  orchardist  knows,  this  food  is  taken  from  the  ground  in  solution 
in  the  water  of  the  soil,  and  is  carried  upward  through  the  sap-wood  to 
the  leaves.  There,  through  a  complex  process  it  is  elaborated  or  con- 
verted into  starch  and  sugar  and  becomes  available  food,  which  then 
journeys  downward  through  the  cambium  or  growing  layer  of  the  bark. 
11  is  then  capable  of  healing  wounds  and  entering  into  the  life  of  trees. 
Before  going  to  the  leaves  in  its  crude  form  there  could  be  no  healing. 
Knowing  this  it  can  easily  be  seen  why  dying  back  takes  place  in  the 
stubs  that  are  left  by  rnivloss  or  thoughtless  primers.  The  apple  tree 


AI'IM.K    t;Uo\VIN<l     IN     CAI.IKOKNIA. 


59 


is  not  quirk  1<>  develop  buds  and  throw  out  new  growth  from  a  cut  off 
branch,  hence  we  have  a  stub  without  ;my  foliage  to  manufacture  the 
plant  food  from  the  crude  material  taken  up  by  the  roots,  and  while  the 
sap  may  journey  upward  for  a  time  through  such  stubs,  there  is  no 
downward  flow  of  elaborated  sap  from  the  leaves  and  consequently  no 
healing.  Rot  t'unun  get  in  their  work  soon  afterwards,  drying  out  takes 
place,  and  a  tree  may  he  ruined  in  a  very  short  time.  Many  an  orchard 
in  California  has  either  died  outright  or  become  worthless  because  of 
the  careless  leaving  of  stubs. 

TREATMENT   OF   WOUNDS. 

Since  drying  out  over  the  cut  surface  takes  place  very  rapidly  after 
a  hranch  has  heen  removed,  it  has  been  the  practice  to  paint  over  wounds 
to  prevent  this  drying,  thus  giving  the  healing  process  a  better  chance 
to  operate.  It  is  probable  that  the  idea  of  painting  has  been  carried 
to  the  extreme  and  too  much  dependence  has  been  placed  upon  it.  A 
hianrh  can  not  heal,  as  has  already  been  pointed  out,  unless  the  cut 
has  been  properly  made.  There  has  been  a  tendency  among  some 
orchardists  to  cut  without  any  care  whatever,  and  then  paint  heavily. 


Fig.    40. — A  good  type  of  pruning  saw. 

expecting  the  treatment  to  work  the  miracle  of  healing  against  iriture's 
way.  It  probably  does  not  pay  at  all  to  treat  small  cuts,  and  unless  the 
branch  removed  is  three  inches  in  diameter  or  more,  the  time  and  labor 
spent  in  painting  would  probably  be  lost. 

When  treatment  of  wounds  is  thought  to  be  necessary  there  is  nothing 
better  to  use  than  a  common  lead  paint.  Certain  grades  of  asphaltum 
have  also  been  used  with  success. 

PRUNING  TOOLS. 

Much  time  is  .often  wasted  and  sometimes  damage  done  to  trees 
because  of  the  use  of  poor  tools.  Practically  all  the  pruning  work  about 


l-'iir.    H        A 


i\j,..  .,)'   pruning   shears. 


an  on-hard  ean  be  done  with  the  saw  shown  in  Fig  40  and  shears  in 
Ki'_r.  41.  The  former  has  a  blade  which  can  be  inclined  at  any  angle, 
so  that  it  is  possible  to  cut  in  almost  any  kind  of  a  crotch.  The  blades. 
\v  hen  broken,  can  be  easily  removed  and  replaced  at  small  cost, 


60  APPLE    GROWING    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

TOP-WORKING  APPLE  TREES. 

It  frequently  happens  that  varieties  of  trees  are  found,  when  they 
come  into  bearing,  to  be  different  from  those  that  were  ordered ;  again, 
varieties  may  have  been  poorly  chosen  and  found  to  be  unadapted  to 
the  conditions  where  they  are  set  out.  In  either  case  grafting  over  to 
some  other  variety  may  be  necessary. 

In  the  case  of  two  or  three  year  old  trees  this  process  is  very  simple 
and  may  be  done  without  any  appreciable  injury  to  the  trees.  Such 
young  trees  as  these  can  be  very  easily  budded  by  inserting  buds  of 
the  desired  variety  into  small  branches  low  down.  Several  branches 
can  be  selected  because  of  their  placement  being  such  as  to  be  desirable 
in  the  formation  of  the  head.  The  best  time  is  in  August  or  September. 
The  following  spring,  if  the  buds  are  found  to  be  green,  indicating 
that  they  have  united  with  the  bark  of  the  tree,  branches  should  be  cut 
away  just  above,  thus  throwing  the  strength  of  the  tree  into  the  buds, 
when  they  should  make  a  very  rapid  growth.  If  trees  have  large  tops 
it  may  not  be  well  to  cut  them  all  away  at  once,  biit  to  leave  a  portion 
of  them  until  the  buds  have  made  a  good  start,  when  the  entire  tops 
can  be  removed. 

If  grafting  is  preferred  to  budding,  larger  limbs  may  be  chosen.  In 
fact,  if  the  tree  is  only  two  years  old  it  may  be  successfully  grafted 
by  cutting  it  back  below  the  branches  and  inserting  one  or  two  scions, 
according  to  the  size  of  the  trunk.  There  are  several  methods  of  graft- 
ing, the  two  most  common  being  known  as  kerf  and  cleft  grafting.  The 
first  consists  of  the  insertion  of  a  scion  in  a  V-shaped  opening  made  in 
side  of  limb,  the  scion  being  shaped  to  fit  tightly  into  this  opening, 
where  it  is  immediately  covered  with  wax.  Cleft  grafting  consists  in 
the  splitting  of  the  ends  of  the  sawed-off  limbs  and  the  insertion  of 
scions  previously  cut  at  one  end,  so  that  the  cambium  layer  may  be 
brought  into  contact  with  the  corresponding  layer  of  the  limb  being 
grafted.  Whether  cleft  or  kerf  grafting  is  done  the  scions  should  be 
sloped  a  little  outward,  so  that  the  cambium  layers  will  cross,  otherwise 
there  may  be  no  point  of  contact  between  the  two  and  as  a  consequence 
no  union.  Crossing  is  all  that  is  necessary  to  insure  a  good  union. 
Waxing  to  exclude  the  air  should  be  carefully  done. 

The  scion  should  be  made  from  one  year  old  wood  with  well  formed, 
thrifty  buds  taken  from  a  good  producing  tree.  Succulent  water  sprout 
growth  is  not  desirable  for  scion  wood.  Two  or  three  buds  are  sufficient 
to  leave  on  each  scion  and  the  ends,  if  cut,  should  be  waxed  over. 

What  has  been  said  in  regard  to  grafting  young  trees  will  apply  to 
old  also,  but  very  large  limbs  should  not  be  chosen  for  grafting.  Bud- 
ding may  be  successfully  done  in  young  growth  low  down  on  older 
trees.  If  limbs  two  inches  in  diameter  or  more  are  cut  off  for  the  inser- 
tion of  scions  more  than  one  should  be  put  in  a  stub.  In  the  case  of 
very  large  limbs,  several  must  be  inserted  if  the  healing  of  the  cut 
surface  takes  place  entirely  around  the  stub.  A  scion  should  not  bo 
expected  to  heal  for  more  than  an  inch  and  one  half  or  two  indies  on 


APIM.K    GROWING    IN    CALIFORNIA.  61 

each  side,  and  enough  must  In-  used  to  heal  the  stub  entirely  around,  or 
else  drying  out  and  the  death  of  parts  not  Fed  hy  the  downward  flow 
of  sap  from  the  leaves  of  tin*  scion  will  take  place,  weakening,  it'  not 
eventually  killing,  the  stub  and  its  graft. 

.Many  experienced  grafters  prefer  to  leave  a  considerable  portion  of 
the  top  of  old  trees  for  one  or  two  seasons  after  grafting.  This  is 
undoubtedly  a  urood  practice,  but  such  should  not  be  left  long  enough 
to  interfere  with  the  growth  of  the  grafts. 

Aphis  are  very  often  exceedingly  destructive  to  young  grafts  and 
•  •are  should  be  taken  to  control  them  by  means  of  sprays  before  they 
bring  about  permanent  injury. 

GRAFTING  WAXES. 

A  good  grafting  wax  being  one  of  the  requisites  for  successful  graft- 
ing, the  following,  copied  from  "Fruit  Growing  in  Arid  Regions, "  by 
Paddock  and  Whipple,  is  given: 

"  *  *  *  There  are  the  waxes  applied  warm  with  a  brush  and  those  applied  cold,  the 
heat  of  the  hands  being  sufficient  to  make  them  pliable.  With  the  first  it  is  neces- 
sary to  hav«-  special  equipment  to  keep  the  wax  melted  in  the  field,  and  this  generally 
limits  its  use  to  a  fe\v  professional  grafters  who  are  prepared  to  use  it.  The  cold 
waxes  are  prepared  for  use  by  melting  together  the  ingredients,  pouring  the  melted 
material  in  cold  water,  and  pulling  it  like  taffy  until  it  becomes  a  buff  color.  It  can 
be  kept  from  season  to  season  by  immersing  it  in  water.  The  common  formula  given 
for  the  preparation  of  this  wax  is  four  pounds  of  resin,  two  pounds  of  beeswax,  and 
one  pound  of  tallow.  Paraffin  may  be  substituted  for  the  beeswax  in  this  formula; 
although  it  seems  that  the  resulting  wax  is  hardly  as  durable,  it  serves  the  purpose 
very  well.  By  increasing  the  amount  of  resin  in  the  above  formula  to  six  pounds,  it 
makes  a  very  good  hard  wax  for  warm  application.  Another  good  wax  to  be  applied 
warm  is  prepared  by  melting  together  three  pounds  of  resin,  one  pound  of  beeswax 
and  one  pint  of  raw  linseed  oil." 


62  APPLE    GROWING    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

CHAPTER  IX. 

INTERCROPPING. 

During  the  five  years  or  more  while  the  young  apple  orchard  is 
coming  into  bearing  it  is  often  quite  a  problem  for  the  man  of  limited 
means  to  make  a  living,  and  he  must  either  secure  work  elsewhere  or 
grow  crops  between  the  trees,  out  of  which  he  can  make  a  sufficient  sum 
to  keep  up  expenses  until  a  profit  can  be  made  from  the  apples. 

Cropping  of  land  between  orchard  trees,  even  while  young,  has  some- 
times been  discouraged,  but  the  writer  can  see  no  good  reason  why  such 
should  not  be  done  even  after  trees  come  into  bearing,  provided  that 
certain  precautions  are  exercised.  The  orchard  should  of  course  receive 
first  consideration  and  no  crops  of  any  kind  should  be  grown  between 
the  tree  rows,  which  in  their  care  would  detract  from  the  care  of  the 
trees.  In  this  connection  it  is  unwise  to  grow  crops  that  require  water 
late  in  the  summer  or  in  early  fall,  as  irrigation  at  that  time  may  start 
new  growth  or  keep  trees  growing  too  long  into  the  winter,  in  either 
case  rendering  them  liable  to  injury  during  the  winter  months,  because 
of  the  soft  unripened  condition  of  the  wood. 

It  may  happen  that  there  is  scarcity  of  irrigation  water  for  the 
orchard.  In  such  case  it  would  also  be  unwise  to  plant  intercrops  of 
any  kind  and  thus  take  away  the  moisture  needed  by  the  trees. 

Crops  such  as  corn,  which  make  a  rank  growth,  might  not  be  best 
for  very  young  trees,  on  account  of  shading  them  too  much. 

Notwithstanding  these  objections  that  may  be  cited  against  an  inter- 
crop in  the  young  orchard,  conditions  are  very  often  such  that  with 
the  proper  crops  and  the  proper  care  there  will  be  no  harm  done,  and 
much  good  may  even  result  to  the  orchard  because  of  better  care  due 
to  these  crops. 

As  was  mentioned  in  another  chapter,  California  soils  are  usually 
deficient  in  nitrogen  and  any  leguminous  crop  is  good  to  grow  between 
the  trees,  because  of  its  adding  this  important  element  to  the  soil.  Peas 
and  beans  for  this  reason  are  excellent  as  intercrops,  and  provided  that 
market  facilities  for  such  are  good  there  is  probably  nothing  better  that 
can  be  grown.  Of  the  non-leguminous  crops  may  be  mentioned  potatoes, 
cantaloupes,  strawberries,  cabbages,  celery,  in  fact  almost  any  vegetable 
crop,  and  the  one  chosen  will  depend  in  most  cases  upon  the  demand 
for  the  product. 

Field  corn  is  quite  frequently  used  as  an  intercrop,  but  is  probably 
not  the  best  crop  for  the  first  year,  at  least.  Its  tendency  to  grow  very 
tall  if  it  does  well  is  against  it,  for  the  young  trees  are  very  often  shaded 
too  much,  and  as  a  consequence  fail  to  make  the  growth  that  they 
should.  This  objection  may  be  partly  eliminated  by  keeping  the  rows 
of  corn  several  feet  away  from  rows  of  trees,  thus  giving  the  latter  more 
room.  Sweet  corn  and  popcorn,  because  of  their  smaller  growth  and 
lesser  amount  of  shade,  could  be  grown  with  less  danger  of  damage  than 
the  field  corn. 

The  growing  of  intercrops  is  very  often  discouraged  because  of  the 
plant  food  that  is  taken  from  the  soil,  thus  depriving  the  trees  of  their 
supply.  This  objection  is  certainly  weak,  for  no  one  should  expect  to 
grow  orchard  trees  on  land  for  many  years  without  fertilizing  to  supply 
the  elements  removed,  and  the  growing  of  crops  between  the  trees  merely 
hastens  the  time  when  such  fertilization  must  be  done. 


APPLE   GROWING   IN   CALIFORNIA. 


CHAPTER  X. 

IRRIGATION,  CULTIVATION-  COVER  CROPS  AND 
FERTILIZERS. 

The  scarcity  of  water  in  some  parts  of  the  state  where  apples  are 
uTown,  and  the  total  absence  of  rain  during  the  summer  season,  makes 
the  conservation  of  moisture  in  the  soil  one  of  the  important  orchard 
problems.  Fortunately,  the  rainfall  during  the  winter  is  ordinarily 
quite  heavy  and  the  ground  receives  a  good  soaking  during  that  season. 
If  nothing  is  done  to  check  the  evaporation  of  moisture  after  the  rains 
cease  and  the  hnt  weather  comes  on,  the  soil  may  become  too  dry  in  a 
very  short  time.  Those  who  are  fortunate  enough  to  have  a  good  supply 
of  irrigation  water  are  inclined  to  use  it  freely,  thus  keeping  the  orchard 


Fig.   4L'. — Well  tilled  orchard  in  Humboldt  County. 

in  a  moist  condition  without  any  attempt  to  conserve  what  is  added. 
Very  frequently,  it  may  be  said,  too  much  water  is  used  for  the 
good  of  the  orchard,  which  would  be  better  off  if  less  were  applied  and 
the  cultivator  used  more.  The  best  condition  of  the  soil  occurs  not 
when  it  is  excessively  wet.  but  when  it  is  quite  moist  and  the  surface 
not  baked  but  in  a  loose*  workable  condition.  Aeration  is  just  as  neces- 
sary for  the  best  development  of  the  root  system  as  moisture,  and  an 
excessive  quantity  of  the  latter  may  cut  off  the  air  supply  to  such  an 
extent  as  to  interfere  materially  with  the  growrth  of  the  trees. 

It  is  sometimes  difficult  to  make  people  believe  that  cultivation  does 
actually  conserve  the  moisture,  but  a  trial  only  is  sufficient  to  convince 
the  most  skeptical.  The  reason  that  it  does  lies  in  the  fact  that  the 


64 


APPLE   GROWING    IN    CALIFORNIA. 


capillary  action,  by  means  of  which  the  soil  water  is  brought  to  the  sur- 
face and  there  evaporated,  is  checked.  In  other  words,  the  soil  is  made 
up  of  fine  particles  with  spaces  in  between  which  become  filled  with 
water.  As  a  liquid  in  a  fine  tube  will  always  travel  upwards  and  reach 
a  level  much  higher  than  outside  the  tube,  so  in  the  soil  we  find  the  same 
tendency,  and  we  may  conceive  of  the  water  as  coming  up  through 
myriads  of  little  tubes  which  remain  wide  open  to  the  surface  unless 
something  is  done  to  interfere  with  their  continuity.  Such  interference 
may  be  brought  about  by  the  use  of  the  cultivator  during  the  summer 
season,  when  evaporation  takes  place  so  rapidly  under  ordinary  condi- 
tions ;  but,  as  they  will  soon  open  up  again  after  disturbance  by  the  cul- 
tivator, frequent  cultivations  are  necessary,  so  that  as  fast  as  the  mois- 


Fig-.   43. — Well  tilled  orchard  in  Santa  Cruz  County.      (Original) 

ture  finds  its  way  to  the  surface  through  these  tubes,  it  is  checked  by 
again  breaking  the  capillarity.  Figs.  42  and  43  show  two  well  tilled 
orchards  in  Humboldt  and  Santa  Cruz  counties.  The  ideal  condition  of 
the  soil  to  prevent  evaporation  is  that  of  a  dust  mulch,  which  may  be 
maintained  by  working  the  soil  with  some  type  of  harrow  or  cultivator 
once  a  week.  Some  enthusiastic  advocates  of  clean  cultivation  have 
gone  over  their  orchards  even  more  frequently  than  this. 

Besides  being  a  valuable  means  whereby  moisture  may  be  conserved, 
cultivation  is  beneficial  in  keeping  down  weeds,  and  also  places  the  soil 
in  the  best  possible  condition  for  root  development  and  the  resultant 
tree  growth.  It  is  a  matter  of  common  observation  that  orchards  to 


Al'PLK    (;R(»WIN<;    IX    CALIFORNIA.  65 

which  frequent  summer  cultivations  are  given  make  better  growth  than 
do  those  where  cultivation  is  neglected.  In  most  parts  of  the  arid  \\Yst. 
hut  not  commonly  in  California,  we  find  conditions  that  do  not  favor 
summer  cultivation.  The  winters  in  these  places  are  so  cold  that  noth- 
ing can  l>e  in-own  during  that  season  of  the  year.  Consequently  there  is 
no  time,  if  clean  cultivation  is  practiced,  when  a  crop  can  be  grown  for 
tlie  addition  of  nitrogen  or  humus,  hence  the  necessity  of  growing  a 
summer  cover  crop. 

COVER    CROPS. 

In  most  parts  of  California  our  fine  warm  winter  climate  enables 
us  to  LITOW  crops  of  some  kind  in  the  orchard  during  this  season. 
Owinu1  t<>  this  fact  summer  cultivation  is  advocated  and  is  practiced 
successfully  nearly  everywhere  that  apples  are  grown.  Because  our 
soils  are  deficient  in  nitrogen,  a  leguminous  cover  crop  is  preferable. 
Amoim  the  legumes  which  have  given  good  satisfaction  under  our  con- 
ditions may  be  mentioned  the  common  burr  clover,  vetches,  peas,  sweet 
clover  and  alfalfa.  Many  object  to  the  growing  of  alfalfa  in  an  apple 
on-hard,  and  probably  it  is  not  good  practice  to  sow  it  unless  it  is  done 
with  the  idea  of  using  it  for  a  cover  crop  only  and  not  for  hay.  On 
hardpan  soils  there  is  nothing  better  than  the  root  system  of  the  alfalfa 
to  penetrate  into  this  hard  layer,  thus  breaking  it  up  more  or  less  and 
enabling  the  apple  roots  to  go  down  deeper.  When  used  for  this  pur- 
pose it  should  of  course  be  left  growing  in  the  orchard  more  than  one 
season.  AVhen  alfalfa  is  sown  it  should  be  kept  some  distance  from  the 
trees  in  order  to  facilitate  plowing  later  on,  and  is  only  desirable  where 
plenty  <»f  water  is  available  for  irrigation.  Generally  speaking,  the 
cover  crnp  should  be  grown  only  during  the  winter  season,  being  plowed 
under  early  in  the  spring,  if  possible,  before  the  rains  have  ceased. 
Frequent  cultivations  later  on,  after  the  season  becomes  warm,  will 
result  in  conservation  of  the  moisture.  If  it  is  not  possible  to  grow 
a  leguminous  cover  crop,  an  annual  crop  such  as  rye,  wheat  or  barley 
may  l»e  umwii.  In  this  case  the  principal  value  would  be  to  better  the 
physical  condition  of  the  soil,  together  with  the  addition  of  humus. 
There  are  places  in  the  state,  no  doubt,  where  apples  are  grown,  and 
where  the  rainfall  is  insufficient  to  make  a  cover  crop  practical,  even 
during  the  winter  season.  In  such  cases  fertilizing  must  be  done  in 
some  other  way. 

One  of  the  most  successful  apple  u rowers  of  the  East  says  that  he 
made  Iris  on-hard  practically  an  annual  bearer  by  the  use  of  cover  crops. 

FERTILIZERS. 

Then-  is  nothing  better  for  the  orchard  than  barnyard  manure,  and 

while  the  supply  is  often  limited  it  is  in  other  cases  wasted  when  it 
miirht  br  used  to  irood  advantage.  It  is  always  wise  to  apply  this 
liberally,  unless  the  cost  is  such  as  to  make  it  prohibitive. 

nmercial  fertilizers  have  not  been  used  extensively,  but  no  doubt 
would  »-ive  n-siilis  under  certain  conditions  at  least.  Spraying  with 
nitrate  of  soda  and  other  nitrates,  in  the  early  spring,  has  been  done 


66  APPLE    GROWING    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

in  an  experimental  way  by  W.  H.  Volck  at  Watsonville.  The  results 
that  he  has  attained  have  on  the  whole  been  excellent,  and  this  method 
of  applying  nitrates  bids  fair  to  come  into  general  use. 

Many  of  our  California  soils  are  deficient  in  lime  and  the  addition 
of  either  air  slaked  or  ground  stone  lime  might  be  beneficial.  Xo  rules 
can  be  laid  down  for  this  work  because  of  the  great  varieties  of  soil 
that  occur  in  the  state.  If  trees  are  not  doing  well  it  may  be  that 
fertilizers  of  some  kind  are  needed.  A  soil  analysis  will  serve  as  a 
guide  as  to  what  should  be  added,  but  must  not  be  depended  upon  too 
much,  for  while  it  shows  what  elements  of  plant  food  the  soil  contains, 
and  the  proportions  of  each  present,  it  does  not  show  how  much  of  each 
is  available,  so  after  all  much  experimental  work  is  necessary. 

As  stated  previously,  nitrates  are  nearly  always  scarce  and  fertiliza- 
tion usually  means  the  addition  of  the  element  nitrogen,  either  in  the 
form  of  leguminous  cover  crops  grown  in  the  soil,  or  mineral  nitrates 
applied  direct  or  in  the  form  of  a  spray  to  the  trees. 


Al'l'I.K    (JK'OWIXG    IN    CALIFORNIA. 


'    U  AFTER  XI. 


THINNING. 

One  important  operation  in  connection  with  the  handling  of  our  im- 
mature apple  crop,  vix.  tli  inning,  is  too  often  neglected.  The  excuse 
generally  irivm  for  not  thinning  is  that  it  costs  too  much.  This  is  a 
howi-ver.  where  a  little  extra  money  invested  will  add  greatly  to 
the  income  of  an  orchard.  There  are  records  of  a  number  of  experi- 
ments that  have  been  carried  out  which  prove  conclusively  that  thinning 
I  -ays.  and  to  neglect  the  operation  means  to  fail  to  do  one  of  the  most 
important  things  in  connection  with  the  growing  of  apples. 

INFLUENCE    UPON    THE    FRUIT. 

It  is  the  desire  of  ever}-  fruit  grower  to  produce  fruit  possessing  a 
good  size,  high  color,  fine  quality  and  uniformity.  Such  is  usually 
impossible  unless  thinning  is  practiced. 

The  size  that  fruit  attains  —  not  taking  into  consideration  the  varia- 
tion due  to  variety  —  is  influenced  more  or  less  by  age  of  trees,  stock, 
soil,  climate,  cultural  methods  and  the  presence  of  disease  or  insect 
Some  of  these  influences  may  be  such  as  to  prevent  the  pro- 
duction <;f  a  desirable  size  of  fruit,  but  in  general  our  trees  will  with 
ordinary  care  produce  fruit  of  good  size,  provided  that  they  are  not 
overloaded.  The  time  has  passed  when  we  want  to  place  a  premium 
on  abnormally  large  fruit.  It  is  not  the  purpose  to  advocate  thinning 
so  heavily  as  to  bring  about  an  overgrown  condition,  but  during  seasons 
of  big  crops  to  thin  to  a  point  where  the  most  desirable  size  for  the 
variety  can  be  attained.  Any  one  who  is  at  all  familiar  with  the 
orchard  business  knows  that  great  losses  are  often  occasioned  because 
of  undersized  apples. 

The  desirability  of  producing  good  color  is  unquestioned.  Not  only 
does  this  please  the  eye  but  also  adds  to  the  quality.  A  rosy 
AVinesap  or  Baldwin  apple  wTill  be  sweet  and  juicy,  with  a  flavor  to 
suit  the  most  delicate  palate,  while  the  same  varieties  grown  on  the 
same  trees,  but  uncolored.  will  be  scarcely  relished.  Leaving  out  of 
consideration  the  fact  that  color  influences  quality  in  the  variety,  the 
beautiful  red  apple  will  command  higher  prices  on  the  market  than 
better  varieties  without  color. 

AVhile  size,  colm-  and  quality  must  all  be  taken  into  consideration, 
then-  is  probably  nothing  more  desirable  than  uniformity,  and  in  no 
way  can  this  condition  be  brought  about  better  than  by  thinning;  in 
fact,  it  is  impossible  during  seasons  of  large  crops,  at  least,  to  secure 
uniformity  in  size  in  any  other  way.  The  greatest  argument  in  favor 
of  thinning,  as  far  as  the  fruit  alone  is  concerned,  is  based  on  the  above 
statement.  A  lack  of  uniformity  complicates  standardization  methods 
and  all  the  operations  of  packing,  and  is  not  at  all  desirable  in  the 
•  •aiming  and  drying  business.  If  by  thinning,  fruit  can  be  made  to 
average  well  in  si/e.  a  considerable  outlay  of  money  is  justifiable  for 
the  operation. 

Another  argument  in  favor  of  thinnini:  lias  to  do  with  the  pres- 
en<-e  of  the  wor.-t  insect  pest  of  this  fruit,  vix.  the  codling  moth. 


68  APPLE    GROWING    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

If  apples  are  allowed  to  grow  in  clusters  so  that  they  are  touching  one 
another  the  larvae  not  only  take  advantage  of  the  ideal  point  of  entry 
between  the  apples,  but  the  sprayer  is  placed  at  a  decided  disadvantage, 
for  he  finds  it  extremely  difficult  to  get  the  spray  where  it  will  be  eaten 
by  the  worms.  Varieties  that  have  a  tendency  to  cluster  are  nearly 
always  riddled  by  codling  moth  if  the  pest  is  present  in  large  numbers, 
unless  the  clusters  are  broken  up  by  thinning. 

INFLUENCE    OF    THINNING    UPON    TREES. 

As  far  as  the  trees  themselves  are  concerned  there  are  three  main 
reasons  why  thinning  should  be  practiced :  first,  it  allows  them  to  make 
a  proper  growth;  secondly,  it  prevents  breakage  of  limbs,  and  thirdly, 
it  induces  uniform  annual  crops. 

A  tree  is  capable  of  taking  just  so  much  plant  food  in  the  way  of 
nitrogen,  potash,  phosphoric  acid,  etc.,  from  the  soil  through  its  roots, 
and  carbon  from  the  air  through  its  leaves.  An  excessive  amount  of 
fruit  is  apt  to  require  most  of  this  food  at  the  expense  of  a  good  thrifty 
growth.  The  desire  of  most  orchardists  is  to  develop  a  tree  to  bearing 
size  in  the  shortest  possible  time,  and  to  have  it  bear  abundant  crops 
each  season,  often  depriving  it  of  proper  growth  in  so  doing.  Our 
trees,  I  fear,  are  too  often  worked  to  death,  and  we  wonder  why  in  a 
few  years '  time  they  begin  to  deteriorate  and  the  crops  of  former  years 
are  not  harvested.  The  splendid  deep  soils  so  full  of  plant  foods  that 
we  find  so  commonly  in  our  state,  will  do  much  towards  bringing  about 
the  heavy  annual  bearing  so  greatly  desired,  but  no  soil  will  last  for- 
ever, and  the  time  will  come  when  trees,  or  whatever  else  may  be  grown 
on  land  for  year  after  year,  will  develop  large  crops  only  at  the  expense 
of  growth  and  health,  unless  something  is  done  in  the  way  of  fertilizing 
to  build  up  the  soil  and  thinning  to  prevent  over-bearing. 

Thinning  to  prevent  branches  from  breaking  down  under  their 
weight  of  fruit  is  quite  generally  practiced,  but  too  frequently  do  we 
find  the  prop  doing  this  duty.  A  heavy  crop  of  apples  is  usually  fol- 
lowed by  a  light  one.  This  is  undoubtedly  due  to  the  fact  that  the 
trees  are  allowed  to  bear  too  heavily  during  seasons  of  good  crops,  con- 
sequently the  formation  of  fruit  buds  for  the  next  season's  crop  is 
prevented.  A  tree  not  only  has  to  mature  its  crop  of  fruit  and  make 
a  certain  amount  of  growth  during  a  season,  but  it  also  has  to  make 
fruit  buds  for  the  succeeding  season,  a  process  which  is  frequently 
rendered  impossible  by  overproduction. 

THINNING    BY    PRUNING. 

The  cutting  out  of  wood  containing  fruit  buds  during  the  dormant 
season  may  be  done  as  the  first  step  in  thinning  the  crop.  Pruning, 
when  done  with  the  idea  of  thinning  the  fruit,  must  be  done  intelli- 
gently and  not  by  men  whose  only  knowledge  of  the  business  consists 
in  their  ability  to  cut  off  a  branch  because  they  think  it  interferes  with 
the  proper  shape  of  the  tree.  Because  of  no  knowledge  of  the  bearing 
habits  of  an  apple  tree  we  sometimes  see  trees  from  which  all  the  fruit 
spurs  have  been  cut  as  high  above  the  ground  as  a  man  can  reach. 
These  are  exaggerated  cases,  but  serve  to  illustrate  the  fact  that  too 
little  attention  is  paid  to  some  of  these  fundamental  principles  which 
1'Orir  upon  the  subject  of  thinning. 


APPLE   GROWING    IN    CALIFORNIA.  69 

Pruning  can  not  be  made  to  take  tin-  place  of  thinning  altogether. 
Fruit  will  duster  just  the  same  on  pruned  trees  as  those  unpruned, 
and  there  is  no  way  of  breaking  up  these  clusters  and  giving  each  fruit 
for  development,  except  by  picking  off  part  of  it  by  hand. 


THINNING    BY   REMOVING  THE    FRUIT  AFTER    IT  SETS. 

The  earlier  the  fruit  is  removed  the  better  chance  will  the  remainder 
have  to  develop.  While  no  time  can  be  set,  that  will  not  be  subject  to 
\\ul<-  variation  with  seasons  and  different  fruits,  in  general  thinning 
should  be  done  just  as  soon  as  possible  after  the  fruit  sets  and  danger  of 
the  early,  or  so-called  June  drop,  is  over.  The  work  may  be  done  quite 
handily  with  a  pair  of  thinning  shears  such  as  shown  in  Fig.  44.  These 
may  be  purchased  at  small  cost  and  will  greatly  aid  in  the  work. 


Fig.   44. — A  good  type  of  shears  for  use  in  thinning  apples. 

The  amount  of  fruit  that  should  be  left  on  a  tree  is,  of  course,  an 
I'Xi-eedingly  hard  thing  to  judge.  Some  have  advocated  thinning  with 
tin-  idea  of  leaving  a  certain  number  of  boxes  of  well  developed  fruit. 
While  this  might  not  be  done  with  a  very  great  degree  of  accuracy  at 
first,  those  who  have  tried  it  claim  that  in  a  very  short  time  one  will 
ii-arn  just  about  how  to  space  the  apples  so  that  an  amount  approxi- 
mating a  certain  number  of  boxes  is  left.  This  spacing  will,  of  course, 
vary  with  the  variety,  the  average  being  about  six  inches.  If  trees 
are  well  set  with  fruit  so  that  an  even  distribution  can  be  brought 
about,  all  clusters  should  be  broken  up  until  no  two  apples  touch,  and 
all  fruit  on  the  tips  of  small  twigs  should  be  removed.  Careful,  sys- 
tematic work  is  necessary  for  the  greatest  success.  He  who  goes  into 
his  on-hard  with  a  pole  and  knocks  off  some  fruit  here  and  there  has 
not  thinned.  True,  he  has  relieved  the  tree  of  some  of  its  burden,  but, 
in  all  probability,  in  such  a  way  that  he  will  not  be  repaid  to  any 
extent  for  his  efforts. 


70  APPLE    GROWING    IX    CALIFORNIA. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

INJURY  AND  PROTECTION  OF  APPLES  FROM  FREEZING. 

It  has  already  been  stated  that  one  of  the  chief  limiting  factors  in 
the  production  of  apples  throughout  the  various  states  of  the  Union  is 
frost.  It  is  true  that  there  are  certain  sections  of  the  country  where 
frosts  have  seldom  or  never  occurred  to  the  detriment  of  the  fruit  crop. 
Experience  of  orchardists  in  California  and  elsewhere  has  led  to  the 
conclusion  that  no  section,  no  matter  how  free  it  has  been  from  killing 
frosts  during  the  danger  period  of  trees  in  the  past,  can  be  said  to 
possess  immunity,  and  there  may  come  a  time  when  the  temperature 
will  drop  so  low  that  buds,  blossoms  and  fruit,  if  not  trees,  must  suc- 
cumb. There  are,  of  course,  many  places  where  fine  fruit  is  grown  dur- 
ing favorable  seasons  that  are  visited  by  killing  frosts  periodically,  and 
the  chances  for  and  against  raising  a  crop  are  about  even.  Such  sections 
do  not  offer  the  best  advantages  for  commercial  orcharding  unless  some 
practical  means  of  protecting  the  crop  during  the  danger  period  may 
be  employed. 

PERIOD    OF    GREATEST    DANGER     FROM     KILLING     FROSTS. 

In  the  case  of  apples,  the  injury  is  usually  done  either  to  the  buds, 
blossoms  or  small  fruit  in  the  early  spring,  about  blossoming  time, 
although  a  severe  freeze  during  the  winter  season  may  kill  the  buds, 
which  often  stand  temperatures  ranging  from  ten  to  thirty  degrees  or 
more  below  zero.  The  period  of  greatest  danger  corresponds  very 
closely  to  the  time  from  when  the  buds  begin  to  swell  in  the  spring 
until  the  fruit  has  reached  a  diameter  of  a  half  inch.  This  time  is, 
of  course,  subject  to  variations  in  climate,  due  to  altitude  or  local 
conditions. 

BUD    INJURY. 

Winter  or  early  spring  injury  to  buds  may  be  detected  by  a  discolored 
area  seen  in  the  center  upon  cutting  them  open.  The  pistil  or  central 
organ  of  the  blossom  is  usually  the  first  part  to  freeze  and,  once  frozen, 
fertilization  is  rendered  impossible.  Blossoms  so  injured  will  sometimes 
develop,  and  the  trees  will  come  out  in  bloom  and  be  just  as  beautiful 
as  if  nothing  had  happened.  An  examination  of  such  blossoms  will  show 
the  blackened  pistil  in  the  center.  A  peculiar  form  of  freezing  of  apple 
blossoms,  which  has  come  to  my  notice  in  another  state,  destroys  the 
petals  entirely.  The  rest  of  the  parts  of  the  blossom  develop  normally, 
fertilization  takes  place  as  usual,  and  a  good  crop  of  fruit  may  set 
on  the  trees. 

FRUIT    INJURY. 

Often  fruit  develops  from  frost-injured  blossoms,  but  as  a  rule  only 
when  fertilization  has  taken  place  prior  to  the  injury.  In  Bulletin  91 
of  the  Montana  Experiment  Station,  Prof.  O.  B.  Whipple  gives  an 
interesting  account  of  the  parthenocarpic  development  (development 
without  fertilization)  of  apples,  most  of  which  were  seedless  and  core- 


APPLE    GROWING     IN    <   A  I.I  FOR  N  I  A. 


71 


.UK!  unfit  for  use  commercially.  It  is  a  very  common  tliinu  1" 
Hud  seedless  apples  or  pears  during  «'»  season  following  a  l'rcc/e  at 
hlnss-Miiiiiir  time  or  shortly  afterwards.  1-  i^.  1")  is  a  picture  of  two 
Yellow  Belltlowers  picked  from  Mr  same  t  ree.  One  apple  is  almost  true 
to  the  typ»-  <:f  this  particular  variety;  the  other  is  very  much  flattened 


.1   shaped  Yellow   B-lli lower  on  right,  abnormal  on  left  because  of 
frost  injury.      (Original) 


Fig.    4G. — Normal    sliap*  <1    Yellow    Bellflowt-r    «m    right    contains    well-developed   seeds; 
abnormal   frost-injured   specimen   on   lett   h;ss   none.      (Original) 

and  distorted.  .Most  of  the  apples  in  the  orchard  where  these  were 
picked  i-csembled  the  latter,  and  it  was  difficult  to  find  a  typical-shaped 
Yellow  BellHower.  All  apples  of  this  shape  were  seedless.  This  trouble 
might  easily  be  confused  with  distortion  of  apples  from  the  attack  of 


72  APPLE    GROWING    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

purple  apple  aphis.  This  pest  always  leaves  the  apples  small  and  mis- 
shapen, but  well-formed  seeds  are  present.  Fig.  46  shows  the  same  two 
apples  as  in  Fig.  45,  which  have  been  cut  open.  A  well-developed  seed 
is  shown  in  the  core  of  the  typical-shaped  apple,  while  the  other  one  has 
none. 

Another  form  of  injury  is  the  so-called  frost  russet  illustrated  in 
Fig.  47.  The  russeting  very  frequently  shapes  itself  in  a  band  about  the 
fruit,  but  in  some  cases  may  occur  in  the  calyx  and  stem  cavities.  This 
injury  is  very  commonly  confused  with  that  resulting  from  scab, 
Bordeaux  injury  and  various  other  things.  The  presence  of  the  charac- 
teristic bands  as  illustrated  is  a  sure  indication  of  frost  injury. 


Fig.  47 — Frost  russet  band  on  apples.      (Original) 
LEAF    INJURY. 

A  peculiar  crumpling  or  blistering  of  the  leaves  of  certain  varieties 
usually  follows  severe  spring  freezes.  The  epidermis  of  the  leaf  may 
separate  from  the  inside  portion  wherever  these  blisters  occur.  Such 
leaves  are  apt  to  turn  yellow  and  drop  very  early  in  the  season.  This 
form  of  injury  is  not  serious. 

SUSCEPTIBILIT%Y    OF    VARIETIES. 

Some  varieties  of  apples  will  stand  much  more  freezing  than  others. 
Again,  some  varieties  will  blossom  much  later  than  others,  thus  escaping 
a  frost  that  would  injure  earlier  blossoming  varieties.  It  is.  therefore, 
wise  for  the  orchardist  who  lives  in  sections  of  killing  spring  frosts 
to  select  the  hardiest,  and  in  some  cases  preference  should  be  given  to 
late  blooming  varieties.  As  an  illustration  of  this  fact  the  Rome  Beauty 
and  Rails  apples  blossom  much  later  than  the  Ben  Davis  and  Jona- 
than, consequently  often  escape  injury  when  the  latter  named  varieties 
are  killed  by  a  freeze  coming  about  blossoming  time. 


APPLE    GROWING     IN    CAf  JF(  >RXIA.  73 

FROST    PROTECTION. 

It  is  safe  to  say  that  the  orchard  which  is  well  cared  for  in  general  is 
less  liable  to  injury  from  freezing  than  the  one  which  is  neglected.  The 
first  point  which  should  be  emphasized,  then,  in  connection  with  protect- 
ing the  orchard  from  killing  frosts,  is  proper  care.  Cultivation,  prun- 
ing, fertilization,  irrinat ion  and  spraying  are  all  necessary  at  certain 
times  for  the  best  development  of  trees,  including  the  fruit  buds.  If 
the  buds  can  go  into  the  winter  in  perfect  condition,  there  is  every 
reason  to  believe  that  they  will  stand  more  than  they  would  if  devital- 
ized because  of  unhealthy  trees. 

SMUDGING. 

It  has  lon-j-  been  known  that  there  is  little  danger  from  killing  fr 
on  a  cloudy  niuht.  This  fact  has  led  to  a  belief  that  the  same  protection 
;*  {'forded  by  the  clouds  can  be  produced  artificially  by  means  of  smoke. 
With  this  idea  in  view,  various  materials  which  in  burning  will  pro- 
duce much  smoke,  have  been  burned  in  orchards  during  frosty  nights. 
This  method  of  protection  is  known  as  smudging,  and  is  fast  giving 
way  to  the  better  method  of  heating.  It  is  probable  that  light  frosts 
have  been  warded  off  by  means  of  such  smudges,  or  at  least  a  sufficient 
blanket  has  been  formed  over  an  orchard  in  the  early  morning  to  pre- 
vent the  rapid  thawing  of  the  blossoms  which,  it'  thawed  out  too  rapidly. 
are  sure  to  be  killed.  It  is  now  thought  that  smudging  in  itself  is  of 
little  value,  and  many  of  the  successful  orchard  heaters  now  in  use  are 
designed  to  utilize  as  much  of  the  fuel  as  possible;  the  more  complete 
the  combustion  the  better  they  are  thought  to  be. 

ORCHARD    HEATING. 

"While  there  are  still  many  problems  in  connection  with  orchard  heat- 
in. ir  yet  to  be  solved,  it  is  now  frenerally  conceded  that,  under  certain 
cnnditinns.  at  least,  a  crop  of  fruit — citrus  or  deciduous — can  be  saved, 
even  though  the  temperature  falls  as  much  as  fifteen  degrees  below 
ing.  During  spring  freezes  of  four  different  seasons  in  Colorado, 
the  writer  had  abundant  opportunity  to  study  the  various  operations 
of  the  orchard  heating  business  in  time  of  action,  and  the  effect  of 
such  heating  in  saving  fruit.  The  first  practical  demonstration  of  what 
could  he  accomplished  was  made  in  the  spring  of  1908.  Three  or  four 
different  parties  had  previously  purchased  some  of  the  Bolton  orchard 
heaters,  which  at  that  time  were  manufactured  in  California.  By  the 
use  of  these  small  lard-pail  pots,  as  they  were  called,  which  held  about 
three  quarts  of  oil,  these  men  succeeded  in  saving  a  considerable  amount 
of  fruit.  The  demonstration  was  a  perfect  one,  for  only  in  the  heated 
areas  was  there  any  fruit.  Before  this  time  there  were  orchards  in 
California  where  heaters  had  been  used.  The  Limoneira  Company  had 
done  considerable  work  along  this  line,  and  had  used  wire  baskets  for 
burning  coal  with  more  or  less  success.  The  fact  that  it  was  possible 
to  save  a  crop  of  fruit  by  burning  coal  or  oil  in  containers  led  to  the 
making  and  patenting  of  a  great  many  types  of  heaters,  practically 
any  one  of  which  will  do  the  work,  provided  that  the  necessary  amount 
of  fuel  is  burned.  Both  coal  and  oil  have  <riven  satisfaction,  but  the 
latter  is  preferred  by  most  orchardists.  in  California,  where  oil  is  so 


74  APPLE   GROWING   IN   CALIFORNIA. 

cheap  and  coal  is  so  high,  it  does  not  seem  as  though  any  one  would  be 
justified  in  purchasing  coal  heaters.  It  would  not  be  wise  to  recommend 
any  particular  make  of  heater  in  this  book.  In  general,  the  reservoir 
type  of  oil  heater  is  the  most  satisfactory.  One  can  scarcely  afford 
to  purchase  heaters  and  other  equipment  for  the  work  and  then  fail 
because  of  an  insufficient  supply  of  oil.  Of  course,  it  is  possible  to 
refill  small  heaters,  or  to  have  a  reserve  supply  of  them  on  hand,  but 
such  entails  extra  work  and  expense  at  time  of  heating  when  it  is  often 
hard  to  get  enough  help. 

PLACEMENT    OF    HEATERS    IN    ORCHARD. 

One  heater  for  each  tree  is  ordinarily  used.  These  heaters  are 
commonly  placed  in  the  center  of  the  rectangle  formed  by  four  trees. 

WHEN    TO    LIGHT. 

Firing  should  begin  before  the  temperature  has  reached  the  danger 
point,  the  object  being  to  keep  it  at  a  certain  point  rather  than  to  let 
it  drop  below  and  then  try  to  raise  it  again.  For  example,  it  is  much 
easier  to  maintain  a  temperature  of  thirty-two  degrees  when  the  outside 
temperature  is  twenty-five  degrees  than  it  is  to  raise  it  to  thirty-two 
degrees,  after  it  has  dropped  down  to  twenty-five  degrees.  While  fruit 
buds  or  blossoms  may  stand  this  temperature  for  a  short  time,  it  is  never 
safe  to  let  it  get  so  cold. 

KEEP    FIRING    WELL   AFTER    SUNRISE. 

Many  a  crop  of  fruit  has  been  lost  because  fuel  played  out,  or  because 
men  became  tired  or  careless  and  let  fires  go  down  at  daybreak.  The 
coldest  period  is  very  often  about  sunrise  and  the  heaviest  firing  is  neces- 
sary at  this  time. 

USE    ONLY   TESTED    THERMOMETERS. 

To  depend  upon  a  twenty-five  cent  thermometer  in  the  orchard  heat- 
ing business,  when  thousands  of  dollars  are  at  stake,  is  inexcusable  fool- 
ishness, and  yet  such  has  often  been  done.  Nothing  but  reliable,  tested 
thermometers  should  be  used  in  this  important  work.  Several  should  be 
used  and  placed  in  different  parts  of  the  orchard,  as  there  may  be  quite 
a  temperature  variation  in  a  short  distance.  Electric  alarms  may  be 
used,  but  it  is  more  satisfactory  in  actual  practice  to  have  reliable  men 
to  watch  the  thermometers  and  record  temperatures  every  few  minutes 
during  the  time  of  expected  freeze. 

SUCCESS  MEANS  HARD  WORK. 

Our  present  knowledge  of  frost  fighting  with  orchard  heaters  is  not 
such  that  it  can  be  recommended  under  all  conditions.  With  the  tem- 
peratures that  we  usually  have  during  the  period  of  spring  freezes  in 
California,  it  is  safe  to  say  that  the  man  who  is  willing  to  observe  all 
the  details,  and  who  is  not  afraid  of  the  hardest  kind  of  work,  will  suc- 
ceed. Not  every  man  who  has  orchard  heaters  does,  neither  does  every 
man  who  sprays  make  a  success  of  that  operation.  Orchard  heating,  if 
ills  done  at  all,  should  be  done  rightly,  or  else  all  labor  and  expense  may 
be  thrown  away.  No  one  who  is  looking  only  for  the  easy  jobs  should 
have  anything  to  do  with  this  work. 


AIMM.K    <;ROWI\<;     IN    ( '  Al  .1  K<  >KN  I  A.  75 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

SPRAYING  THE  APPLE. 

\Yhether  it  is  generally  believed  or  not,  it  is  nevertheless  true  that 
MI  exceedingly  heavy  loss  in  apples  cadi  season  could  be  largely  pre- 
vented by  proper  spraying,  and  \\hile  there  are  many  orehardUts  who 
spray  intelligent ly  and  who  <M  results,  there  are  others  who  spray 
with  little  or  no  knowledge  of  the  diseases  or  insect  pests  of  their  trees, 
and  little  mr.re  of  the  sprays  that  they  are  using.  The  first  thing  that 
the  apple  grower  should  do,  if  he  would  make  the  greatest  success  of 
his  business,  is  to  familiarize  himself  with  these  pests  and  diseases. 
It  may  seem  to  him  that  this  is  the  work  of  an  expert  and  he  should 
not  be  expected  to  know  anything  about  it.  There  is  no  question  but 
that  the  expert's  advice  and  help  should  be  solicited,  but  after  all  every 
one  must  know  his  own  orchard,  and  with  the  help  of  such  expert 
advice  as  he  may  be  able  to  get,  and  through  reading,  it  should  be  pos- 
sible to  learn  everything  that  need  be  known  about  the  insects  and 
diseases,  so  that  intelligent  methods  may  be  used  for  their  control. 

There  are  too  many  apple  growers  spraying  for  codling  moth,  not 
even  knowing  where  the  eggs  of  the  adult  insect  are  laid  or  what  they 
look  like ;  there  is  too  much  spraying  for  the  control  of  the  various 
species  of  plant  lice  without  a  thorough  knowledge  of  their  life  habits ; 
and  the  same  thing  holds  true  in  relation  to  apple  scab,  mildew  and 
other  affections  of  the  orchard.  To  illustrate,  I  have  talked  with 
seemingly  intelligent  growers  who  thought  that  the  arsenate  of  lead 
applied  for  the  control  of  codling  moth  would  kill  the  eggs.  Such 
ignorance  as  this  is,  of  course,  not  met  with  as  a  rule  among  our  fruit 
u  rowers,  for  it  may  be  said  to  their  great  credit  that  there  are  no  more 
intelligent  people  to  be  found  in  any  other  line  of  work;  but  one  can 
Mot  conceive  of  such  lack  of  knowledge  in  regard  to  a  pest  upon  which 
volumes  have  been  written  and  with  which  every  field  expert  in  an  apple 
section  is  familiar. 

The  writer  is  not  a  believer  in  promiscuous  hit  or  miss  spraying,  done 
usually  because  some  one  else  is  doing  likewise,  or  because  some  one  said 
that  the  trees  needed  treatment,  without  any  knowledge  of  what  was 
on  them  The  time  to  spray  an  apple  orchard  is  when  there  is  some- 
tin  IILT  on  the  trees  that  can  be  controlled  by  the  spray.  It  is  all  very 
well  to  talk  about  preventive  measures,  but  spraying  an  orchard  for 
woolly  aphis  with  a  nicotine  solution,  or  with  some  other  contact  spray, 
will  do  no  good  for  the  control  of  this  pest,  unless  it  is  actually  present. 
There  can  be  no  preventive  effect  in  this  case  and  yet  we  often  hear 
people  say:  "Well.  I  had  no  pests  on  these  trees  but  just  sprayed  to 
pn-vent  them  from  coming."  Again,  there  could  be  no  possible  value 
of  an  arsenical  spray  for  codling  moth  unless  the  pest  was  actually 
present  in  the  orchard.  There  are  isolated  orchards  of  a  considerable 
age  where  this  pest  has  never  occurred,  and  it  would  be  the  merest 
folly  to  attempt  to  prevent  its  coming  by  any  spraying  methods.  There 
are  also  young  orchards  in  sections  where  codling  moth  is  present  that 
may  not  be  troubled  for  a  few  years,  and  there  can  be  nothing  accom- 
plished in  spraying  them  until  the  moth  arrives.  It  is  always  a  good 


76  APPLE    GROWING    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

thing  to  keep  ahead  of  the  various  pests  and  spray  before  they  become 
too  bad,  but  spraying  costs  money,  so  much  that  it  is  often  done  poorly 
in  an  attempt  to  save  material,  and  too  much  emphasis  can  not  be 
placed  upon  the  necessity  for  orchardists  acquiring  sufficient  knowledge 
of  the  various  pests  and  diseases,  so  that  they  may  know  when  spraying 
need  not  be  done,  or  when  it  must  be  done  in  order  to  best  protect  the 
trees  or  crops.  Because  of  the  lack  of  knowledge  in  this  work  many 
have  advocated  a  certain  course  of  spraying  to  be  given  each  season 
regardless  of  condition  of  the  orchard  or  its  previous  record  with 
respect  to  the  pests.  There  may  be  sections  where  such  a  course  can 
be  outlined  and  followed  out  to  advantage,  but  orchards  differ  as  do 
individuals  or  groups  of  individuals,  and  what  one  requires  may  be 
absolutely  unnecessary  for  another,  so  after  all  the  owner  must  study 
his  orchard  and  learn  to  know  for  himself  what  is  best  for  it. 

Failure  to  control  the  various  pests  of  the  orchard  when  certain  of 
them  are  present  and  when  the  right  kind  of  an  insecticide  or  fungi- 
cide is  used,  is  more  often  due  to  lack  of  thoroughness  in  the  applica- 
tion than  to  everything  else.  The  writer  has  heard  orchardists,  time 
and  again,  condemn  certain  sprays  as  being  poor  when  they  themselves 
were  to  blame  for  the  poor  results  attained.  At  one  time  an  orchardist 
had  sprayed  some  young  apple  trees  with  Black  Leaf  "40,"-— 1-1000 — 
for  the  control  of  the  green  aphis  and  when  he  got  through  the  trees 
were  still  badly  infested.  He  immediately  complained  that  the  material 
used  wras  not  good.  An  investigation  of  the  orchard  showed  that  quite  a 
large  percentage  of  the  aphids  had  been  killed  but  that  there  were 
&till  enough  left  so  that  without  further  spraying  nothing  of  value 
would  have  been  accomplished.  For  the  purpose  of  a  demonstration  a 
few  trees  were  re-sprayed  with  a  drenching  rather  than  a  light  appli- 
cation. In  this  case  practically  one  hundred  per  cent  of  the  lice  were 
killed,  proving  that  the  spray  was  good  but  that  the  methods  of  appli- 
cation were  faulty.  When  we  stop  to  think  that  in  cases  of  this  kind 
the  time  and  material  is  often  thrown  awray,  whereas  a  little  more  care 
and  a  little  greater  thoroughness,  although  it  will  cost  more,  will  bring 
results,  there  is  little  excuse  for  hasty,  careless  work.  While  it  is 
possibly  not  a  good  thing  to  advocate  as  a  general  practice,  it  is  usually 
better,  from  a  financial  standpoint,  to  spray  one  half  of  an  orchard 
very  thoroughly  than  to  spray  the  whole  thing  for  possibly  the  same 
cost  and  slight  the  work.  In  the  first  case  a  good  crop  of  apples  may 
be  harvested  from  half  the  orchard,  while  in  the  second  the  loss  may 
be  total. 

A  few  years  ago  the  writer  sprayed  a  part  of  a  very  old  apple  orchard 
in  southern  Maryland,  which  had  not  received  a  spray  for  a  long  time, 
and  possibly  never.  The  apples  for  years  past  had  dropped  from  fung- 
ous and  codling  moth  attack.  In  this  case  probably  not  over  one  third 
of  the  orchard  was  sprayed,  by  the  use  of  a  barrel  pump  and  an  ox 
team,  but  for  the  first  time  in  years  it  produced  salable  fruit  which 
sold  for  a  big  price,  but  only  the  sprayed  trees  had  good  fruit.  This 
was  a  most  striking  example  of  the  possibility  of  protecting  even  a 
small  part  of  an  orchard  by  heavy  spraying.  When  negligent  orchard 
owners  can  be  made  to  see  the  value  of  heavy  spraying  by  starting 
in  first  on  a  small  portion  of  the  orchard  for  economy's  sake,  such  work 
will  often  lead  to  the  same  kind  of  spraying  over  large  areas. 


APPLE    GROWING    IN    CALIFORNIA.  <  < 

Thoroughness  in  spraying  implies  good  spraying  machinery  and 
equipment.  The  day  of  the  barrel  pump  is  practically  over  as  far  as 
the  commercial  orehardist  is  Concerned,  and  tin-  man  who  owns  five 
acres  of  apples  needs  a  power  sprayer.  For  a  smaller  acreage  the 
barrel  or  tank  pumps  may  still  be  used,  but  only  by  exercising  the 
greatest  of  rare  can  they  be  made  to  do  the  work  as  thoroughly  and  as 
effectively  as  the  power  outfit.  Our  modern  power  sprayers  have 
revolutionized  the  spraying  business  and  have  made  it  possible  to 
handle  a  much  greater  acreage  during  the  period  when  spraying  can 
be  most  effectively  done,  and  if  any  criticism  is  to  be  made  of  these 
machines  it  would  be  that  the  high  degree  of  efficiency  which  they 
possess  is  sometimes  depended  upon  too  much  and  the  men,  trusting  to 
the  machine  to  do  it  all,  become  careless.  While  it  is  true  that  with 
tlie  hiirh  pressure  which  it  is  possible  to  attain  trees  may  be  very 
quickly  sprayed,  there  is  a  tendency  to  hurry  too  much  and  the  work 
is  slighted. 

Most  of  our  power  sprayers  will  maintain  a  pressure  of  two  hun- 
dred pounds  with  ease,  while  with  the  old  fashioned  barrel  pump  or 
the  later  tank  pump  eighty  to  one  hundred  pounds  was  considered 
good.  Thorough  work  may  be  done  with  this  lower  pressure,  but  the 
time  required  and  the  care  necessary  are  greatly  increased.  It  is, 
however,  advantageous  to  have  the  higher  pressure  in  the  case  of  con- 
trol work  for  most  of  the  insects  of  the  apple. 

There  are  many  good  types  of  spraying  machines  on  the  market  and 
individual  likes  will  determine  which  is  to  be  purchased.  A  machine 
should  b«-  equipped  with  two  long  lines  of  hose,  at  least  fifty  feet  each, 
and  rods  at  least  eight  feet  in  length.  The  long  hose  will  enable  one 
t  around  trees  handily  and  the  long  rods  will  greatly  facilitate  the 
work  of  spraying.  Of  utmost  importance  in  the  equipment  are  good 
nozzles  \n  machine  can  be  expected  to  do  the  best  work  without  them. 

THE   PIPING  SYSTEM    FOR  SPRAYING. 

The  gn-at  Miccess  of  the  piping  system  used  by  a  few  California 
orchard  u rowers  indicates  the  possibility  of  this  latest  method  of  dis- 
tributing and  applying  the  sprays  to  our  trees  coming  into  general 
use.  Under  this  system  the  portable  tank  with  attached  pump  and 
gasoline  engine  is  done  away  with  and  instead  there  is  installed,  at  a 
convenient  place  in  the  orchard,  stationary  mixing  tanks  for  the  spray 
material  and  a  system  of  pumps  which  forces  the  spray  under  pressure 
throu.irh  leads  of  half  inch  galvanized  iron  pipes  buried  at  a  convenient 
depth  and  convenient  intervals  throughout  the  orchard.  Standpipes 
for  the  attachment  of  the  hose  are  connected  to  the  underground 
tern  at  such  distances  apart  as  are  necessary.  The  initial  cost  of  such  a 
system  is,  of  course,  considerable,  and  not  every  orchardist  can  afford 
its  installation.  The  great  saving  in  time  and  labor  during  the  work 
of  spraying,  the  ability  t«»  spray  an  orchard  when  the  ground  is  wet, 
and  the  possibility  of  so  much  more  effective  work,  make  the  system 
one  to  be  recommended. 

Instead  of  the  pipes  beinir  placed  permanently  below  ground  as  in 
the  Hay  ward  Reed  system.  n<ed  in  his  pear  orchard  near  Sacramento, 
a  modification  of  this  system  may  he  used.  At  Watsonville  the  latter 
may  he  ».-en  in  operation  and  consists  of  suitable  lengths  of  pipe  which 
at  the  time  of  sprayinir  an-  laid  on  the  surface  of  the  ground  between 


78  APPLE    GROWING    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

the  orchard  rows  and  the  liquid  spray  is  pumped  through  them  under 
a  high  pressure  from  a  central  pumping  plant  located  at  a  well  which 
furnishes  the  water  supply.  This  system  is  said  to  work  satisfactorily. 

It  is  the  firm  belief  of  the  writer  that  the  future  will  see  a  great 
many  of  our  better  orchards  sprayed  by  the  piping  system.  The  gaso- 
line powrer  outfit,  while  we  must  recognize  it  as  being  an  effective 
piece  of  machinery,  has  its  drawbacks  and  its  limitations.  An  engine 
mounted  on  a  truck  pulled  over  rough  ground  and  often  drenched  with 
caustic  sprays  can  not  be  kept  in  the  very  best  working  order  and  often 
the  fluctuation  in  pressure  is  responsible  for  variable  results  in  spray- 
ing. With  the  piping  system  engines  and  pumps  can  be  protected  in 
the  best  possible  manner,  spray  materials  can  be  much  more  conven- 
iently handled,  and  a  great  deal  of  the  present  dread  of  spraying  may 
be  removed.  The  spraying  of  large  apple  trees  is  not  any  easy  matter 
and  requires  so  much  material  that  one  power  sprayer  is  often  inade- 
quate to  handle  more  than  twenty-five  acres,  where  sprajdng  must  of 
necessity  be  done  quickly  to  get  the  desired  results.  For  instance, 
the  calyx  spray  for  codling  moth  must  be  done  during  a  period  of 
little  more  than  a  week,  if  complete  calyx  control  be  assured.  In  a 
twenty-five  acre  apple  orchard,  with  seventy  trees  to  the  acre,  there 
would  be  seventeen  hundred  and  fifty  trees.  If  they  are  large,  a  two 
hundred  gallon  tank  will  not  thoroughly  spray  over  fourteen  trees ; 
that  is,  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  tanks  of  spray  would  be  required 
for  such  a  twenty-five  acre  orchard.  It  is  considered  to  be  a  good  day 's 
work  to  put  on  ten  tanks  of  spray,  so  twelve  and  one  half  days  at  this 
rate  would  be  required  to  spray  twenty-five  acres.  It  is  with  a  full 
realization  of  being  disputed  and  possibly  ridiculed  for  these  figures 
that  they  are  published,  but  it  is  only  asked  that  a  careful  investigation 
of  the  many  failures  to  get  results  in  spraying  be  carefully  made  by 
those  who  would  disbelieve  them,  and  a  full  assurance  of  their  approxi- 
mate correctness  is  undoubted. 

Before  closing  this  chapter  on  spraying,  a  few  words,  treating  of 
the  importance  of  the  "man  behind  the  gun"  should  not  be  omitted, 
for  the  very  best  equipment  may  be  of  little  value  with  careless,  irre- 
sponsible men  entrusted  with  the  work  of  spraying.  The  most  impor- 
tant men  in  a  spraying  crew  are  those  who  hold  the  rods  and  direct  the 
spray  upon  the  trees.  Their  sight  must  be  keen,  they  must  be  active 
and  alert,  and  they  can  not  be  thinking  of  other  things  continually 
and  do  a  good  job  of  spraying,  for  this  usually  means  the  thorough 
wetting  of  every  portion  of  a  tree;  and  how  easy  it  is  to  slight  the 
work  just  enough  to  defeat  the  object  of  the  spray.  Men  who  hold 
spray  rods  should  be  gifted  with  enough  intelligence,  at  least,  so  that 
they  could  be  made  to  know  that  upon  the  manner  in  which  they  do 
their  work  will  depend  the  success  or  failure  of  the  spraying  operation. 

Recently  while  watching  some  Chinamen  spray  an  orchard  for  the 
control  of  codling  moth,  it  was  noticed  that  they  had  no  conception 
of  thoroughness  and  apparently  no  realization  of  the  important  part 
they  were  playing  in  the  work.  Upon  trying  to  explain  to  them  that 
the  work  should  be  more  thoroughly  done  they  seemed  quite  indignant 
that  any  one  from  the  outside  should  attempt  to  show  them  anything. 
If  this  important  job  must  be  entrusted  to  the  poorest  amonii1  unskilled 
laborers,  their  instructions  should  at  least  be  so  complete  that  the  work 
niiirht  not  suffer. 


APPLE    GROWING    IN    CALIFORNIA.  79 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

INSECT  PESTS  OF  THE  APPLE. 

CODLING   MOTH. 

AN  failure  to  control  the  codling  moth  means  failure  to  make  a 
financial  success  of  the  apple  business,  a  full  discussion  of  this  most 
serious  of  all  apple  pests  seems  necessary  in  a  work  of  this  nature. 

The  annual  loss  in  fruit  from  this  pest  is  tremendous  and  could  we 
secure  accurate  figures  they  would  be  startling.  Practically  every  apple 
umwer  has  at  some  time  or  other  paid  it  toll  in  apples  destroyed,  and 
others  have  allowed  their  crops  to  go  year  after  year  without  making 
any  effort  to  save  them.  Despite  the  fact  that  it  is  so  common  and  so 
destructive  a  pest,  it  is  one  that  is  largely  under  our  control  and  any 
oivhardist  who  is  willing  to  use  brains  in  fighting  it  is  going  to  meet 
with  success.  It  is  true,  however,  that  the  codling  moth  sometimes  gets 
so  bad  in  a  locality  that  one  or  two  seasons  of  most  careful  and  heavy 
spraying  are  needed  to  reduce  its  numbers  to  a  point  where  control  will 
be  comparatively  easy.  Again,  its  control  may  in  some  cases  be  a  com- 
munity problem,  where  all  must  join  in  the  fight  if  they  would  succeed 
themselves  or  protect  their  neighbors.  It  is  not  known  just  how  far  the 
moths  will  fly,  but  surely  from  an  orchard  on  one  side  of  a  road  to  one 
on  the  other.  Thus  one  may  have  to  fight  harder  because  of  the  negli- 
gence of  a  neighbor  who  fails  to  spray. 

How  the  Pest  Spends  the  Winter. 

A  knowledge  of  the  wintering  habits  of  an  insect  is  sometimes  a 
valuable  thing  in  connection  with  its  control.  In  this  case  we  have  a 
pest  that  winters  in  such  a  way  that  something,  but  not  all,  may  be  done 
toward  its  control  during  the  winter  or  dormant  season.  After  the  full 
grown  second  brood  larvae  leave  the  apples  in  the  fall  or  winter  they 
secrete  themselves  under  the  loose  bark  of  trees  in  the  orchard,  in  cracks 
between  boards  in  packing  or  storage  houses,  in  fact  almost  anywhere 
that  they  can  find  hiding  places.  As  a  majority  of  the  wormy  apples 
usually  fall  to  the  ground  before  picking  time,  the  worms  in  them  that 
may  escape  can  readily  reach  trees  where  hiding  places  may  be  found. 
\Yry  frequently,  however,  they  leave  the  apples  while  they  are  still 
1] a  Hiring  to  the  trees,  and  crawl  down  the  limbs  and  trunk  until  suitable 
quarters  are  discovered.  When  such  are  found  the  larva?  immediately 
l><"_:in  the  construction  of  little  cocoons  of  silk,  which  when  completed 
form  a  protection  against  the  weather  and  enemies  that  might  prey  upon 
Them.  In  this  cocoon  they  remain  as  full  grown  apple  worms  or  larvae 
throughout  the  entire  winter  season,  and  never  can  they  be  found  in 
any  other  stage  during  this  time.  By  scraping  off  the  loose  bark  on 
old  trees,  in  particular,  frequently  large  numbers  of  these  hibernating 
larva?  may  be  destroyed.  Such  should  always  be  done  when  an  attempt 
is  being  made  to  control  the  pest  in  an  orchard  or  collection  of  orchards, 
where  spraying  has  been  neglected  until  the  codling  moth  has  become  so 
abundant  as  to  make  spraying  work  more  or  less  ineffective. 


80  APPLE    GROWING    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

The  natural  mortality  due  to  weather  conditions  during  the  winter 
time  is  sometimes  great,  but  varies  from  season  to  season.  The  numbers 
that  survive  until  spring  to  develop  into  moths  have  an  important  bear- 
ing on  the  ease  or  difficulty  with  which  this  insect  may  be  controlled. 
If  a  winter  season  is  such  that  seventy-five  per  cent  of  the  worms  which 
began  hibernation  in  the  fall  transform,  the  females  to  lay  eggs  in  the 
spring,  it  would  be  expected  that  a  much  more  serious  condition  would 
result,  providing  no  spraying  were  done,  than  if  only  ten  per  cent  had 
lived  through.  As  the  number  of  larvae  that  are  present  in  the  spring 
will  determine  largely  the  number  of  applications  of  spray  that  are 
necessary,  and  as  a  superabundance  may  mean  the  loss  of  a  great  many 
apples,  no  matter  how  carefully  the  work  of  spraying  is  done,  too  much 
attention  cannot  be  paid  to  destroying  the  larvae  during  the  winter 
season,  beneath  bands  put  on  trees  as  traps  in  the  summer,  and -in  every 
way  possible  to  reduce  their  numbers  to  the  minimum. 

The  Pupal  Stage. 

When  the  warm  weather  of  spring  comes  on  the  larvae  which  have 
survived  the  winter  begin  to  pupate,  and  in  the  cocoons  may  be  found 
little  brown,  footless,  quiescent  creatures,  not  able  to  move  about,  and 
.aside  from  a  slight  movement  of  the  portion  corresponding  to  the  abdo- 
men of  the  adult  which  will  soon  emerge,  they  are  immobile.  This  stage 
may  last  several  weeks  in  the  spring,  but  in  the  case  of  first  brood 
pupae  it  averages  about  two  weeks.  From  this  stage  there  develops  the 
mature  winged  moths,  the  females  of  which,  after  mating,  begin  egg 
laying. 

The  Moth  Stage. 

No  orchardist  who  grows  apples  can  reasonably  find  any  excuse  for 
not  knowing  the  appearance  of  the  codling  moth,  and  yet  there  are  those 
who  are  apt  to  mistake  almost  any  kind  of  a  common  cutworm  moth  for 
this  destructive  species.  A  few  mature  larvae  or  pupae,  collected  and 
put  in  a  pasteboard  box  any  time  during  the  spring  or  summer  season, 
will  develop  into  moths  and  the  characteristic  appearance  may  then  be 
noted.  They  are  gray  in  color  with  distinct  yellowish,  almost  gold 
colored  spots  near  the  tips  of  fore  wings  and  a  wing  expanse  of  not  over 
three  fourths  of  an  inch.  The  characteristic  yellow  markings  make  this 
species  readily  distinguishable  from  practically  all  others,  and  yet  we 
find  men  who  should  know  better,  trapping  moths  by  lights,  mostly  cut- 
worm species,  and  claiming  that  they  are  destroying  the  codling  moths. 

The  Egg  Stage. 

Contrary  to  the  general  opinion  codling  moth  eggs  are  not  hard  to 
find  when  one  learns  what  they  look  like  and  where  to  look  for  them. 
They  are  laid  singly  on  the  foliage  or  fruit,  and  rarely  on  the  twigs.  If 
found  on  the  former,  in  practically  every  case  they  will  be  found  on  the 
upper  or  smooth  surface  of  a  leaf  and  almost  always  close  to  an  apple 
or  cluster  of  apples.  The  moths  seem  to  possess  an  instinct  which 
prompts  them  to  lay  these  eggs  where  the  little  worms,  upon  hatching 
from  them,  will  have  little  trouble  in  locating  some  of  their  food — the 
fruit,  In  shape  the  eggs  are  almost  circular  and  very  flat,  adhering 
closely  to  the  surface  of  a  leaf,  or  apple.  The  diameter  is  about  that 
of  the  head  of  an  ordinary  pin.  On  the  surface  there  is  more  or  less 


APPLE    GROWING    IN    CALIFORNIA.  81 

of  a  wrinkled  or  roughened  appearance.  The  color  at  first  is  creamy 
white.  In  a  few  days — three  or  four — a  reddish  ring  may  be  plainly 
seen  within  the  shell.  This  rin_r  marks  the  position  of  the  embryonic 
larva  developing  within.  Before  hatching,  which  normally  takes  place 
about  the  seventh  day,  there  may  be  seen  a  black  spot  near  one  side  of 
the  egg.  This  spot  is  simply  the  black  head  of  the  little  worm  within 
and  indicates  that  hatchini:  time  has  arrived.  The  thin  white  shells  of 
hatched  eggs  may  cling  to  leaves  or  fruit  for  some  time  and  can  be  seen 
in  any  orchard  where  codling  moth  is  at  all  bad,  during  the  summer 
season. 

Control. 

A  very  large  per  cent  of  the  first  brood  larva  begin  feeding  in  the 
<-alyx  end  of  the  apple,  the  number  varying  somewhat  with  seasons, 
locality  and  variety,  and  estimated  by  scientific  workers  to  be  from 
seventy-five  to  ninety-five  per  cent  of  the  total  brood.  In  the  case  of 
the  second  brood  quite  a  large  percentage  also  enters  the  calyx,  but  as 
the  fruit  is  large  when  they  come  on  there  is  a  better  chance  for  the 
little  worms  to  enter  elsewhere,  and  quite  a  good  many  bore  into  the 
fruit  through  the  stem  cavity  or  somewhere  on  the  side.  This  fact, 
coupled  with  the  important  one  bearing  on  it,  that  sprays  must  be 
applied  to  coat  the  entire  surfaces  of  the  apples,  makes  it  of  the  utmost 
importance  to  devote  every  energy  toward  killing  practically  the  entire 
first  brood,  so  that  the  second  as  a  consequence  must  be  small. 

The  fact  that  so  great  a  percentage  of  the  first  brood  of  worms  seeks 
the  calyx  as  soon  as  hatched  has  resulted  in  the  standard  method  of 
control  for  this  pest,  viz :  a  heavy  spraying  with  some  arsenical  insecti- 
cide when  the  petals  are  practically  all  off  and  before  the  calyx  lobes 
have  dosed. 

Spray  to  Use. 

The  most  satisfactory  and  widely  used  arsenical  spray  for  codling 
moth  is  arsenate  of  lead.  It  is  made  in  both  the  paste  and  powdered 
form,  the  first  mentioned  being  used  more  generally  than  the  second. 
Other  arsenicals  that  may  be  substituted  for  the  arsenate  of  lead  are 
arsenite  of  zinc  and  Paris  green.  The  arsenite  of  zinc  is  a  good  poison, 
but  has  not  given  general  satisfaction  because  of  its  liability  to  burn 
fruit  and  foliage.  It  is.  however,  used  considerably  for  the  first  or  calyx 
sprayinir.  as  little  damage  seems  to  result  from  its  application  at  this 
time.  Later  applications  are  dangerous.  Paris  green,  when  substituted 
for  these  others,  should  be  applied  with  milk  of  lime  in  small  quantities, 
to  prevent  burning. 

Strength  of  Spray. 

A  is. nate  of  lead  in  the  paste  form  should  contain  from  12  to  17  per 
cent  arsenic  oxide.  Three  or  four  pounds  of  this  paste  to  100  gallons  of 
\\atcr  is  of  sufficient  strength  to  kill  the  larvae.  It  is  probably  a  good 
plan  to  increase  the  strength  somewhat  for  the  later  sprajdngs,  applied 
for  the  purpose  of  coating  the  fruit.  The  powdered  form  of  lead 
arsenate  contains  about  double  the  amount  of  arsenic  oxide  per  pound, 
hence  only  one  half  as  much  is  necessary  for  a  given  amount  of  water. 
The  same  is  true  of  zinc  arsenite.  Paris  green  should  be  used  at  the 
strength  of  one  and  one  half  pounds  to  200  gallons  of  water,  with  the 
addition  of  about  ten  pounds  of  strained  milk  of  lime. 


82 


APPLE    GROWING    IN    CALIFORNIA. 


The  strength  of  spray  to  use  as  given  in  this  publication  is  less  than 
the  manufacturers  of  arsenicals  usually  recommend.  It  has  been  proven 
by  careful  experiments  that  the  amount  given  is  ample  and  special 
emphasis  should  be  laid  upon  the  necessity  of  putting  the  spray  where 
it  belongs.  It  matters  not  how  strong  a  spray  is  used,  it  can  do  no  good 
unless  it  is  placed  where  the  worms  will  feed  upon  it.  Time  and 
again  in  the  writer's  experience  have  orchardists  been  known  to  condemn 
the  spray  as  faulty,  when  they  themselves  were  to  blame  because  of 
their  careless  methods  of  application. 

How  to  Apply  Spray. 

It  seems  almost  superfluous  to  say  anything  about  how  to  apply  a 
spray,  but  after  all  there  is  much  to  learn  before  the  beginner  can  become 
expert.  The  tendency  is  always  to  use  too  little  spray,  thus  slighting  the 
work.  In  making  the  application  for  codling  moth,  thoroughness  is  the 
keynote  to  success  and  anything  that  will  bring  it  about  is  desirable. 


Fig.   48. — Apples    on    the    left   just    right    to    spray;    calyces   are    too   nearly    closed   on 
apples  shown  on  right  for  the  most  effective  work.      (After  Quaintance) 

Only  the  most  careful  help  should  be  engaged,  and  men  should  be 
trained  to  do  the  work  so  that,  when  a  tree  is  finished,  they  know  that 
they  have  sprayed  it  from  every  angle.  This  necessitates  walking 
entirely  around  a  tree.  Spraying  that  is  done  from  one  side  only 
cannot  be  thorough  and  is  of  little  real  value.  There  is  a  tendency  for 
sprayers  to  hold  the  nozzle  too  close  to  the  limbs  and,  as  a  consequence, 
the  tips  are  very  often  missed.  While  a  tree  must  be  sprayed  on  the 
inside,  it  must  not  be  neglected  on  the  outside,  and  by  holding  the 
nozzle  two  or  three  feet  back  from  the  extremities  of  the  longest 
branches,  as  the  tree  is  encircled  during  spraying,  there  can  be  little  of 
the  surface  missed.  In  all  spraying  work  for  coddling  moth  the  appa- 
ratus should  be  of  the  best.  Long  rods  with  forty-five  degree  angles  on 
the  tips,  and  a  driving  spray  with  high  pressure,  will  greatly  facilitate 
the  work. 

First  Spraying. 

There  are  few  orchardists  who  have  had  experience  in  spraying  for 
the  control  of  this  troublesome  insect  the  country  over,  who  will  discount 
the  value  of  the  calyx  spray.  This  must  be  applied  before  the  calyx 


APPLE    GROWING    IN     ( 'AI.I  K<  >R.\IA.  83 

cii])s  close  and  fortunately  there  is  a  period  of  a  week  or  more  with 
most  varieties  of  apples,  after  the  blossoms  fall,  when  the  e;ilyees  are 
open,  and  a  few  rare  cases  where  they  never  close  tight.  Varieties,  soil 
and  climatie  conditions  bring  about  this  variation.  Knowing  that  a  large 
percentage  of  the  first  brood  worms  enter  by  way  of  the  calyx,  and  that 
•  •very  one  that  escapes  being  killed  by  the  first  spray  and  develops  into 
a  moth  of  the  second  brood — which  if  a  female  may  lay  seventy-five 
eggs  to  hatch  into  second  brood  worms — we  cannot  be  too  careful  in  mak- 
ing the  first  application.  The  aim  should  be  to  fill  every  calyx  cup  with 
the  liquid,  which,  upon  evaporating,  will  leave  a  deposit  of  insoluble 
arsenic  to  remain  in  and  protect  the  apple  throughout  the  entire  season. 
Kv.-ry  sprayer  should  test  the  efficiency  of  his  work  by  examining 
trees,  after  he  thinks  they  have  been  well  sprayed,  and  see  if  there  are 
any  calyces  that  are  dry  and  have  not  been  touched  by  the  spray.  If 
this  is  done  one  will  soon  realize  how  exceedingly  hard  it  is  to  fill  every 
cup.  As  many  of  the  blossoms  point  upward,  spraying  from  a  tower  is 
often  practiced  and  is  a  decided  advantage  when  trees  are  large. 

As  varieties  of  apples  differ  as  to  the  time  of  blooming,  there  is  fre- 
quently trouble  experienced  in  getting  the  spray  on  trees  of  certain 
kinds  at  the  proper  time.  This  trouble  is  greatly  exaggerated  in  our 
older  orchards,  where  many  varieties  have  been  planted  and  where  there 
may  be  great  differences  in  their  blooming  habits.  It  is  not  serious  in 
orchards  of  large  blocks  of  a  few  varieties,  for  those  that  bloom  first  can 
be  sprayed  first  and  the  others  will  probably  be  in  good  condition  imme- 
diately afterwards.  Climatic  conditions  are  sometimes  such  that  the 
blossoms  of  a  given  variety  do  not  come  out  evenly.  Where  such  is  the 
case  a  double  application  should  be  made  for  the  calyx  in  order  that  the 
greatest  efficiency  may  result.  If  this  repeat  spray  is  found  to  be 
necessary  it  should  be  applied  from  a  week  to  ten  days  after  the  first 
or  regular  calyx  spray,  when  the  majority  of  the  blossoms  have  fallen. 

Second  Spraying. 

Already  two  sprayings  have  been  mentioned,  but  in  actual  practice 
the  second  calyx  application  is  not  usually  found  to  be  necessary.  The 
regular  second  application,  which  it  is  never  safe  to  omit  if  codling  moth 
is  at  all  hard  to  control,  should  be  made  about  three  weeks  after  the 
first.  At  this  time  there  may  still  be  a  few  of  the  calyces  open,  and  it 
will  have  some  value  as  a  calyx  spray.  Its  chief  value  lies  in  the  fact 
that  it  is  applied  at  a  time  when  the  worms  are  beginning  their  work, 
and  many  may  be  killed  on  the  sides  of  little  apples  which  will,  at  this 
time,  receive  a  coating  of  the  arsenical. 

Third  Spraying. 

A  third  application  two  weeks  after  the  second  is  often  desirable  to 
supplement  the  work  of  the  latter.  The  little  apples  grow  very  rapidly 
when  they  once  become  set,  and  difficulty  is  experienced  in  keeping  a 
protecting  coat  of  spray  over  a  large  part  of  the  surface.  As  the  apples 
grow,  the  individual  particles  of  arsenate  of  lead  become  correspond- 
ingly farther  apart  and  the  worms  have  a  better  chance  to  gain 
entrance.  The  third  regular  application  will  be  put  on  at  a  time  when 
the  hatching  of  first  brood  worms  is  about  at  its  maximum;  hence  it 
is  a  very  desirable  spray  during  seasons  of  an  abundance  of  codling 
moth. 


84  APPLE    GROWING    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

Fourth  Spraying. 

Generally  speaking,  three  sprays  are  sufficient  to  control  the  codling 
moth,  provided  that  they  have  been  rightly  timed  and  thoroughly 
applied.  The  writer  has  known  of  many  cases,  however,  of  serious  in- 
festation where  this  spray  and  another  following  could  be  made  to  pay. 
They  are  only  necessary  when  the  pest  becomes  overly  abundant  because 
of  previous  seasons'  neglect.  -When  applied,  this  spray  should  be  put 
on  about  fifty  days  after  the  second  regular  application.  The  latter 
was  put  on  about  the  time  when  the  first  brood  of  eggs  were  beginning 
to  hatch,  and  as  the  second  will  begin  approximately  fifty  days  from 
this  time,  or  in  other  words,  as  it  takes  the  insect  seven  weeks  to  undergo 
all  its  transformations  in  a  brood,  the  spray  is  timed  to  the  hatching  of 

the  first  of  the  second  brood. 

_ 

Fifth  Spraying. 

This  application  is  simply  to  supplement  the  fourth  and  should  be 
applied  about  two  weeks  later.  Its  use  will  insure  a  better  coating  of 
lead  arsenate  on  the  apples  and  thus  bring  about  greater  efficiency  in 
killing  worms. 

; 

Other   Control    Measures. 

Generally  speaking,  careful  attention  to  spraying  will  bring  about 
complete  control  of  codling  moth.  Conditions  may  become  such  through 
neglect  or  otherwise,  that  something  else  must  be  done  to  reduce  the 
numbers  of  the  pest  sufficiently  for  effective  spraying.  To  illustrate,  the 
writer  once  sprayed  an  orchard  where  codling  moth  was  so  abundant 
that  one  tree  left  without  spraying  had  only  seventeen  per  cent  of  the 
fruit  sound  at  picking  time.  Five  sprayings  in  this  orchard,  all  heavily 
and  carefully  done,  were  necessary,  but  even  after  all  this  spraying  a 
considerable  percentage  of  the  apples  were  actually  wormy,  or  were 
specked  where  worms  had  attempted  to  eat  in  and  were  killed.  In  such 
cases  as  this,  cloth  bands  of  burlap  or  other  material,  placed  about  the 
trunks  of  the  trees  about  June  first  and  removed,  and  all  worms  under- 
neath killed  every  ten  days  until  apples  are  picked,  would  result  in  such 
a  reduction  of  the  worms  that  the  second  brood  would  be  less  trouble- 
some and  fewer  worms  would  go  into  winter  quarters.  Burlap  bands 
should  be  of  three  thicknesses,  about  five  inches  wide,  and  may  be  held 
in  place  with  thumb  tacks. 

Removal  of  rough  bark  on  old  trunks  is  always  desirable,  as  many 
larva?  hibernate  underneath. 

Packing-houses  frequently  serve  as  harboring  places  for  worms,  which 
crawl  from  apples  brought,  in  for  packing  or  storage.  These  may  find 
cracks  between  boards,  boxes  or  rubbish  of  any  kind  in  which  to  spin 
cocoons  and  pass  the  winter.  Screening  of  such  houses  to  prevent  the 
exit  of  moths  in  the  spring  is  sometimes  desirable. 

APHIDS  AFFECTING  THE   APPLE. 
The  Woolly  Aphis  of  the  Apple. 

(Eriosoma  lanigera.) 

This  very  common  and  destructive  pest  is  so  well  known  to  every 
apple  grower  that  it  hardly  seems  necessary  to  go  into  details  regarding 
it.  Not  only  is  it  common,  but  it  is  also  one  of  our  hardest  pests  to 


APPLE   GROWING   IN    CALIFORNIA.  85 

control.  Its  name  is  derived  from  the  fact  that  the  purplish  body 
of  the  adult  louse  is  covered  with  a  wool-like,  waxy  excretion.  When 
once  an  orchard  becomes  badly  infested  it  is  only  with  extreme  difficulty 
that  this  insect  may  be  checked  in  its  ravages. 

The  woolly  aphis  works  both  above  and  below  ground.  The  damage 
to  the  roots  consists  in  a  roughening  or  knotting  of  the  surface,  with 
the  result  of  more  or  less  decay  and  destruction  of  fibrous  roots  in  bad 
cases.  The  winter  season  is  spent  by  the  lice  both  on  the  branches  and 
trunks  above  ground  and  on  the  roots  below  the  surface.  During  the 
summer  months  a  migration  is  taking  place  from  roots  to  branches  and 
vice  versa,  throughout  the  time  of  active  feeding,  with  usually  a  more 
general  migration  in  the  early  spring  and  late  fall.  One  winged  gen- 
t-ration develops  during  a  season,  and  this  in  the  fall.  These  winged 
lice  are  all  viviparous  females  and  give  birth  to  sexual  males  and 
females,  the  latter  of  which  each  deposits  a  single  large  egg.  It  is  now 
thought  that  migration  takes  place  from  the  apple  to  the  elm,  and  that 
the  eggs  are  deposited  on  the  latter,5  as  the  eggs  cannot  be  found  on  the 
apple  trees,  though  search  has  been  made  for  them  there  time  and  again. 

Control. 

When  damaging  trees  above  ground  this  aphis,  like  others  of  its  kind, 
may  be  readily  killed  by  a  spray  of  Black  Leaf  "40"  and  soap,  using 
the  former  at  the  strength  of  one  gallon  to  1000  gallons  of  water  and 
about  5  pounds  of  soap  to  100  gallons  of  water.  They  are  not  at  all 
hard  to  kill  with  this  mixture  when  it  comes  in  direct  contact  with  their 
bodies.  In  order  to  make  it  do  so  a  high  pressure  and  a  driving  spray  is 
necessary.  In  small  orchards  we  have  known  this  pest  to  have  been  kept 
in  check,  in  the  early  spring,  by  the  application  of  coal  oil  by  means  of  a 
brush,  to  colonies  located  in  cracks,  knot  holes,  etc.,  as  they  colonized 
after  migrating  from  the  roots. 

rnderground  treatment  has  been  on  the  whole  unsatisfactory.  In  the 
case  of  small  trees,  tobacco  dust  or  a  spray  of  Black  Leaf  "40"  and 
soap  to  the  bared  roots  may  be  quite  effective.  For  larger  trees  the  treat- 
incut  is  not  practical,  as  the  aphids  follow  the  roots  to  their  extremities, 
especially  if  they  are  shallow. 

Deep  rooting  of  apple  trees  is  desirable,  because  of  the  tendency  of 
this  pest  to  attack  the  shallow  roots  most  severely,  as  well  as  for  other 
good  reasons. 

Resistant  Varieties. 

Some  varieties  of  trees  possess  more  or  less  resistance  to  the  attack  of 
\\oollv  aphis.  The  Northern  Spy  probably  is  more  nearty  immune  than 
any  other  variety  and  for  that  reason  the  roots  are  very  often  used  for 
propagating  purposes. 

Natural   Enemies. 

Lacewing  flies,  syrphid  flies,  and  ladybird  beetles  frequently  keep  this 
pest  in  check.  There  is  no  more  effective  predaceous  enemy  in  this 
case  than  the  lacewings,  and  exceedingly  had  infestations  over  large 
areas  have  been  seen  destroyed  in  a  couple  of  weeks  time  by  them.  A 
little  internal  parasite,  aphelinus  mali,  is  sometimes  a  considerable  factor 
in  its  control. 


'See  Bui.  217,  Maine  Exp.  Sta. — Edith  M.  Patch. 


86  APPLE    GROWING   IN    CALIFORNIA. 

The   Green   Apple  Aphis. 

(Aphis  pomi.) 

The  little  shiny  black,  oblong  eggs  on  the  new  growth  of  apple  twigs 
during  the  winter  season,  have  been  seen  by  practically  every  apple 
orchardist.  These  are  the  eggs  of  the  green  apple  aphis,  laid  there  by 
a  small  green  plant  louse  in  the  fall.  As  the  buds  begin  to  open  in  the 
spring  these  eggs  hatch  and  the  little  dark  green  colored  lice  immediately 
begin  feeding  upon  the  new  growth.  These  first  spring  lice,  which 
hatched  from  the  overwintering-  eggs,  are  known  as  stem-mothers. 
When  they  become  mature  after  a  couple  of  weeks  of  feeding  they  give 
birth  to  living  young  of  a  second  generation.  These  in  turn  do  likewise, 
and  a  number  of  generations  are  developed  throughout  the  season. 
Many  individuals  after  the  second  generation  develop  wings,  and  thus 
may  fly  about  from  tree  to  tree  and  orchard  to  orchard,  spreading  the 
infestation.  In  the  fall  true  males  and  females  are  developed.  These 
are  wingless  and  may  be  distinguished  from  the  agamic  forms  by  their 
color,  which  is  yellow  instead  of  dark  green.  The  females  deposit  the 
eggs  previously  described.  Their  injury  is  done  principally  to  the 
leaves,  although  in  bad  cases  the  fruit  and  even  tender  twigs  may  be 
attacked.  The  sap  is  sucked  from  the  parts  upon  which  feeding  takes 
place.  A  curling  of  the  leaves  is  a  good  sign  of  the  presence  of  this  in- 
sect. Ants  feed  abundantly  upon  the  excrement  or  honeydew,  and  are 
always  present  in  annoying  numbers  when  infestation  occurs.  Pear, 
quince  and  hawthorn  are  subject  to  attack,  as  well  as  the  apple. 

A  thorough  spraying  with  Black  Leaf  "40"  and  soap,  at  the  strength 
recommended  for  woolly  aphis,  or  distillate  or  oil  emulsion  in  the  spring 
when  eggs  are  hatching,  is  effective.  Any  of  these  sprays  may  be  used 
later  in  the  season  to  advantage.  Lime  sulphur,  1  part  to  10  parts  of 
water,  is  supposed  to  possess  some  virtue  as  a  dormant  spray  for  the  eggs. 
Observations  made  in  Colorado  by  the  Avriter  did  not  justify  its  use, 
except  when  it  was  put  on  just  as  the  eggs  were  beginning  to  hatch 
early  in  the  spring.  If  applied  before  hatching  time  it  may  have  some 
virtue,  but  results  attained  have  been  variable. 

The  Purple  Apple  Aphis. 

(Aphis  sorbi.) 

This  is  without  doubt  the  most  serious  aphid  pest  of  the  apple,  as  far 
as  their  effect  upon  the  fruit  is  concerned.  Like  the  green  apple  aphis, 
they  spend  the  winter  in  the  form  of  small  black  eggs  on  apple  trees, 
which  hatch  very  early  in  the  spring.  Almost  before  the  buds  have 
begun  to  swell  perceptibly,  the  little  blackish  colored  lice  may  be  seen 
hanging  on  the  outside  waiting  for  them  to  open.  Feeding  begins  imme- 
diately upon  the  bursting  of  the  buds.  After  about  three  weeks'  time 
these  stem-mothers  have  become  mature  and  reproduction  without  egg- 
laying  begins. 

The  second  generation  is  purplish  in  color,  the  lice  being  covered  with 
a  powdery  secretion.  Feeding  takes  place  very  generally  on  the  leaves, 
close  to  the  clusters  of  young  apples,  and  more  rarely  on  the  apples 
themselves,  which  are  injured  to  such  an  extent  that  they  become  stunted 
and  not  only  fail  to  mature,  but  are  distorted  so  badly  that  the  variety 
may  not  be  recognizable. 


APPLE    GROWING    IX    CALIFORNIA.  87 

During  the  month  of  June,  according  to  O.  E.  Bremner,  wings  are 
developed  and  a  migration  takes  place  from  the  apple  to  some  interme- 
diate host,  which  has  not  yet  been  discovered.  The  writer  has  observed 
this  habit  of  the  louse  in  Colorado,  and  H.  F.  Wilson  reports  that  a 
similar  migration  takes  place  in  Oregon.  Mr.  Bremner,  who  has  done 
more  work  <>n  this  species  in  California  than  any  one  else,  states  that 
he  has  found  the  aphis  on  careless  weed  (Amaranhis  retroflexus) ,  but 
does  not  ivfx.rt  having  found  it  colonizing  or  feeding  upon  this  plant. 

In  the  fall  winged  lice  return  to  the  apple  and  produce  sexual  forms, 
the  females  of  which  lay  eggs  for  the  perpetuation  of  the  species. 

Control. 

The  very  early  hatching  of  the  eggs  makes  it  necessary  that  a  spring 
tivatiiit-nt  for  this  pest  be  made  accordingly.  The  writer  has  found 
hatched  lice  of  this  species  in  February  in  Colorado,  and  there  are  no 
doubt  seasons  in  California  when  just  as  early  hatching  would  take 
place.  Professor  Wilson  reports  finding  them  in  Oregon  as  early  as 
February  22d.  in  1912.  The  stem-mothers  become  quite  resistant  to 
contact  sprays  as  they  approach  maturity;  also,  because  of  the  protec- 
tion of  foliage  at  this  time,  spraying  is  often  done  with  very  poor  suc- 
cess. The  ideal  time  to  spray  is  just  as  the  eggs  are  through  hatching, 
and  while  no  date  can  be  set,  the  time  will  conform  closely  to  that  of  the 
swelling  of  the  buds.  Such  work  should  not  be  neglected  until  the 
blossoms  begin  to  appear,  as  this  is  too  late  for  the  best  results. 

Professor  Wilson  recommends  an  early  spring  treatment  with  a  combi- 
nation of  lime  sulphur  and  Black  Leaf  "40."  Mr.  Bremner  has  had 
splendid  success  with  fall  treatments  when  the  sexual  forms  of  the  lice 
are  present,  using  a  crude  oil  emulsion  formula  which  is  made  as  follows : 

"Place  88  gallons  of  water  in  the  spray  tank  and  add  1  to  2 
gallons  liquid  soap,  depending  on  the  softness  of  the  water  used, 
diluted  with  about  an  equal  amount  of  water.  Agitate  until 
thoroughly  mixed  and  then  with  the  agitator  running  add  10  gal- 
lons of  crude  oil." 

A  second  formula  recommended  by  Mr.  Bremner  follows : 

' '  Dissolve  10  pounds  of  whale  oil  soap  in  not  less  than  10  gallons 
of  water  by  boiling ;  slice  the  soap  and  it  will  dissolve  more  quickly. 
Place  this  in  the  spray  tank,  which  should  contain  about  10  gallons 
of  water.  Thoroughly  agitate  and  add  enough  water  to  make  90 
irallons.  then  add  2  pounds  of  caustic  soda  (concentrated  lye),  dis- 
solved in  water.  With  the  agitator  running  add  10  gallons  of  crude 
oil  slowly." 

Either  formula  is  said  to  be  effective  and  spraying  should  be  done 
about  November  25th  in  the  Sebastopol  section,  where  Mr.  Bremner  did 

his  work. 

Other  Species  of  Apple  Plant  Lice. 

The  three  species  already  treated  are  the  only  ones  of  any  importance 
that  have  been  taken  on  apple  in  California.  Occassionally  other  species 
are  found  in  limited  numbers.  C.  P.  Gillette  and  E.  P.  Taylor,  in 
Bui.  133  of  the  Colorado  Experiment  Station,  and  H.  F.  Wilson  in  the 
Biennial  Crop  Pest  and  Horticultural  R«  IM>I-I.  1911-1912,  of  the  Oregon 


88  APPLE    GROWING   IN    CALIFORNIA. 

Agricultural  College  and  Experiment  Station,  mention  the  European 
grain  aphis  (Aphis  avence)  and  the  clover  aphis  (Aphis  bakeri)  as  being 
of  more  or  less  importance.  These  species  are  not  commonly  found  on 
apple  in  California.  The  melon  aphis  (Aphis  gossypii)  and  the  sweet 
clover  aphis  (Aphis  medicaginis)  are  occassionally  taken  on  apple,  but 
are  never  serious. 

MISCELLANEOUS    APPLE    PESTS. 

Apple  Tree  Leaf -Hopper. 

(Empoasca  mali.) 

Infested  leaves  appear  more  or  less  mottled  with  whitish  markings, 
similar  to  those  injured  by  mites.  An  examination  of  such  leaves  will 
disclose  the  fact  that  little  white  bodied,  sucking  insects  are  feeding 
underneath.  These  hatch  from  eggs  laid  in  the  bark  of  young  growth. 
Wings  are  developed  during  the  season  and  upon  the  slightest  disturb- 
ance to  the  trees  the  insects  take  flight,  and  when  infestation  is  bad 
swarms  of  them  may  be  seen  in  the  air. 

A  spray  of  Black  Leaf  "40,"  1  to  1000  and  soap,  to  kill  the  larvae,  is 
effective.  Essig  recommends  whale  oil  soap,  1  pound  to  8  gallons,  or 
oil  emulsions. 

San    Jose    Scale. 

(Aspidiotus  perniciosus.) 

This  scale  insect  is  more  commonly  found  than  any  other  on  apple 
trees  in  California.  It  is  very  easily  recognized,  because  of  the  fact  that 
it  causes  small  red  spots  to  appear  on  the  bark  and  fruit  wherever  it 
attaches  itself.  The  scale  covering  varies  from  gray  in  the  larger  speci- 
mens to  sooty  black  in  the  smaller.  Underneath  these  scale  coverings 
may  be  seen  the  little  yellow  bodies  of  the  insects  themselves,  which  live 
by  sucking  sap  from  the  bark  through  their  little  beaks  by  which  they 
are  attached  to  the  twigs.  The  pest  winters  in  different  stages  of 
growth.  It  may  be  controlled  by  a  spray  of  either  lime-sulphur  or  an 
oil  emulsion  during  the  dormant  season. 

Oyster  Shell  Scale. 

(Lepidosaphes  ulmi.) 

This  scale  was  so  named  because  of  the  fact  that  the  covering  is  shaped 
somewhat  like  an  oyster  shell.  During  the  winter  season  an  examination 
will  disclose  the  fact  that  there  are  a  great  number  of  little  white  eggs 
underneath  the  scale  coverings.  These  hatch  in  the  early  spring,  the 
little  scales  immediately  attaching  themselves  either  to  the  foliage  or 
bark,  where  feeding  begins.  Lime-sulphur  is  recommended  as  a  spray 
during  the  dormant  season  to  control  this  insect.  It  is  also  readily  held 
in  check  by  means  of  oil  emulsion  sprays,  just  as  the  eggs  are  hatching 
in  the  spring. 

The   Scurfy  Scale. 

( Chionaspis  furfura. ) 

This  species  may  be  distinguished  by  the  dirty  white  scale  coverings 
on  the  bark.  Underneath  the»e  may  be  seen  the  purple  bodies  of  the 
insects,  or  eggs  of  the  same  color. 

Dormant  sprays  of  either  lime-sulphur  or  oil  emulsions  are  used  with 
success. 


APPLE    GROWING    IN    CALIFORNIA.  89 

Apple  Tree  Leaf  Roller. 
(Archips  argyrospila.) 

In  The  Monthly  Bulletin,  Vol.  II,  No.  9,  of  the  State  Commission  of 
Horticulture,  the  author  published  an  illustrated  article  on  this  pest, 
telling  of  its  habits  and  occurrence  in  the  state.  The  adult  is  a  yellow 
moth  about  the  size  of  the  codling  moth,  with  white  markings.  Eggs 
are  laid  in  oval  shaped  masses,  each  containing  from  ten  to  one  hundred 
and  fifty  eggs,  on  the  limbs  and  trunk  in  July.  These  hatch  in  the 
spring  as  buds  are  opening  and  the  little  whitish  larva?  immediately 
begin  feeding  and,  if  plentiful,  serious  destruction  of  blossoms  and 
defoliation  of  trees  may  result. 

AY  hen  full  grown  or  about  three  fourths  inch  in  length  the  larvae 
pupate,  mostly  in  the  rolled  leaves,  though  frequently  elsewhere. 

Complete  control  may  be  brought  about  by  an  early  spring  applica- 
tion of  either  a  miscible  oil  spray  or  crude  oil  emulsion  to  kill  the  eggs. 

Apple  Tree  Tent  Caterpillars. 
(Malacosoma  disstria  and  MaJacosoma  americana.) 

The  former  is  the  common  species  in  California.  Both  may  be 
recognized  by  the  large  web  tents  which  are  made  where  the  colonies 
feed,  after  hatching  from  eggs  which  were  deposited  by  the  moths  on 
the  twigs  the  previous  fall.  These  eggs  are  laid  in  masses  encircling 
the  twigs  and  are  easily  recognized  from  those  of  other  pests  because 
of  this  fact.  Feeding  usually  takes  place  by  the  hairy  caterpillars  in 
quite  definite  areas  within  and  surrounding  the  tents. 

Control  measures  consist  in  removal  of  the  egg  masses  when  trees  are 
being  pruned  in  the  dormant  season,  destruction  of  the  web  tents  with 
the  larva?  enclosed  in  the  early 'morning  or  late  in  the  evening,  and 
arsenical  sprays.  Where  spraying  is  done  to  control  codling  moth 
tliis  pest  is  also  satisfactorily  controlled. 

Tussock    Moth. 
(Hemerocampa  vetusta.) 

Considerable  injury  is  sometimes  done  to  young  apples  by  tussock 
moth  larvae,  and  mature  fruits  are  often  seen  in  the  packing-houses 
which  show  the  scars  due  to  this  early  injury. 

Like  the  canker  worm  moths,  the  females  of  this  species  are  wingless. 
The  winter  season  is  spent  on  the  trees  in  the  egg  stage,  in  masses 
protected  by  the  ooeoons  from  which  the  female  moths  emerged. 

The  larvae  are  quite  resistant  to  an  arsenate  of  lead  spray,  but 
arsenite  of  zinc  is  said  to  be  somewhat  more  effective.  Sticky  bands 
are  often  used  about  the  trunks  of  the  trees  to  keep  larvae,  which  are 
shaken  to  the  ground  by  jarring,  from  crawling  back. 

Spring   and    Fall   Canker  Worms. 
(Paleacrita  vernata  and  Alsophila  pometaria.) 

These  two  >prcirs  of  moths  are  very  similar  in  appearance,  both 
being  wingless  and  depositing  their  eggs  on  almost  any  portion  of  the 
tree  after  crawling  up  the  trunk.  The  larvae  are  some  of  the  so-called 
nn'iisurinu:  w<  rms.  the  spring  species  having  cnly  two  pairs  of  prolegs 
while  the  fall  species  has  three.  Otherwise  they  are  very  similar. 
There  is  only  one  generation  of  each  durinir  the  season.  The  spring 


90  APPLE   GROWING   IN   CALIFORNIA. 

species  winters  over  in  the  pupal  stage  in  the  soil  while  the  fall  species 
spends  the  winter  on  the  trees  in  the  egg  stage.  The  fact  that  the 
female  moths  are  wingless  and  can  not  fly  into  the  trees  makes  it  pos- 
sible to  control  this  pest  perfectly  by  means  of  a  band  of  some  sticky 
preparation  applied  to  the  trunks.  Arsenate  of  lead  as  used  for  the 
codling  moth  is  of  some  value  in  controlling  it.  Black  Leaf  "40"  at 
the  strength  of  1  part  to  1000  parts  of  water  has  also  been  successfully 
used  for  both  the  spring  and  fall  species. 

The   Red-Humped  Caterpillar. 

(  Schizura  concinna. ) 

The  f oilage  of  the  apple  is  frequently  attacked  by  communistic  cater- 
pillars, with  red  heads  and  large  red  humps  on  the  first  segment  of  the 
abdomen.  Many  prominent  black  spines  along  with  this  peculiar  hump 
render  the  species  very  conspicuous.  The  adult  is  a  brownish  moth, 
which  lays  its  eggs  on  the  leaves.  The  winter  is  spent  in  the  pupal 
stage  in  the  ground. 

Control  measures  consist  of  picking  the  caterpillars  from  the  trees 
and  spraying  with  arsenate  of  lead. 

Climbing  Cutworms. 

Quite  frequently  in  the  early  spring,  buds  of  young  apple  trees  are 
hollowed  out  by  some  species  of  climbing  cutworm,  of  which  there  are 
several.  This  trouble  is  usually  worse  on  sandy  soil  than  on  any  other 
kind.  Damage  from  this  pest  may  be  eliminated  by  means  of  cotton 
batting  bands  tied  about  the  trees,  over  which  the  worms  are  unable 
to  crawl.  The  method  of  using  a  cotton  batting  band  is  as  follows: 
Take  a  band  of  the  batting  about  three  inches  wide,  and  of  sufficient 
length  to  go  around  the  tree.  After  placing  about  the  trunk,  tie  it 
near  the  bottom  with  a  piece  of  twine,  pulling  the  top  portion  down- 
ward, thus  forming  a  collar  which  the  worms  do  not  penetrate.  During 
the  day  time  they  may  often  be  found  in  the  soil  near  the  crowns  of 
the  trees. 

Flat- Headed  Apple-Tree  Borer. 

(Chrysobothris  femorata.) 

Sun  scalded  or  otherwise  injured  trees  are  liable  to  attack  from  this 
borer.  The  adult  is  a  flat  metallic  colored  beetle,  which  lays  its  eggs 
on  the  trees.  Upon  hatching  from  these  eggs  the  footless  larvae,  with 
body  widened  in  front  and  tapering  to  the  posterior  extremity,  feed 
in  the  sapwood,  often  completely  girdling  a  tree.  Quite  frequently 
burrowing  into  the  heartwood  takes  place. 

There  is  no  practical  means  of  control.  Preventive  measures  con- 
sist entirely  of  keeping  trees  in  a  thrifty  growing  condition. 

The   Brown    Mite. 

(Bryobia  pratensis.) 

While  there  are  other  mites  that  occasionally  feed  on  apple  foliage, 
this  species  is  the  one  most  commonly  found.  The  little  red  eggs  are 
deposited  in  the  crotches  and  frequently  about  the  buds  of  trees  during 
the  fall  or  late  summer  season.  These  remain  unhatched  throughout 
the  winter.  In  the  early  spring,  as  the  foliage  begins  to  come  out,  the 
eggs  hatch  and  the  little  mites,  which  are  red  at  first,  begin  feeding 


APPI.K    (JRoWIXi;    IX    CALIFORNIA.  91 

almost  immediately.  At  this  time  they  have  only  six  legs,  the  fourth 
pair  being  developed  as  soon  as  they  moult  for  the  first  time,  and  the 
color  «•  lum^s  from  red  to  greenish.  There  are  several  generations 
iliirinir  tin-  summer  season,  but  usually  the  mites  do  not  become  abund- 
ant enough  t<»  seriously  damage  the  apple  trees. 

Lime-sulphur,  applied  at  the  strength  of  1  part  to  10  parts  of  water, 
during  the  dormant  season,  just  before  the  buds  begin  to  swell,  is  an 
ert'ertive  remedy.  Either  atomic  or  milled  sulphur,  during  the  summer 
season  while  feeding  is  going  on,  is  also  valuable  in  controlling  it. 
Sulphur  in  any  form  is  a  good  mite  remedy  as  a  general  rule. 

Blister   Mite. 
(Eriophyes  pyri.) 

While  this  is  primarily  a  pear  pest  it  is  sometimes  found  injuring 
apple  foliage,  also,  to  a  considerable  extent.  It  may  be  recognized  by  the 
blister-like  patches  on  the  surface  of  the  leaves.  The  winter  season 
is  spent  under  the  bud  scales  of  both  apple  and  pear.  In  the  early 
spring  the  mites  leave  their  hibernating  quarters,  the  females  deposit- 
ing eggs  in  the  leaves,  from  which  hatch  the  tiny  larva?,  which  im- 
mediately begin  feeding  and  produce  the  characteristic  appearance 
already  mentioned.  This  pest  may  be  controlled  by  an  application  of 
lime-sulphur  just  as  the  buds  are  beginning  to  open  in  the  early  spring. 


92  APPLE    GROWING    IN    CALIFORNIA. 


CHAPTER  XV. 

DISEASES  OF  THE  APPLE. 

BLIGHT. 

(Bacillus  amylovorus) 

This  disease  affects  some  varieties  of  the  apple  as  badly  as  it  does 
the  pear,  and  when  trees  in  an  orchard  become  affected  the  same  reme- 
dial measures  must  be  applied  as  in  the  case  of  the  latter,  viz,  pruning 
out  all  diseased  wood  in  roots,  trunks  and  branches,  being  sure  to  cut 
well  below  where  any  signs  of  the  disease  are  noticed;  and  carefully 
disinfecting  all  tools  and  cut  surfaces  with  corrosive  sublimate  solution, 
1  to  1000,  after  every  cut. 

OAK   ROOT  FUNGUS. 

(Armillaria  mellea.) 

Quite  frequently  apple  trees  are  found  rotted  in  the  roots  and  at 
the  crown  by  this  serious  disease.  The  writer  has  in  mind  one  orchard 
visited  early  last  spring,  where  tree  after  tree  was  diseased  with  this 
fungus.  Oaks  had  been  growing  on  the  land  previous  to  the  time  of 
apple  tree  planting  and  the  stumps  were  still  standing  throughout  the 
orchard  in  many  places.  Surrounding  these  stumps  a  number  of  trees 
were  frequently  found  to  be  affected  and  great  masses  of  toadstools,  the 
fruiting  bodies  of  the  fungus,  were  growing  about  the  stumps  and 
apple  trees.  There  is  no  cure  known  for  this  disease. 

APPLE  SCAB. 

( Venturia  incequaUs. ) 

The  very  destructive  and  commonly  distributed  disease  known  as 
apple  scab  is  familiar  to  practically  every  apple  grower,  and  during 
certain  seasons  a  heavy  loss  is  sustained  from  it,  if  nothing  in  the  way 
of  spraying  is  done  to  control  the  fungus. 

It  has  a  preference  for  certain  varieties,  others  being  more  or  less 
resistant.  The  Yellow  Newtown  is  one  of  the  most  susceptible  to  attack, 
and  spraying  of  orchards  consisting  of  this  variety  should  never  be 
neglected  in  sections  where  scab  is  prevalent.  The  Esopus  is  also  very 
susceptible  in  California,  as  well  as  many  other  varieties  that  might  be 
mentioned.  Locality,  of  course,  has  considerable  influence  upon  this 
trouble,  and  in  general  the  high  altitude  orchards  in  California  suffer 
most. 

Fig.  49  illustrates  the  appearance  of  this  disease  as  it  occurs  on  the 
fruit,  the  well  defined,  grayish  scabby  patches,  more  or  less  roughened 
where  the  skin  has  been  broken  through,  being  characteristic  of  the 
advanced  stage  of  the  disease. 

This  disease  is  due  to  a  fungous  organism  which  winters  on  the  tree 
and  on  fallen  foliage.  The  plowing  under  of  the  leaves,  before  the 
spores  have  a  chance  to  get  into  the  trees  in  the  spring,  is  one  of  the 
important  things  in  connection  with  its  control. 


APPLE   GROWING    IN    CALIFORNIA. 


93 


Spraying  with  some  good  fungicide  must  not  be  neglected.  An  early 
spring  application  of  lime-sulphur  at  the  dormant  strength,  or  of 
Bordeaux  mixture,  applied  as  the  buds  are  swelling,  should  be  made. 
This  should  be  followed  by  later  applications,  which  may  be  combined 
with  the  arsenical  sprays  for  codling  moth,  being  careful  that  com- 
patible mixtures  are  used.  Either  Bordeaux  mixture  or  lime-sulphur 
with  neutral  arsenate  of  lead,  according  to  Geo.  P.  Gray  of  the  State 
University  of  California,  may  be  safely  used,  or  Bordeaux  with  either 
the  acid  or  neutral  arsenate  of  lead.  Zinc  arsenite  should  not  be  used 
with  either  Bordeaux  or  lime-sulphur. 


FIG.  49. — Rhode  Island  Greening  affected  with  apple  scab.    (Original) 


CROWN    GALL. 

(Bacterium  tumefaciens. ) 

This  is  a  very  common  disease  of  the  apple,  often  found  on  nursery 
trees,  and  sometimes  becoming  so  abundant  that  great  numbers  of  them 
have  to  be  destroyed.  Trees  with  this  disease,  if  planted  in  the  orchard, 
may  live  for  years,  but  are  usually  stunted  and  never  develop  into  the 
best  type  of  trees. 

The  cause  of  this  affection  is  known  to  be  a  bacterium,  which  often 
enters  through  a  wound,  thus  starting  the  disease,  which  manifests  itself 
in  swellings  or  galls.  These  occur  on  the  crowns  of  trees,  as  well  as  the 
roots,  at  some  distance  from  the  crowns,  and  are  very  rarely  seen  above 
the  ground. 

There  is  no  cure  for  crown  gall,  but  preventive  measures,  such  as 
inspection  and  destruction  of  all  affected  nursery  trees,  may  keep  it  out 
of  the  orchard. 


94 


APPLE    GROWING   IN    CALIFORNIA. 


POWDERY   MILDEW  OF  THE  APPLE. 

(Podospha'ra   leucotricha  and  P.   oxycantha.'.) 

The  above  disease  and  scab  are  the  two  worst  fungous  troubles  of  the 
apple  that  occur  in  California.  Mildew  attacks  the  leaves  and  tender 
twigs  and  is  recognized  by  a  whitish  powdery  appearance  of  the  twigs, 


Fig.   50. — Apple  twig  affected  with  mildew,  showing 
(After  R.  E.  and  Elizabeth  H.  { 


'  characteristic  appearance. 
Imith) 


both  in  the  summer  and  winter  seasons.  There  is  also  more  or  less 
curling  of  the  leaves.  According  to  Bulletin  No.  120,  recently  published 
by  W.  S.  Ballard  of  the  Bureau  of  Plant  Industry  and  W.  H.  Volck, 


APPLE   GROWING    IN    CALIFORNIA.  95 

County  Commissioner  of  Santa  Cruz  County,  the  winter  is  spent  both 
in  dormant  buds  and  as  spores  in  black  patches  on  the  twigs.  The 
disease  may  be  started  in  the  spring  from  the  fungus  in  the  dormant 
buds  or  from  these  black  patches  on  the  twigs,  the  former  being  the 
common  source  of  infestation  in  the  Pajaro  Valley.  The  climatic  condi- 
tions of  that  section  are  said  to  favor  very  greatly  the  development  of  • 
the  disease.  At  high  altitudes,  wherever  apples  are  grown,  serious  infes- 
tations have  been  found.  Here  again  moisture  conditions  are  such  as 
to  aggravate  the  trouble.  The  authors  of  the  previously  mentioned  bul- 
letin recommend  finely  divided  sulphur  in  some  form  as  the  very  best 
mildew  fungicide.  Ordinary  flowers  of  sulphur  is  not  fine  enough  for 
good  results.  The  following  instructions  and  formula  are  copied  from 
their  bulletin  and  this  formula  has  given  general  satisfaction  wherever 
it  has  been  tested  out : 

Preparation  of  the  Iron-Sulphid  Mixture. 

The  following  directions  are  for  the  preparation  of  sufficient  stock  iron-sulphid 
mixture  to  make  500  gallons  of  spray  :  Fill  a  50-gallon  barrel  about  two  thirds  full 
of  water.  Weigh  out  10  pounds  of  iron  sulphate  (copperas),  place  in  a  'sack,  and 
suspend  in  the  water.  The  iron  sulphate  will  dissolve  fairly  rapidly,  and  when  it  is 
all  in  solution  measure  out  carefully  2£  gallons  of  commercial  lime-sulphur  solution 
testing  33°  Baume",  or  2  gallons  and  3  pints  of  a  lime-sulphur  solution  testing  32° 
liaium''.  Slowly  pour  all  but  2  pints  of  the  lime-sulphur  solution  into  the  iron- 
sulphate  solution  in  the  barrel,  stirring  the  mixture  vigorously  with  a  hoe  or  shovel. 
The  addition  of  the  lime-sulphur  solution  will  produce  a  bulky,  black  precipitate,  and 
when  all  but  2  pints  of  the  lime-sulphur  solution  has  been  added  the  mixture  should 
be  allowed  to  stand  for  a  few  minutes,  when  the  black  precipitate  will  begin  to  settle 
and  a  little  of  the  clear  liquid  at  the  top  can  be  carefully  dipped  out  with  a  clean 
glass  or  cup.  This  clear  liquid  will  probably  show  no  yellow  lime-sulphur  color, 
which  means  that  an  excess  of  lime-sulphur  solution  has  not  yet  been  added.  In 
other  woids,  there  is  still  some  iron  sulphate  in  solution,  in  which  case  the  addition 
of  a  drop  of  lime-sulphur  solution  to  the  clear  liquid  in  the  glass  will  produce  a  black 
precipitate.  This  means  that  more  lime-sulphur  solution  should  be  added  to  the  stock 
in  the  barrel,  and  about  half  of  the  remaining  2  pints  should  now  be  poured  in  and 
the  contents  of  the  barrel  stirred  vigorously  and  allowed  to  stand.  Some  of  the 
clear  liquid  should  again  be  dipped  off  and  tested  as  before,  to  determine  whether  an 
'•.v.-ss  of  lime-sulphur  solution  has  been  added.  If  necessary,  the  addition  of  small 
quantities  of  lime-sulphur  solution  should  be  continued  until  some  of  the  clear  liquid 
dipped  from  the  top,  after  the  contents  of  the  barrel  have  been  well  stirred  and 
allowed  to  settle,  shows  a  pale  yellowish  lime-sulphur  tint.  The  purpose  of  using 
n  slight  excess  of  the  lime-sulphur  solution  is  to  insure  all  the  iron  sulphate  being 
utilized.  The  voluminous  black  precipitate  that  is  formed  consists  of  iron  sulphid. 
precipitated  sulphur,  and  calcium  sulphate.  After  a  slight  excess  of  lime-sulphur 
solution  has  been  added,  the  barrel  should  be  filled  with  water  and  the  contents  stirred 
thoroughly  and  allowed  to  stand  for  several  hours.  The  black  iron-sulphid  mixture 
will  settle  into  the  lower  half  or  third  of  the  barrel,  and  the  clear  liquid  should  be 
P'.iu-f'd  off  by  carefully  and  gradually  tipping  the  barrel,  without  allowing  any  of  the 
f.iack  precipitate  to  run  out.  The  barrel  should  again  be  filled  with  water,  the 
contents  thoroughly  stirred  and  allowed  to  stand  several  hours,  and  the  clear  liquid 
poured  off  as  before.  This  operation  of  washing  the  precipitate  should  be  repeated 
until  the  water  poured  off  no  longer  shows  the  yellow  lime-sulphur  tinge.  Probably 
three  or  more  such  washings  will  be  required,  depending  upon  how  careful  the  operator 
has  been  in  using  only  a  slight  excess  of  lime-sulphur  solution. 

It  is  evident  that  the  preparation  of  this  stock  supply  should  be  commenced  two  or 
three  days  before  the  spraying  is  to  be  done,  but  when  once  prepared  it  may  be  kept 
indefinitely.  If  care  is  used  in  weighing  out  each  lot  of  iron  sulphate  and  if  the 
lime-sulphur  solution  used  is  accurately  measured  there  will  be  no  trouble  in  making 


96  APPLE    GROWING   IN    CALIFORNIA. 

up  the  stock  supplies  rapidly  after  the  first  two  or  three  batches  have  been  prepared, 
and  it  will  be  remembered  that  each  batch  is  sufficient  for  making  500  gallons  of 
spray  mixture.  In  order  to  keep  a  supply  of  the  stock  mixture  on  hand,  several 
britches  should  be  prepared  before  the  spraying  commences,  and  as  rapidly  as  a  barrel 
is  emptied  the  preparation  of  a  new  batch  should  be  started.  Iron  sulphate  is  com- 
paratively cheap,  and  the  entire  cost  of  materials  for  preparing  100  gallons  of  the 
mildew  spray,  when  diluted  according  to  the  recommendations  given  in  this  bulletin, 
should  not  exceed  15  or  20  cents. 

When  the  washing  has  been  completed,  the  stock  barrel  should  be  filled  with  water 
to  exactly  50  gallons.  The  material  is  now  ready  for  use  as  directed  under  "General 
formula  for  the  spray  mixture,"  but  care  should  be  taken  to  stir  the  contents  of  the 
barrel  thoroughly  each  time  before  any  of  the  mixture  is  taken  out. 

General    Formula  for  the  Spray   Mixture. 

Stock  iron-sulphid  mixture 20  gallons 

Arsenicals  and  nicotine  solution  to  te  added  as  required. 
Water,  to  make 200  gallons 

When  arsenicals  and  a  nicotine  solution  are  to  be  used  in  conjunction  with  the 
ii-on-sulphid  mixture,  the  combined  spray  may  be  prepared  by  first  running  about  150 
or  160  gallons  of  water  into  the  spray  tank.  The  agitator  is  then  started  and  the 
20  gallons  of  stock  iron-sulphid  mixture  is  poured  in,  after  which  the  nicotine  solution 
and  the  arsenicals  may  be  added  in  the  usual  way.  Sufficient  water  should  then  be 
added  to  make  200  gallons. 

This  same  strength  of  iron-sulphid  mixture,  namely,  20  gallons  in  200  gallons  of 
spray,  is  to  be  used  in  all  the  mildew  applications.  It  will  be  seen  that  the  20  gallons 
of  stock  mixture  used  in  each  200  gallons  of  spray  contains  the  product  from  4 
pounds  of  iron  sulphate. 

There  are  other  products  besides  iron-sulphid  which  contain  sulphur 
in  a  very  finely  divided  form  that  can  be  used  just  as  effectively  in  the 
control  of  mildew.  The  California  Spray  Chemical  Company  at  Wat- 
son ville  is  supplying  a  form  known  as  ' '  Milled  Sulphur, ' '  and  both  the 
General  Chemical  Company  and  Balfour,  Guthrie  &  Co.,  of  San  Fran- 
cisco, sell  another  product  under  the  trade  name  of  '  *  Atomic  Sulphur. ' ' 
No  doubt  there  are  still  other  forms  that  could  be  used  to  good  advan- 
tage, the  essential  qualifications  being  the  finely  divided  state  of  the 
sulphur,  as  has  already  been  indicated. 

As  is  true  with  most  diseases  of  this  nature,  a  thrifty,  strong  growing 
tree  is  apt  to  resist  attacks  to  a  greater  or  less  extent.  Consequently,  it 
is  very  desirable  that  everything  be  done  toward  keeping  orchards  in  the 
best  possible  condition.  Thus  fertilization  may  be  a  great  benefit,  and 
Ballard  and  Volck  recommend  spraying  during  the  early  spring  with  a 
crude  oil  emulsion,  which  has  a  tendency  to  stimulate  growth.  Pruning 
is  an  important  means  of  checking  this  disease.  All  infested  twigs  which 
are  noticed  during  the  time  of  pruning,  either  in  the  dormant  or  sum- 
mer season,  should  be  cut  from  the  trees. 


APPLE    GROWING    IX    CALIFORNIA. 


97 


CHAPTER   XVI. 


PICKING,  GRADING  AND  PACKING. 

PICKING. 

The  knowledge  that  has  been  acquired  in  regard  to  the  various  organ- 
isms which  produce  decay  in  fruits,  and  that  many  gain  entrance  only 
where  the  skin  is  broken  by  bruising  or  where  a  worm  has  entered.  has 
resulted  in  much  greater  care  being  taken,  when  picking  apples,  than 
formerly.  How  well  c;m  we  all  remember  the  time  when  the  apples  high 
up  in  the  trees  were  shaken  to  the  ground  or  knocked  down  with  a  pole 
regardless  of  the  injury  done  to  them  in  falling.  It  is  now  known  that 
only  the  sound  apples  will  keep  well  when  packed,  and  even  slight 
bruises  will  act  as  starting  points  for  decay  and  the  ruination  of  the 
fruit.  As  a  consequence,  picking  is  done  with  the  greatest  care  by  the 


Fig.   51. — A  good  type  of  picking  bucket.      (Original) 

better  orchardists  and  the  handling  of  the  fruit  is  done  as  carefully  as 
though  one  were  handling  e«r<rs.  As  far  as  possible  all  stems  should 
remain  intact  after  fruit  is  picked. 

When  pulled  from  the  tre.-s  the  apples  should  be  carefully  placed 
in  the  picking  ba«r.  Can-less  dropping  of  the  fruit  into  the  bags  may 
result  in  many  bruises,  and  a«rain  when  emptying  from  the  bag  into  a 
l>ox.  eare  should  be  exercised  so  that  they  an-  not  allowed  to  drop  too  far. 
The  type  of  picking  bucket  shown  in  Fig.  51  has  a  canvas  bottom  which 
opens  when  bein<r  unhooked  at  the  side,  and  the  apples  are  emptied 

7 — 13683 


98 


APPLE    GROWING   IN    CALIFORNIA. 


into  the  box  without  danger  of  bruising,  provided  that  the  picking- 
vessel  is  not  held  too  high  when  opened.  There  are  a  number  of  good 
picking  bags  made  somewhat  like  the  one  shown  in  the  picture,  any 
of  which  will  give  good  service,  providing  that  they  are  used  by  careful 
pickers.  Common  buckets  of  small  size  are  sometimes  used  and  are 
quite  satisfactory,  but  are  not  so  conveniently  emptied  as  vessels  with 
the  collapsible  bottoms. 

GRADING. 

The  grading  of  apples  is  usually  done  in  the  packing-houses.     Fig.  52 
shows  boxes  of  apples  in  house  awaiting  this  work,  which  is  sometimes 


Fig.   52. — Boxes  of  fruit  in  the  packing-house  ready  for  grading. 

C.  B.  Weeks) 


(Photo  by 


done  by  means  of  mechanical  graders,  of  which  there  are  a  number  of 
different  types  on  the  market.  Some  of  these  are  said  to  be  very  satis- 
factory, while  others  are  apt  to  bruise  the  fruit  more  or  less,  thus  bring- 
ing about  decay  prematurely.  Ordinarily  such  work  is  done  by  hand. 
The  beginner  is  given  a  board  in  which  holes  of  different  sizes,  repre- 
senting the  diameters  of  the  apples  that  are  used  in  the  different  styles  of 
pack,  are  made.  These  are  used  simply  to  train  the  eye  to  the  various 
sizes,  and  are  not  necessary  after  one  has  been  doing  the  work  for  a 
short  time.  All  cull  apples  are  removed  during  the  process  of  grading ; 
that  is,  such  as  are  stemless,  contain  worms,  worm  holes,  bruises,  limb 
scars,  etc.  When  mechanical  graders  are  used,  all  blemished  fruit  must 
be  picked  out  by  hand,  either  before  or  after  it  has  been  put  through 
the  grader. 


APPLE   GROWING   IN   CALIFORNIA. 


99 


PACKING. 

\Vh;ii  we  might  term  the  evolution  of  the  apple  pack  has  been  very 
ma  rked  in  the  past  quarter  century.  We  can  all  remember  the  time  when 
no  attempt  was  made  at  grading,  small  apples  and  big  apples  being  put 
into  the  same  package,  usually  the  former  on  the  bottom;  indeed,  some- 
times no  attempt  was  made  to  keep  varieties  separate  and  several  kinds 
were  placed  in  the  sack,  box  or  barrel  and  sold  together.  The  West,  with 
its  cooperative  marketing  organizations,  has  undoubtedly  done  more 
toward  developing  a  uniform  pack  and  establishing  a  fancy  trade  than 
the  rest  of  the  United  States.  The  East,  until  very  recent  years,  has 
insisted  on  putting  apples  in  barrels  and,  while  standardization  of  the 
barivl  pack  could  be  accomplished  as  well  as  of  the  box  pack,  the  East  has 
been  slower  in  evolving  along  these  lines,  and  has  of  recent  years  been 
copvini:  after  the  West,  until  now  apples  are  often  packed  in  boxes  and 
market inu  agencies  with  their  standardized  packs  are  competing  with 
our  western  organizations. 

The  boxes  that  are  being  used  at  the  present  time  are  variable  in 
size.  California  uses  a  box  that  is  9J  by  11  by  22  inches;  Oregon  and 
Colorado  have  boxes  of  the  following  dimensions,  respectively:  10£  by 


RBest 


Apples 


Kit*.   53. — Yellow  Bellflowers,  illustrating  3£,  4  and  4J  tier  packs.      (Original) 

11£  by  18  inches  and  11^  by  11 J  by  18  inches.  A  bill,  designed  to  create 
a  standard  size  and  pack,  was  introduced  into  the  session  of  Congress 
just  closed  by  Judge  J.  S.  Raker,  but  failed  to  pass.  With  California 
using  one  sized  box  principally,  Oregon  another  and  Colorado  still  an- 
other, it  is  found  to  be  a  difficult  matter  to  agree  on  a  standard,  but  as 
standardization  in  the  matter  of  packages  for  all  fruits  is  becoming 
necessary  for  uniformly  good  sales,  the  time  will  come,  no  doubt,  when 
the  West  will  agree  on  a  certain  sized  I  MIX  to  be  used  and  marked  as 
standard. 

In  the  Watsonville  section  of  California,  where  a  splendid  pack  on  the 
whole  is  made,  there  are  three  packs  known  as  3J,  4  and  4|  tier,  with  the 
4  tier  as  the  standard,  or  average  size,  which  is  most  desirable  to  the 
trade  in  general.  This  size  varies  from  2-f  inches  as  a  minimum  to  3J 
inches  as  a  maximum.  The  3£  tier  size  contains  apples  over  3J  inches  in 
•  lia meter,  and  the  4.1  smaller  apples  than  2$.  These  rules  are  for  their 
standard  varieties:  Yellow  Newtown  and  Yellow  Bellflower. 

In  the  case  of  the  3|  and  4  tier  apples,  the  fruit  is  always  wrapped  by 
the  packers.  This  practice  is  one  of  tremendous  value  and  should  be 


100  APPLE    GROWING    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

followed  by  every  section  where  apples  are  produced  commercially. 
Surh  wrapping  not  only  facilitates  the  work  of  packing,  but  enables 
one  to  put  up  a  much  firmer  pack  and  one  less  subject  to  bruising  in 
boxing  and  during  transportation  than  could  otherwise  be  possible.  The 
keeping  qualities  of  the  fruit  are  no  doubt  enhanced  to  a  marked  degree. 
Tasteful  designs  or  trade  marks  may  be  placed  on  these  wrappers,  as 
well  as  the  name  of  grower  and  locality,  thus  adding  greatly  to  the 
attractiveness  of  the  pack. 

Fig.  53  shows  three  boxes  of  excellent  Yellow  Bellflowers  grown  and 
packed  by  Rodgers  Bros,  of  Watsonville.  This  picture  illustrates  nicely 
the  diagonal  pack  and  shows  the  three  sizes,  viz :  3^,  4  and  4^  tier. 

The  pack,  \vhen  made,  should  be  so  firm  that  each  apple  is  held  fast 
by  another,  and  none  have  any  room  for  play.  When  covered  and 


Fig.   54. — A  well  packed  box  of  apples  with  a  top  bulge  of  I  inch.      (Original) 

nailed  there  should  be  a  bulge  of  at  least  !|  inch  on  the  top  and  a  slightly 
lesser  amount  on  the  bottom.      (See  Fig.  54.) 

Tasty  lithographed  labels  of  various  designs  are  used  on  the  ends  of 
boxes,  and  such  should  result  in  the  best  kind  of  advertising  for  the 
growrer.  When  the  trade  learns  a  label  and  knows  that  the  man  who 
uses  it  always  exercises  the  greatest  care  in  packing  his  fruit,  it  may  be 
the  means  of  securing  for  him  a  good  market.  On  the  other  hand, 
such  labels  may  have  the  opposite  tendency  and  work  injury  to  the 
man  who  persists  in  packing  undesirable  fruit  and  misrepresenting  il 
by  the  label. 

Special  Packages. 

While  practically  all  of  the  fancy  California  apples  are  wrapped  and 
packed  in  two  sized  boxes,  viz:  the  California  box  and  the  Oregon  box, 
there  is  a  certain  limited  demand,  at  least,  for  a  smaller  package,  such 


APPLE    GRONVINt;     !  N.    f'ALIFOKNlA. 


101 


MS  ;i  person  cmild  easily  carry  away  from  a  grocery  store.  Recognizing 
this  demand,  Mr.  J.  F.  Benton  of  Arcata  has  been  packing  apples  in 
cartons  which  hold  just  one  third  of  a  box.  Figs.  -V>  and  56  show  one 
of  his  special  carti  us  packed  and  ready  ti>  seal,  and  the  other  sealed. 
It  i>  pr.»l>ahle  that  large  growers  close  to  market  would  not  he  justified 


I-'ii:.    ',:..     ('arton  used  by  J.   F.   Bt-nton  of  Arcata.  which  holds  one  third  of  a  box 

of  apples. 

in  making  such  a  pack,  but  on  the  other  hand  the  grower  with  a  small 
orchard,  located  at  a  distance  from  market,  might  be  able  to  secure  a 
limited  fancy  trade  by  packing  only  the  very  finest  apples  in  such 
packages  as  these.  Mr.  Benton  secures  his  own  market  and  deserves 

success  in   his  new  venture. 


102 


APPLE   GROWING    IX    CALIFORNIA. 


CHAPTER    XVII. 

BY-PRODUCTS. 

No  matter  how  carefully  an  orchard  may  be  sprayed  and  cared  for 
in  general,  there  is  always  a  considerable  loss  of  fruit  because  of  wind- 
falls, undersized  apples,  limb  bruises,  sunburn,  etc.  Such  fruit  is  not  fit 
to  pack  and  while  sometimes  the  temptation  is  very  strong  to  put  it  in 
boxes  and  market  it,  yet  the  prices  received  are  seldom  such  as  to  justify 


Fig.   56. — The  same  carton  as  shown  in  Fig. 


after  it  has  been  sealed. 


the  practice.  The  utilization  of  all  such  fruit  which,  if  boxed,  brings 
nothing,  and  if  left  in  the  orchard  ordinarily  goes  to  waste,  is  one  of  our 
important  problems. 

There  are  many  by-products  of  the  apple  for  which  great  demand 
could  be  created.  Some  of  these  are  jelly,  cider,  vinegar,  apple  butter, 
dried  apples,  etc.  The  drying  business  has  reached  quite  extensive  pro- 
portions in  the  Pajaro  Valley. 

As  an  assistant  judge  at  the  California  Apple  Show  held  at  Wat- 
sonville  in  1913.  the  writer  had  the  pleasure  of  helping  with  the 
awarding  of  the  first  premium  for  feature  exhibits  to  Mrs.  Hugh 


APPLE   GROWING    IN    CALIFORNIA, 


103 


M«-<  iowan.  who  had  constructed  with  jelly  glasses,  all  full  of  pure  apple 
jelly  of  different  shades  of  coloring,  a  building  which  was  an  exact 
reproduction  of  the  great  Watsonville  auditorium  where  the  show  was 
held.  The  dimensions  of  this  auditorium  made  of  jelly  were  as  follows : 
length,  15J  feet:  width,  10  feet;  height,  about  4  feet* 

This  season  such  a  building  was  constructed  at  the  California  Apple 
Show  held  in  San  Francisco  and  was  again  recognized  by  the  judges 
by  being  awarded  third  premium  for  feature  exhibits.  Fig.  57  shows 
this  excellent  exhibit.  Mrs.  McGowan  certainly  deserves  much  credit 
and  the  thanks  of  the  community  in  which  she  lives  for  her  energy 
in  making  such  a  tremendous  quantity  of  jelly  and  in  putting  up  such 
an  exhibit  as  the  one  mentioned.  It  is  hard  to  foresee  what  the  develop- 
ment of  this  one  industry  may  mean  to  the  Watsonville  section.  This 
is  just  an  illustration  of  the  great  possibilities  that  there  are  for  those 
who  will  take  advantage  of  them. 

Recently  while  visiting  some  of  the  fruit  orchards  in  the  Julian  section 
of  San  Diego  County — which  is  not  easily  accessible — the  writer  was 


Fig.  57. — Model  of  the  Watsonville  Auditorium  made  from  glasses  filled  with  pure 
apple  jelly.  Exhibited  by  Mrs.  Hugh  McGowan  at  the  Annual  Apple  Show  in  San 
Francisco* 

pleased  to  find  an  up  to  date  plant,  on  the  ranch  belonging  to  S.  A. 
Walters,  for  the  manufacture  of  apple  butter,  cider,  vinegar  and  other 
by-products.  Mr.  Walters  has  undoubtedly  solved  the  problem  of 
netting  good  returns  for  his  fruit.  While  it  might  be  easy  to  overdo 
the  manufacture  of  some  of  these  by-produets.  yet  it  would  seem  that 
there  are  great  possibilities,  particularly  for  orchardists  who  arc  a  long 
way  from  market  and  who  have  no  provision  for  storing  their  fruit.  As 
has  already  been  mentioned,  one  of  the  chief  reasons  for  manufacturing 
by-products  is  that  there  is  ordinarily  a  great  waste  of  imperfect  fruit. 
Th»-  aim  should  always  be  to  jrrow  the  best  possible  apples  which  may 
be  packed  and  sold,  most  seasons,  to  good  advantage.  There  will,  how- 
ever, come  seasons  of  low  prices  when  even  the  very  hest  can  be  utilized 
in  the  manufacture  of  such  by-produets  as  s-em  hest.  and  in  this  way 
a  good  market  will  be  insured. 


104  APPLE    GROWING    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

CHAPTER  XVIII 

PRODUCTION,  CONSUMPTION  AND  RECIPES. 

Statistics  show  that  the  acreage  of  apples  has  been  greatly  increased 
in  the  past  few  years,  which,  of  course,  means  a  corresponding  increase 
in  the  production.  The  East  is  also  awakening  to  the  possibilities  in 
apple  growing,  and  where  thousands  of  acres  of  this  fruit  were  destroyed 
by  San  Jose  scale  not  many  years  ago,  new  orchards  are  being  set  out 
and  the  West  must  be  prepared  to  meet  this  competition. 

It  has  already  been  stated  that  the  apple  crop  varies  in  size  from 
season  to  season,  largely  on  account  of  killing  spring  frosts  in  different 
parts  of  the  country.  This  variation  in  size  means  a  fluctuation  in 
prices,  which  range  from  very  high  in  one  season  to  very  low  in  another. 
During  seasons  of  light  crops  the  marketing  problem  solves  itself,  but 
during  seasons  of  very  heavy  crops  there  is  always  danger  of  prices  being 
so  low  as  to  make  apple  growing  unprofitable.  It  is  this  fact  that  should 
make  us  bend  every  effort  toward  increasing  the  consumption  of  apples, 
in  order  to  lessen  the  possibility  of  overproduction  and  consequent  low 
prices  for  our  fruit. 

We  are  abundantly  justified  in  any  campaign  that  may  be  carried  on 
with  the  aim  of  increasing  consumption,  because  of  the  excellent  food 
value  of  the  apple.  Much  has  been  done  in  the  past  few  years  to  educate 
the  people  along  this  line.  The  splendid  apple  shows  that  have  been 
held  in  different  parts  of  the  country  have  taken  a  leading  part  in  this 
work.  In  our  own  state  the  great  California  apple  show— which  is 
usually  held  annually  at  Watsonville,  but  this  year  at  San  Francisco — 
and  the  annual  Sebastopol  Gravenstein  show,  have  advertised  in  an 
emphatic  way  the  value  of  the  apple  as  food.  Who  could  look  at  a  tasty 
jelly  exhibit,  such  as  Mrs.  McGowan's,  shown  in  Fig.  57,  without  having 
a  better  taste  created  for  apple  jelly  ?  Or  who  could  look  at  the  splendid 
exhibits  of  Gravensteins  at  the  Sebastopol  show  (Fig.  58)  without  going 
away  feeling  that  he  must  buy  a  box  of  Gravensteins  when  he  gets  home  ? 

Our  fruit  journals  have  also  done  much  toward  increasing  the  con- 
sumption of  this,  the  best  of  all  fruits.  In  1912  the  October  number  of 
"Better  Fruit,"  published  at  Hood  River,  Oregon,  printed  a  list  of  209 
ways  for  cooking  the  apple.  These  recipes  were  gathered  by  L.  Ger- 
trude Mackay,  of  the  domestic  science  department,  Pullman,  Washing- 
ton. With  the  help  of  Mrs.  Weldon  50  of  these  have  been  selected  and 
are  here  printed,  in  hopes  that  they  may  reach  many  housewives  of  Cali- 
fornia, who  will  be  encouraged  to  try  them  and  cook  more  apples  than 
they  otherwise  would,  thus  aiding  in  the  work  of  increasing  the  con- 
sumption. 


<;KM\VI.\<;    IN   CAUKORNIA. 


1  <  i:> 


106  APPLE    GROWING   IN    CALIFORNIA. 

RECIPES. 

1.  Baked  Apples. — Peel  and  core  tart  apples  ;  fill  the  holes  with  shredded  citron,, 
raisins,  sugar  and  a  little  lemon  peel.     Place  in  baking  dish  and  pour  over  them  one 


half  cup  of  water  and  dust  with  granulated  sugar.  Bake  in  a  slow  oven  until  per- 
fectly tender  and  sprinkle  with  soft  bread  crumbs  and  sugar;  bake  for  ten  minutes 
and  serve  hot  with  cream  or  pudding  sauce. 

2.  Apple  Fritters,  English  Style. — Beat  one  egg,  add  a  few  grains  of  salt  and  one 
fourth  cup  of  milk ;  cut  out  four  rounds  of  bread  from  half  inch  slices  of  stale  bread ; 
set  the  bread  into  the  milk  and  egg  mixture  and  cook  in  deep  fat. 

Stew  apples,  pared  and  cored,  in  a  few  spoonfuls  of  syrup.  Place  an  apple  on 
each  round  of  bread  and  grate  a  little  nutmeg  over  the  top.  Serve  very  hot. 

3.  Afterthought. — One  pint  of  nice  apple  sauce  sweetened  to  taste  :  stir  in  the  yolks 
of  two  eggs  well  beaten.     Bake  for  fifteen  minutes.     Cover  with  a  meringue  made  of 
two  well  beaten  whites  and  one  half  cup  of  powdered  sugar.     Return  to  the  oven  and. 
brown. 

4.  Apricot  Sherbet  Served  in  Apple  Shells. — Select  bright  red  apples  of  uniform 
size,  rub  until  they  have  a  high  polish.     Cut  off  the  blossom  end  and  scoop  out  the 
pulp ;  carefully  notch  the  edge.     Fill  with  apricot  sherbet  and  serve  upon  apple  loaves. 

5.  Apple  Balls  with  a  Mixture  of  Fruit. — Peel  large  apples,  with  a  potato  scoop 
cut  out  small  balls,  dropping  them  into  water  with  a  little  vinegar  added  to  keep  them 
white.     Prepare  a  mixture  of  grapefruit  pulp,  pineapple  and  banana  and  put  into 
glasses ;  add  a  few  of  the  apple  balls,  pour  over  all  the  juice  left  from  the  fruit  which 
has  been  boiled  down  with  sugar ;  cool  and  serve  at  once  or  the  apples  may  turn 
brown. 

6.  Apple  Balls  Served  in  Symp. — Prepare  the  apple  balls  as  above :  prepare  a  rich 
sugar  syrup ;  color  with  a  little  pink  color  paste  and  drop  in  the  balls,  cook  slowly 
until  the  balls  are  softened,  pile  in  glasses  and  add  a  little  syrup  to  each  glass.     Serve- 
cold. 

7.  Broicn  Betty. — Pare  and  chop  six  apples ;   place  a   layer  of  apple   in  a   well 
buttered  pudding  dish,  then  a  layer  of  bread  crumbs,  sprinkle  with  brown  sugar  and 
cinnamon,  repeat  until  the  dish  is  full ;   add  several  generous  lumps  of  butter  and 
pour  sweet  milk  or  hot  water  on  until  it  comes  within  an  inch  of  the  top  of  the  pan. 
Bake  in  a  moderate  oven  until  brown  and  serve  with  plain  or  whipped  cream. 

8.  Apple  Butter. — Pare,  core  and  quarter  the  desired  quantity  of  apples,  allowing 
one  third  of  sweet  to  two  thirds  of  sour  apples.     Boil  sweet  cider  until  it  is  reduced 
one  half.    While  the  cider  is  boiling  rapidly  add  apples  until  the  mixture  is  the  desired 
thickness.     Cook  slowly,  stirring  constantly  and  skimming  when  necessary.     When  the 
apples  begin  to  separate  from  the  cider  take  two  pounds  of  sugar  to  each  bushel  of 
apples  used ;  add  a  little  ground  cinnamon  and  boil  until  it  remains  in  a  smooth  mass, 
when  a  little  is  cooled.     Usually  one  and  one  half  bushels  of  apples-  are  enough  for 
one  and  one  half  gallons  of  boiled  cider. 

9.  Apple  Biscuit. — To  one  pint  of  light  bread  sponge  add  one  quarter  cup  of 
molasses,  one  teaspoonful  of  lard  and  graham  or  whole  wheat  flour  for  a  soft  dough. 
Beat  vigorously  and  finally  work  into  the  dough  one  large  cup  of  chopped  apple : 
shape  the  dough  into  biscuit  and  pl:iro  in  muffin  pans  and  allow  them  to  be  very  light 
before  baking. 

10.  Dried  Apple  Butter.— Wash  one  pound  of  dried  or  evaporated  apples  thor- 
oughly, soak  over  night ;  in  the  morning  cook  with  plenty  of  water.  When  well  done 
rub  through  a  sieve  or  colander ;  add  sugar  and  cinnamon  to  taste,  the  juice  of  one 
lemon,  juice  of  two  oranges  and  butter  the  size  of  an  egg.  Cook  slowly  until  it  will 
drop  heavily  from  a  spoon. 


APPLE    GROWING    JN     CALIFORNIA.  107 

1 1.  .1  />/>/.  x  /•;//  r,/.v.s(  ,-olc. — Pare,  core  and  slice  two  quarts  of  apples  and  put  in  an 
rarthen  dish,  alternately,  with  one  and  one  half  cups  of  sugar;  add  one  fourth  cup  of 
cold  water,  cover  the  dish  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven.  Serve  either  hot  or  cold 
with  cream. 

1L'.  .(i>i>l<  charlotte.  I. — Soak  one  half  a  box  of  granulated  gelatine  in  one  half  cup 
of  cold  water  for  half  an  hour.  Whip  one  pint  of  cream  and  set  on  ice ;  add  one  half 
cup  of  powdered  sugar,  a  tablespoonful  of  lemon  juice  and  two  good  sized  apples, 
grated.  Dissolve  the  gelatine  over  hot  water  and  strain  into  the  mixture ;  stir  quickly 
and  pour  into  a  mould.  Set  on  ice  to  chill  and  serve. 

13.  Apple  Gh<irlntt<\  II. — Pare,  core  and  slice  apples;  cook  in  butter  until  soft  and 
dry  ;  add  sugar  to  taste.     Line  a  plain  mould  with  sippets  of  bread  an  inch  wide, 
dipped  in  melted  butter ;  let  one  overlap  the  other ;  arrange  lozenges  of  bread  similarly 
in  the  bottom  of  the  mould.     Fill  the  center  with  the  apple  and  cover  the  top  with 
bread.     Bake  for  half  an  hour  in  a  hot  oven.     Serve  with  cream  and  sugar  or  a  hot 
sauce. 

14.  Plain  Apple  Charlotte. — Soak  one  quarter  of  a  box  of  granulated  gelatine  in 
two  tablespooufuls  of  cold  water ;  add  to  one  pint  of  hot  apple  sauce,  flavor  and  press 
through  a  sieve.     As  soon  as  the  mixture  begins  to  harden  stir  in  one  pint  of  whipped 
cream.    Line  a  mould  with  ladyfingers,  pour  in  the  mixture  and  set  away  to  cool. 

15.  Apple   Cobbler. — Pare  and  quarter  enough  tart  apples   to  fill  a  baking  dish 
three  fourths  full.     Cover  with  a  rich  baking  powder  biscuit  dough  made  soft  enough 
to  stir,  spread  it  over  the  apples  without  rolling.    Make  several  cuts  in  the  center  to 
allow  the  steam  to  escape.     Bake  for  three  quarters  of  an  hour  and  serve  hot  with 
sugar  and  rich  cream. 

16.  Coddled  Apples. — Take  tart,  ripe  apples  of  uniform  size ;   remove  the  cores. 
Place  the  fruit  in  the  bottom  of  a  porcelain  kettle,  spread  thickly  with  sugar;  cover 
the  bottom  of  the  kettle  with  water  and  allow  the  apples  to  simmer  until  tender. 
Pour  the  syrup  over  the  apples  and  serve  cold. 

IT.  Apple  Conserve. — For  each  pound  of  quartered  and  pared  apples  allow  three 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  sugar  and  half  a  pint  of  water.  Boil  sugar  and  water  until 
a  rich  syrup  is  formed ;  add  the  apples  and  simmer  until  clear.  Take  up  carefully, 
lay  on  plates  and  dry  in  the  sun.  Roll  in  sugar  and  pack  in  tin  boxes  lined  with 
waxed  paper. 

18.  Compote  of  Apples. — One  pound  of  apples,  one  quarter  pound  of  lump  sugar, 
one  cup  of  water,  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  a  few  drops  of  red  coloring.     Put  the 
sugar,   water  and  lemon  juice  into  a  clean  enameled  sauce  pan  and  let  them  boil 
quickly  for  ten  minutes.    Meanwhile  peel  the  apples,  cut  them  in  quarters  and  remove 
the  cores.     Throw  the  pieces  into  the  boiling  syrup  and  let  them  cook  slowly  until 
clear  and  tender,  but  not  broken.     Then  remove  the  quarters  of  apples  carefully, 
reduce  the  syrup  a  little  and  color  it  pink  with  the  red  coloring.     Arrange  the  apples 
on  a  glass  dish  and  pour  the  syrup  over.     A  little  cream  or  custard  served  with  the 
compote  is  a  great  improvement.     If  the  apples  are  small  they  may  be  cored  and 
cooked  whole. 

19.  Apple  Compote  and  Orange  Marmalade. — Boil  twelve  tart  apples  in  one  quart 
of  water  until  tender,  strain  through  a  jelly  bag;  add  one  pound  of  granulated  sugar 
and  let  boil.     While  boiling  add  twelve  apples,  cored  and  pared.    When  the  apples  are 
tender  drain  them  carefully  in  a  perforated  skimmer.     Boil  the  syrup  until  it  jells ; 
fill  the  apples  with   orange  marmalade  and  pour  the  syrup  over  them.     Serve  with 
whipped  cream. 


108  APPLE    GROWING    IX    CALIFORNIA. 

20.  Cralj  .!/>/>/(•  Marmalade.- — Wash  and  core  crab  apples  and  put  them  through  the 
meat  chopper.  Put  into  a  preserving  kettle  and  add  water  until  it  shows  through 
the  top  layer  of  apples.  Cook  until  soft.  Weigh  and  add  an  equal  weight  of  sugar. 
Cook  until  the  mixture  forms  a  jelly  when  cooled  and  pour  into  sterilized  glasses. 
Cover  with  paraffine. 

21.  Apple  Custard. — Beat  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  and  add  one  half  cup  of  sugar : 
cook  for  one  or  two  minutes  and  remove  from  the  fire.     Gradually  add  one  pint  of 
grated  apple.     Pour  into  a  serving  dish  and  cover  with  a  meringue  made  of  the  well 
beaten  whites  of  four  eggs  and  three  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar. 

22.  Apple  Cup  Custard. — Pare,  core  and  steam  four  good  sized  tart  apples  until 
tender ;  press  through  a  sieve.     While  hot  add  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  four  table- 
spoonfuls  of  sugar,  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  and  one  half  pint  of  milk.    Turn  into  baking 
cups  and  bake  for  twenty  minutes.    Beat  the  \vhites  of  four  eggs  until  stiff,  add  four 
tablespoonfuls  of  sugar,  beat  and  heap  over  the  top  of  the  cups ;  dust  thickly  with 
powdered  sugar  and  brown  in  the  oven.     Serve  cold. 

23.  Apple  Custards. — Steam  two  large  tart  apples  that  have  been  peeled  and  cored. 
Rub  them  through  a  sieve  and  add  one  cupful  of  milk,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  butter,  one 
quarter  of  a  cupful  of  sugar  and  the  yolks  of  four  eggs.    Turn  the  mixture  into  baking- 
cups,  stand  them  in  hot  water  and  bake  about  twenty  minutes.     When  they  come  from 
the  oven  pile  the  beaten  white  of  egg  on  top  of  each  cup,  sprinkle  with  powdered 
sugar  and  place  in  the  oven  to  brown  slightly.     Serve  cold. 

24.  Apple  Croquettes. — Pare,  quarter  and  core  enough  tart  apples  to  make  a  pint ; 
place  in  a  saucepan  with  one  small  tablespoonful  of  butter  and,  if  the  apples  are  not 
juicy,  a  few  tablespoonfuls  of  water.     Cover  and  stew  gently  until  tender,  then  press 
through  a  sieve.     Return  to  the  fire  and  add  sugar.     Add  one  tablespoonful  of  corn- 
starch  and  one  quarter  of  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  mix  to  a  thin  paste  with  cold  water ; 
stir  until  thickened,  cover  and  cook  slowly  for  fifteen  minutes.    Turn  out  on  a  greased 
dish  and  set  away  until  cold.     Form  into  tiny  croquettes,  roll  in  bread  crumbs,  dip 
in  lightly  beaten  egg,  then  roll  again  in  crumbs  and  fry  in  deep  fat ;  drain  on  unglazed 
paper  and  serve  with  roast  pork  or  roast  goose. 

25.  Delmonico  Apples. — Put  a  layer  of  apple  sauce  in  a  buttered  pudding  dish, 
sprinkle  with  ground  almonds,  dot  with  butter  and  sprinkle  with  crushed  macaroons, 
add  a  little  water  and  bake.     Delicious  when  served  with  meat. 

26.  Apple  Delight. — Put  a  layer  of  apple  sauce  in  a  buttered  pudding  dish,  dot  with 
butter,  add  a  layer  of  chopped  peaches  and  apricots,  sprinkle  with  blanched  almonds, 
ground  rather  coarsely ;  repeat  until  pan  is  full ;  pour  the  peach  juice  over  the 
mixture  and  bake  for  one  hour.  Serve  as  a  relish  with  meat  course. 

27.  East  India  Chutney   (Apple). — Pare  and  core  twelve  sour  apples.     Peel  one 
medium  sized  onion.     Remove  seeds  and  stems  from   three  peppers,   one  of  which 
should  be  red.     Chop  apples,  peppers,  onion  and  one  cup  of  raisins  very  fine  ;  add 
the  juice  of  four  lemons,  one  pint  of  cider  vinegar  and  half  a  cup  of  currant  jelly  ; 
let  simmer  very  gently  for  one  hour,   stirring  frequently.     Add  one  pint  of  cider 
vinegar,  two  cups  of  sugar,  one  tablespoonful  each  of  salt  and  ground  ginger  and 
one  fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  cayenne  ;  cook  for  one  hour  more,  stirring  constantly. 
Store  as  canned  fruit. 

28.  Apple  Farci. — Choose  tart  red  apples,  Northern  Spys  if  possible ;  wash,  wipe 
and  core.     Do  not  pare.     With  the  corer  remove  apple  in  three  places,  equally  distant 
from  stem  and  blossom  end,  holding  corer  in  oblique  position  and  pressing  downward 
toward   center.      Fill    these   cavities    with    raisins,    dates    or   figs,    sugar,    cinnamon. 
Canned  or  fresh  pineapple  is  delicious  filling.     Always  use  raisins,  placing  them  in 
the  cavities  first  to  prevent  the  other  filling  from  slipping  through.     After  filling 
place  the  apples  in  a  pan  that  has  been  sprinkled  with  sugar  and  cinnamon.     Sprinkle 


APPLE    GRO\YIN<;     IN    r  A  I.I  FOR  XI  A.  109 

•  :ich  apple  with  su-.ir  and  cinnamon.  Place  in  a  hot  oven  until  the  suirar  melts. 
ih.  'ii  add  one  fourth  cup  of  water  or  fruit  juice  and  bake  until  tender.  l\-.\<\<- 
frequently  with  thr  syrup.  Serve  either  hot  or  cold  with  whipped  cream  Crinkled 
with  cocoa. 

•_".».  Ai>i>ii*  Fricil  irith  Onions.  —  Peel  onions  and  slice.  Fry  in  far  until  a  rich 
brown:  drain  on  soft  brown  paper.  Fry  unpsuvd  quarters  of  apple  in  the  fat  left 
from  ill.-  onions.  Arrange  apples  in  a  border  on  a  platter.  fill  center  with  tin-  fried 
onions  and  serve  them  hot. 

30.  Fried  Apples.  —  Quarter  and  core  five  apples  without  paring.  Put  into  a  t'ryinir 
pan  and  melt  beef  drippings:  when  hot  lay  a  layer  of  apples  in  it.  skin  side 
down,  sprinkle  with  brown  sugar,  and  when  nearly  done  turn  and  brown:  place  on  a 
platter  and  sprinkle  with  sugar;  set  in  hot  oven  and  continue  frying  apples  one  layer 
at  a  time. 

.'M.  .\i>i>l  /'////'  /v.  I.  Mix  and  sift  one  and  one  third  cups  of  flour,  two  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  baking  powder  and  one  fourth  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Add  gradually,  while 
Mirrinir  constantly,  two  thirds  of  a  cup  of  milk  and  one  egg  well  beaten.  Wipe,  core, 
p.-ire  and  cut  two  medium  sized  sour  apples  into  eighths,  then  slice  the  eighths  and 
stir  into  the  batter.  Drop  by  the  spoonful  into  hot  deep  fat  and  fry  until  delicately 
In-owned  ;  drain  on  brown  paper  and  sprinkle  with  powdered  sugar. 

'.V2.  .\/>]t/>  FrittiTx,  II.  —  Pare  and  core  four  tart  apples  and  cut  in  one  fourth 
inch  slices  across  the  apple.  Sprinkle  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  lemon  juice  and 
powdered  sugar.  Prepare  a  batter  by  sifting  one  cup  of  flour  and  one  fourth  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt.  Add  two  well  beaten  yolks  to  one  half  cup  of  milk  :  mix  and  beat 
into  the  flour  until  smooth.  Add  one  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter  or  olive  oil  and 
cut  in  the  well  beaten  whites  of  two  eggs.  Drain  the  apples,  dip  into  the  batter  and 
fry  in  deep  fat.  When  cooked  drain  on  brown  paper  and  sprinkle  with  powdered 
sugar  before  serving. 

33.  Oxford  Apples.  —  Pare,  core  and  quarter  four  large  tart  apples  and  boil  in  very 
little  water.  Mash  and  add  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  half  a  cup  of  sugar,  half  a 
cn.p  of  fine  bread  crumbs,  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  and  the  whites  of  two  eggs  beaten 
liirht.  Pour  into  a  baking  dish  and  cover  with  a  meringue  made  of  the  whites  of  two 
eggs  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar  and  brown. 


:U.  .  I  /!/»/»*  irith  ()(tt,ncaL  —  Core  apples,  leaving  large  cavities,  pare  and  cook  in  a 
svrnp  made  by  boiling  one  cup  of  sugar  with  one  and  one  half  cups  of  water  for  five 
minutes.  When  the  apples  are  soft  drain  and  fill  cavities  with  the  hot.  well  cooked 
meal  and  serve  with  cream  and  sugar. 

3.~>.  ffaunayc*  unil  i'ri'il  \/>i>I<'#.  —  Prick  the  sausages  well  with  a  fork.  Place  in  a 
deep  frying  pan,  pour  in  enough  boiling  water  to  cover  the  bottom,  cover  and  cook 
over  a  moderate  fire.  When  the  water  evaporates  remove  the  -cover  and  turn  several 
times  that  they  may  be  nicely  browned.  Turn  on  to  a  platter.  Con-  a  number  of 
larire  tart  apples,  cut  them  in  rings  an  inch  thick  and  fry  in  the  sausage  t'ai.  <iarnish 
the  sausage  with  the  apples  and  serve. 

36.  Apple  Tapioca.  —  Soak  three  fourths  of  a  cup  of  tapioca  in  water  for  one  hour 
to  cover,  drain,  add  two  and  one  half  cups  of  boiling  water  and  one  half  teaspoonful 
ir;  cook  in  double  boiler  until  transparent.  Core  and  pare  apples,  arrange  in  a 
buttered  baking  dish,  till  cavities  with  suirar.  pour  tapioca  over  apples  and  bake  in  a 
moderate  oven  until  the  apples  are  soft.  Serve  with  snirar  and  cream  or  with  cream 
sauce.  Sago  may  be  used  instead  of  tapioca. 

CREAM  S.\i  <  i  Mix  and  beat  until  stiff  three  fourths  of  a  cup  of  thick  cream  and 
one  fourth  of  a  cup  of  milk,  add  one  third  of  a  cup  of  powdered  sugar  and  one  half 
>•  aspoonful  of  vanilla. 


110  APPLE   GROWING   IN   CALIFORNIA. 

37.  Apple  Water — Wipe,  core  and  pare  one  large  sour  apple,  put  two  teaspoonfuls 
of  sugar  in  the  cavity ;  bake  until  tender,  mash,  pour  one  cup  of  boiling  water  over 
it  and  let  stand  one  half  hour  and  strain.  This  is  especially  refreshing  for  fever 
patients. 

38.  Apple  Christmas  Pudding. — Pare,  core  and  quarter  six  tart  apples.  Add  a  cup 
of  water,  cover  and  boil  quickly  for  five  minutes.  Press  through  a  sieve ;  add  a  table- 
spoonful  of  butter  and  a  cup  of  sugar.  Beat  three  eggs  until  light ;  add  one  pint  of 
milk  and  a  cup  of  hot  boiled  rice.  Add  the  apples  and  bake  for  half  an  hour.  Lemon 
and  orange  rind  may  be  added.  Serve  cold  with  cream  or  lemon  sauce. 

39.  Apple  Sauce  Pudding. — Cream  one  quarter  cup  of  butter  with  one  half  cup  of 
brown  sugar;  add  one  beaten  egg,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  milk,  one  half  teaspoonful 
of  baking  powder  and  enough  flour  to  make  a  stiff  batter.     Bake  in  two  layers,  put 
together/ while  hot  with  apple  sauce  and  serve  with  custard. 

40.  Apples  Baked  in  Strawberry  Jam. — Core  tart  apples  and  place  in  a  baking 
dish ;  fill  the  cavities  with  strawberry  jam  and  bake  until  soft.     Serve  hot  with  cream. 

• 

41.  English  Apple  Pie. — Butter  a  shallow  agate  dish.     Select  one  that  is  deeper 
than  a  pie  plate.     Fill  the  dish  with  sliced  apples,  sprinkle  with  a  cup  of  sugar,  half 
a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  a  little  nutmeg.     Put  over  it  two  teaspoonfuls  of  butter  in 
bits ;  add  three  tablespoonfuls  of  cold  water.     Cover  with  good  paste  and  bake  for 
forty  minutes.     Serve  with  cream. 

42.  Pot  Apple  Pie. — Peel  and  quarter  eight  nice  tart  apples    (Greenings  are  the 
best),  and  slice  in  strips  about  half  a  pound  of  fat  salt  pork  and  mix  a  nice  light 
biscuit  dough.    Then  take  an  iron  kettle  and  lay  strips  of  the  pork  across  the  bottom 
about  half  an  inch  apart,  then  lay  on  that  loosely  some  of  the  quartered  apples,  then 
sugar  and  cinnamon,  then  slice  your  biscuit  dough  in  strips  about  the  same  as  the 
pork  and  crosswise,  leaving  about  an  inch  between  each  strip.     Repeat  this  operation 
until  you  have  used  up  your  material,  having  the  biscuit  dough  on  top  ;  then  pour 
down  the  side  of  the  kettle  carefully  a  cup  of  boiling  water,  cover  and  cook  slowly 
for  one  hour  and  a  half,  adding  boiling  water  when  necessary.     This  is  delicious 
when  served  with  whipped  cream. 

43.  Apple  Pie  Decorated  with  Cream  and  Cheese. — Make  an  apple  pie  after  your 
favorite  recipe.     Have  ready  a  cream  cheese,  press  through  a  ricer,  cut  and  fold  into 
the  cheese  a  cup  of  double  cream  beaten  until  solid ;  add  a  few  grains  of  salt.     Put 
this  mixture  through  a  pastry  tube,  in  any  pattern,  on  top  of  the  pie.     Serve  as  a 
dessert  at  either  luncheon  or  dinner. 

44.  Date  and  Apple  Pie. — Line  a  pie  plate  with  a  rather  rich  crust ;  fill  it  with  a 
mixture  of  chopped  dates  and  apples,  sprinkle  over  half  a  cup  of  sugar  and  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  cinnamon;  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  water,  cover  with  a  top  crust  and 
bake  about  one  half  hour  in  a  moderate  oven. 

45.  Apple  Peanut  Salad. — Pare,  core  and  chop  slightly  acid  apples  and  mix  them 
with  half  as  much  chopped  celery.     Mix  a  dressing  of  peanut  butter,  using  five  table- 
spoonfuls  of  lemon  juice  to  one  tablespoonful  of  peanut  butter.     Mix  dressing  through 
the  apples  and  celery  and  season  with  salt  and  cayenne  pepper.     Chill  the  salad  and 
serve  on  lettuce  and  garnish  with  peanuts. 

46.  Apple,  Orange  and  Peach  Salad. — Equal  parts  of  apples,  peaches  and  oranges 
are  cut  into  cubes  and  mixed  with  cream  dressing.     Serve  in  apple  shells  or  in  the 
rind  of  oranges. 

47.  Apple  Chicken  Salad. — Take  six  ripe  apples  and  scoop  out  the  centers ;  fill 
them  with  cold  cooked  chicken,  minced  fine,  seasoned  with  finely  minced  green  peppers 
and  salt,  with  enough  cream  to  moisten.     Place  apples  in  a  steamer  and  cook  until 
almost  tender.     Put  them  on  ice  and  serve  with  mayonnaise  on  lettuce. 


APPLE    GROWING     IN     CALIFORNIA.  Ill 

48.  .\i'i>l<  Salad.  —  Chop  one  half  pound  of  cold  veal  or  lean  pork  and  two  large 
tart  apples;  add  two  chopped  pickles,  one  tablespoonful  of  olive  oil,  one  tablespoonful 
ot  vineirar.  season  with  salt  and  pepper  and  mix  with  mayonnaise  dressing. 


49.  .!/>/</'    dud   (.'ahlxtge  Salad.  —  Shave  cabbage  fine  and  soak   for  one   hour  in 
celery  water,  made  by  adding  one  teaspoonful  of  celery  salt  to  each  quart  of  water. 
Drain  and  dry  on  a  soft  towel.     Add  an  equal  amount  of  apple  cut  into  match-like 
pieces:  mix  with  boiled  dressing. 

50.  -I/'/'/'    and  Cheese  Salad.  —  Mix  some  chopped  pecans  with  twice  their  bulk  of 
cream  cheese,  adding  a  little  thick  cream  to  blend  the  mixture.     Season  with  pepper 
and  salt  and  make  into  tiny  balls.     Pare  mellow,  tart  apples,  core  and  slice  across 
the  center  into  rings  about  one  half  inch  thick,  then  arrange  rings  on  lettuce  leaves 
iind  place  several  cheese  balls  in  the  center.     Serve  with  cream  salad  dressing. 


112  APPLE    GROWING    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

CHAPTER  XIX. 

INSECTICIDES  AND  FUNGICIDES. 

In  spraying  the  apple  for  the  control  of  the  various  insect  pests  and 
fungous  diseases  that  affect  this  fruit,  there  are  many  different  formula* 
used,  the  principal  of  which  are  given  herewith,  under  the  headings  Con- 
tact Insecticides,  Poisonous  Insecticides  and  Fungicides. 

CONTACT    INSECTICIDES. 

Lime-sulphur  ( commercial ) . 
Lime-sulphur  ( home-made ) . 
Nicotine. 

Kerosene  emulsion. 
Distillate  emulsion. 
Crude  oil  emulsion. 
Whale  oU  soap. 

POISONOUS  INSECTICIDES. 

Arsenate  of  lead. 
Paris  green. 
Arsenite  of  zinc. 

FUNGICIDES. 
Bordeaux  mixture. 
Lime-sulphur    ( commercial ) . 
Lime-sulphur    ( home-made ) . 
Lime-sulphur    ( self-boiled ) . 
Tron-sulphid   (see  Apple  Mildew). 
Atomic   and   Milled   sulphur. 

SPRAY   FORMUL/C. 
Li  me- Sulphur — Commercial. 

Practically  every  insecticide  company  manufactures  lime-sulphur, 
consequently  there  are  a  great  many  different  brands  on  the  market, 
most  of  which  are  good.  This  material  comes  in  liquid  form  and  is 
diluted  with  water,  using  1  part  of  the  liquid  to  10  parts  of  water  for  a 
dormant  spray,  and  1  to  35  for  summer  use  on  apples. 

Li  me -Sulphur — Home-made. 

Stone  lime   40  pounds. 

Sulphur 30  pounds. 

Water    .                                                                               „_  100  gallons. 

Preparation. — Bring  about  50  gallons  of  water  to  a  boil  in  some 
suitable  vessel,  or  a  sufficient  amount  for  slaking  the  40  pounds  of  lime. 
Add  the  sulphur  and  mix  as  well  as  possible  with  the  water.  When  the 
water  is  hot  put  in  the  lime,  which  will  slake  almost  instantly  with  the 
generation  of  a  great  amounjt  of  heat.  This  is  desirable,  as  it  helps  effect 
a  combination  of  the  lime  and  sulphur  at  the  start.  The  mixture  should 


APPLE   GROWING   IN    CALIFORNIA.  113 

now  be  boiled  for  at  least  45  minutes.    When  finished  it  is  a  bright  red 
color,  which  often  turns  olive  green  upon  further  boiling.    There  is  no 
danger  of  boiling  too  long,  but  on  the  other  hand  too  little  boiling  may 
be  responsible  for  a  poor  spray. 
Lime-sulphur  is  one  of  our  best  insecticides,  as  well  as  fungicides. 

Nicotine. 

For  the  various  plant  lice  which  affect  apples  there  is  nothing  better 
to  apply  during  the  summer  season  than  nicotine,  in  some  form  or  other. 
The  most  commonly  used  nicotine  spray  is  Black  Leaf  "40,"  and  it  is 
usually  applied  at  the  strength  of  1  part  of  water  to  1000  parts  of  the 
nicotine  solution.  The  addition  of  5  pounds  or  more  of  soap  to  100 
gallons  of  the  diluted  spray  adds  to  its  efficiency. 

Kerosene  Emulsion. 

Water    1  gallon. 

Kerosene  2  gallons. 

Hard  soap  1  pound. 

Preparation. — Bring  the  gallon  of  water  to  a  boil  and  dissolve  the 
soap  in  it ;  while  hot  add  the  kerosene,  agitating  the  mixture  violently 
for  fifteen  minutes  or  more.  A  cream-like  emulsion  should  be  formed, 
which  will  mix  readily  with  cold  water.  A  stock  solution,  containing 
66f  per  cent  oil,  is  obtained  by  this  process,  and  may  be  diluted  to  any 
desired  strength. 

H.  F.  Wilson,  of  the  Oregon  Agricultural  College,  gives  a  simple 
method  for  determining  the  strength  to  be  used,  which  is  as  follows: 
Divide  200  by  the  per  cent  desired,  and  subtract  3 ;  this  will  give  the 
amount  of  water  necessary  to  add  to  each  3  gallons  of  stock  solution  for 
the  desired  per  cent.  Example:  A  15  per  cent  solution  is  desired;  200 
divided  by  15  equals  13^,  minus  3  equals  10£;  this  amount  of  water 
added  to  3  gallons  of  stock  solution  will  give  the  15  per  cent  emulsion, 

-Distillate    Emulsion. 

Distillate    (28°   Baume") 20  gallons. 

Whale  oil  soap 30  pounds. 

Water  to  mix  12  gallons. 

Preparation. — Dissolve  the  whale  oil  soap  in  the  water,  heat  in  <;  it  to 
the  boiling  point;  add  the  distillate  and  agitate  thoroughly  while  the 
solution  is  hot.  For  use  add  from  10  to  20  gallons  of  water  to  each 
gallon  of  the  above  mixture. 

Crude  Oil    Emulsion. 

Water    175  gallons. 

Liquid  soap j. 3  gallons. 

t'nide   oil    25  gallons. 

Preparation.—  Fill  the  spray  tank  with  the  17.")  Callous  of  water1:  add 
the  liquid  soaj>:  airitate  thoroughly  for  one  minute,  after  which  add  the 
crude  oil.  continuing  the  agitation. 

*Copied  from  "Injurious  and  Beneficial  Insects  of  California,"  by  E.  O.  Essig. 


8—13683 


114  APPLE   GROWING    IN    CALIFORNIA. 

If  the  liquid  soap  can  not  be  had,  use  20  pounds  whale  oil  soap,  dis- 
solved in  10  gallons  of  boiling  water,  to  which  3  pounds  of  lye  have  been 
added. 

Whale  Oil  Soap. 

This  soap  is  often  used  in  combination  with  nicotine  sprays,  to 
increase  their  penetration  and  spreading  qualities.  Alone  as  a  spray  for 
apple  aphids  it  is  very  valuable,  when  used  at  the  strength  of  1  pound 
of  soap  to  5  gallons  of  water. 

The  ordinary  form  of  this  soap  has  to  be  melted  before  being  used. 
There  is,  however,  a  liquid  form  on  the  market  which  is  much  more 
conveniently  handled. 

Arsenate  of  Lead. 

This  is  the  most  commonly  used  arsenical  spray  in  the  apple  orchard, 
and  ordinarily  is  applied  at  the  strength  of  3  pounds  paste  to  50  gallons 
of  water.  This  amount  is  sufficient  to  kill  codling  moth,  canker  worm, 
tent  caterpillar  and  other  larvte  which  feed  upon  foliage  and  fruit. 
A  powdered  form  of  arsenate  of  lead  is  also  on  the  market  and  should 
be  used  according  to  the  directions  on  container. 

Paris  Green. 

In  the  past  this  arsenical  poison  has  been  very  extensively  used  in 
spraying  for  the  control  of  chewing  insects,  but  its  use  has  been  super- 
seided  by  the  safer  and  generally  better  arsenate  of  lead.  For  codling 
moth  and  other  chewing  insects  it  should  be  applied  at  the  strength  of 
f  pound  to  100  gallons  of  water.  On  account  of  the  likelihood  of  there 
being  more  or  less  soluble  arsenic  in  the  Paris  green,  which  may  blight 
the  foliage,  lime  in  small  quantities  should  always  be  added  to  the  spray. 
Five  pounds  of  stone  lime,  slaked,  to  every  100  gallons  of  liquid  is 
sufficient. 

Arsenite  of  Zinc. 

The  above  is  one  of  the  newer  arsenical  insecticides,  and  gives 
splendid  results  in  killing  certain  insects,  which  are  more  or  less  resis- 
tant to  arsenate  of  lead  poisoning,  as  well  as  all  those  for  which  the 
arsenate  of  lead  is  used.  It  is  a  less  stable  compound  and  for  that  reason 
considerable  damage  has  been  done  to  trees  and  fruit  because  of  its 
having  burned  the  foliage.  It  is  probably  safe  for  the  calyx  application 
in  spraying  for  codling  moth. 

Bordeaux   Mixture. 

Copper  sulphate _ 10  pounds. 

Stone  lime    (unslaked) 10  pounds. 

Water    100  gallons. 

Preparation. — The  copper  sulphate  is  first  dissolved  by  suspending  the 
weighed  amount  in  a  sack,  in  a  sufficient  quantity  of  water.  The  lime 
is  slaked  in  an  equal  amount  of  water  and  the  two  liquids  poured 
together  into  the  spray  tank,  where  the  agitator  will  keep  the  liquid 
properly  mixed. 


APPLE   GROWING   IN    CALIFORNIA.  115 

This  is  one  of  the  oldest  fungicides,  and  one  which  we  might  term  the 
standard. 

Lime-Sulphur   (Self-boiled). 

Stone  lime 8  pounds. 

Sulphur 8  pounds. 

Water    50  gallons. 

/'/•»  I,H  ration. — The  preparation  differs  from  that  of  the  home  made 
boiled  lime-sulphur,  in  that  only  the  heat  of  the  lime,  which  is  generated 
during  the  slacking  process,  is  utilized.  It  is  made  in  a  barrel  or  tank, 
which  may  be  covered  tightly  to  retain  the  heat  for  about  15  or  20 
minutes,  when  a  slight  amount  of  the  sulphur  and  lime  will  have  com- 
bined. It  is  diluted  with  cold  water,  after  being  strained. 

In  some  of  the  states  to  the  east  the  self -boiled  lime-sulphur  alone, 
or  in  combination  with  arsenate  of  lead,  has  been  used  very  successfully 
for  apple  scab  and  mildew,  but  has  not  been  generally  recommended 
under  California  conditions. 

Atomic  or   Milled  Sulphur. 

Very  finely  divided  sulphur  may  now  be  purchased  for  spraying  pur- 
poses. The  forms  known  as  ' '  Atomic ' '  and  * '  Milled ' '  sulphurs  are  com- 
monly used  for  mites  with  great  success,  and  are  excellent  mildew  fungi- 
cides. The  directions  for  mixing  come  with  the  packages. 


INDEX.  1  1  7 


INDEX. 

PAGE 
A«'KKA«;E.   by  counties 8 

Yellow    Newtowns    and    Yellow    Bellflowers    in    Pa.iaro    Valley 29 

AGE,   influences  size  of  fruit 67 

one  year  old  tree  best 36 

ALEXANDER 14.    15,   36 

ALSOPHILA     POMETARIA 89 

ANNUAL    PRUNING 54 

APHELINIS     MA  LI 85 

.1  /'///S.  art  nn 88 

bakcri    88 

destruction   of   young  grafts 61 

gossypii    88 

green   apple 23,   86 

medicaginis 88 

other  apple  species 87 

pomi 86 

purple    aphis 86 

sorbi     86 

species  affecting  the  apple 84 

woolly  aphis 23,  84,   85 

APPLE,  acreage  bearing 8 

acreage    non-bearing 8 

age    to    plant 36 

budding    32 

butter   102 

crab 16 

deep   rooting  trees  desirable 85 

insect   pests  of 79 

propagation  of 31 

root-grafting    34 

seedlings 31 

selection  of  trees  for  planting 35 

summer    varieties 15 

MH'HIPS    ARGYROSPILA 89 

ARKANSAS    15,    16 

ARKANSAS  BLACK 15,    16 

AKMILLARIA   MELLEA 92 

ARSENATE  OF  LEAD 75,  81,   112,  114 

ARSENITE  OF  ZINC 81,  93,  112,   114 

ASPHALTUM   FOR  TREATING   WOUNDS 59 

ASPIDIOTUS  PERNICIOSUS 88 

ATOMIC  SULPHUR 96,  112,   115 

BACILLUS    AMYLOVORUS 92 

BACTERIUM     TUMEFACIEN8 93 

BAILEY    SWEET 15 

BALDWIN 14,  15,   16.  35,   67 

BALDWIN    SPOT 16 

BALLARD,  W.  S 56,  57,  94 

BANANA 15,   28 

BEN  DAVIS 15,  16,  36,  72 

IJKNTON,  J.  F 101 

BIETIGHEIMER     1 15 

BLACK  BEN 14,    15,   16 

IILACK  LEAF  40 _' 76,   85,  86,  87,   88,   113 

MU<;HT is,  92 

BLISTER    MITE 91 

BLOOMING  OF  VARIETIES 36 

BORDEAUX    MIXTURE—                                                           93,  112 

BORERS,  conditions  favorable  for 47 

flat  headed  of  apple 90 

BOYD,   E.   N 24 


1.18  INDEX. 

PAGE 

BRACING,    NATURAL 57 

BREMNER,    O.    E 87 

BROWN   MITE 90 

BRYOBIA    PRATENSIS 90 

BUDDING    32 

in  new  growth  of  old  trees 60 

operation    of 34 

BUDS,    for    budding   purposes 31 

health    promotes    frost    resistance 73 

only  healthy  should  be  used  for  budding 32 

selected  carelessly  for  budding 36 

tying     of 34 

BUD- WOOD 32 

BY-PRODUCTS 102,    103 

CALYX  SPRAY  FOR  CODLING  MOTH 81 

CANADA    RED 15 

CAPILLARITY    OF    SOILS 64 

CHAMPION    15 

CHENANGO    15 

CHIONASPIS  FURFURA 88 

CHRYSOBOTHRIS  FEMORATA 90 

CIDER 102 

CLEFT   GRAFTING 60 

CLIMBING    CUTWORMS 90 

COAL  HEATERS  FOR  FROST  PROTECTION.., 73 

CODLING  MOTH 15,   67,   68,  75 

control  of 76,  78,  79,  81,  82,   83,  84,  114 

life  history  of . 79,    80 

COMMERCIAL    FERTILIZERS . 65 

CONSUMPTION  OF  APPLES 104 

CONTACT    INSECTICIDES 112 

COOK'S    SEEDLING 15 

CORROSIVE    SUBLIMATE,    disinfectant 92 

COVER  CROPS 63,    65 

CRAB    APPLES 16,    31 

CROPPING  PREVIOUS  TO   SETTING  TREES 39 

CROSS    POLLINATION 35 

CROWN  GALL 32,    37,    93 

CRUDE  OIL  EMULSION 87,  112,  113 

CULTIVATION 63,    73 

CUT-WORMS,    climbing 90 

DELAWARE    RED 15 

DELICIOUS 14,  15,  17,  35 

DEPTH  TO  PLANT 44 

DISEASES  OF  THE  APPLE 92,   96 

freedom    from 37 

DISTILLATE   EMULSION 86,    112,    113 

DRIED     APPLES 102 

DUST    MULCH 64 

DYNAMITING  FOR  HARDPAN 42 

EARLY  HARVEST 15,  36 

EMPOASCA    MALI 88 

ERIOPHYES  PYRI 91 

ERIOSOMA     LANIGERA 84 

ESOPUS 14,   15,   25,   35 

ESSIG,   E.  O 88,    114 

FALLA WATER    15 

FALL  CANKER  WORM 89 

FALL    PIPPIN 15,    36 

FAMEUSE 14,   15,   36 

FEMMONS,    FRANK 17 

FERTILIZERS 62,  63,  65 

FIRING   FOR   FROST    PROTECTION 73 

FLAT  HEADED  APPLE  TREE  BORER 90 

FLAT    HEADED    BORERS—  46 


INDEX.  119 

1  '.\<;K 
FLORENCE  CRAB 16 

FORMULAE,   spray _  112,    115 

FOURTH  AND  FIFTH  SEASON  PRUNING 54 

FROST,   early   blooming  varieties  affected  by 23 

injury  from 70,    72 

orchard  heating  to  prevent  injury  from 73 

protection  from __73,   74 

relation  to  apple  growing 

smudging  to   control 73 

susceptibility   of   varieties    to    injury   from 72 

FRUIT  SPURS  DEVELOPED  BY  SUMMER  PRUNING __56,  57 

FUNGI,    rot I  , 

FUNGICIDES    __112,    115 

•  ;.\xo    16 

GILLETTE,  C.   P 87 

GLORIA    MUNDI 15 

G  HADING __97,    98 

GRAFTING 32 

methods   of go 

selection  of  stock  for , 31 

waxes    61 

GRAVENSTEIN 5.   14.   15.   19,  35 

methods  of  pruning  at  Sebastopol 53 

show  at  Sebastopol 104 

GRAY,   GEO.    P 93 

GREEN  APPLE  APHIS —23,    76,    88 

GRIMES 15,   19,   28 

GRIMES  GOLDEN  PIPPIN 19 

GYPSUM   IN   SOILS 38 

HARDPAN     38 

breaking  with   dynamite 42 

HARROWING    40 

HASSLER,   J.   E ft 

HEATING  THE   ORCHARD 

HEMEROCAMPA    VETUSTA 89 

HEXAGONAL   SYSTEM   FOR   PLANTING 40 

HOLES,    digging   for   trees 42 

filling    in 44 

HOOVER    15 

HOSE  FOR  SPRAYING 77 

HUMUS 39,    65 

HYSLOP  CRAB 1  6.  36 

ILLUSTRATIONS — 

boxes  of  fruit  stored  in  packing  house,  fig.  52 98 

bracing,  natural,  fig.   39 58 

budding  operations,  figs.  17,  18,  19 _-32.   33 

calyces  right  for  codling  moth  spray,  fig.    48 82 

carton  for  apples,  figs.  55,  56 —  __101,   102 

Delicious,  fig.   3 17 

Delicious  tree,  heavily  loaded,  fig.   4 18 

framework,   crowded,    fig.    27 48 

framework  formed  with  three  branches,  fig.   29 49 

frost  injury,  figs.  45,  46 71 

frost   russet,    fig.    47 72 

Gravenstein,    fig.    5 18 

Gravenstein  pruning,   fig.    35 54 

Gravenstein  well   headed,   fig.   36 55 

Grimes,  fig.  6 19 

growth  of  heavily  pruned  Winesap,   fig.   33 51 

heavily  prum-d  young  Winesap,  fig.  32 51 

jelly  exhibit,  fig.  57 103 

Jonathan,  fig.  7 20 

Jonathan   trees,  fine  specimens,  fig.   8__  21 

Jonathan  trc*-,  well  loaded,  fig.  9 22 

mildew  on  apple  twig,  fig.   50 94 


120  INDEX. 

ILLUSTRATIONS— Continued.  PAGE 

orchard  at   Tehachapi,   set  well,   fig.    24 42 

orchard  scene  near  Julian,  fig.   2 7 

orchard  scene  near  Sugar  Pine,  fig.  1 6 

packed  boxes,  Yellow  Bellflowers,  fig.  53 99 

packed  box  showing  bulge,  fig.   54 100 

picking  bucket,  fig.   51 97 

planting  systems,  figs.   20,   21,    22,   23 41 

Rome   Beauty,    fig.    10 23 

Rome    Beauty,    young   tree,    fig.    11 24 

saw,   pruning,   fig.    40 59 

scab  on  apple,   fig.    49 93 

Sebastopol  Apple  Show  Exhibit,  fig.   58 105 

second  season  pruning,   figs.    30,   31 50 

setting  board,  fig.   25 44 

shears,  pruning,  fig.   41 59 

shears,    thinning,   fig.    44 69 

Stayman  Winesap,  heavily  loaded,  fig.   12 25 

summer  pruned  Yellow  Newtown,  fig.  37 56 

third  season  pruning,  fig.   34 53 

tillage  well  cared  for,  figs.  42,  43 63,   64 

tree  shown  in  figs.  32,  33,  pruned,  fig.   33a 52 

unpruned,  branches  slender,  fig.   28 : 48 

Winesap,    fig.    14 27 

WinterPearmain,   fig.    13 26 

Yellow    Bellflower,    fig.    15 29 

Yellow  Newtown,  fig.  16 , 30 

Yellow  Newtowns  on  summer  pruned  tree.  fig.   38 57 

young  tree  cut  back  when  set,  fig.  26 47 

INSECTICIDES    _  112 

INSECT  PESTS  OF  THE  APPLE 79 

INSPECTION  BY  COUNTY  HORTICULTURAL  COMMISSIONERS 37 

INTERCROPPING     62 

IRON  SULPHIDE 95,  112 

IRRIGATION     63 

difficult  with   improper   leveling 39 

influence  of  plowing  upon . 40 

influence    upon    frost 73 

of   young  orchard 45 

relation    to    intercrops _ 62 

JELLY,  apple 16,  102 

exhibit  at  California  Apple  Show___ 103 

JONATHAN __14,  15,  20,  21,  22,  31,  35 

relation  of  early  blooming  to  freezing 72 

spot   disease   of 21 

JULIAN   DUCHESS - 14,    15 

KENTUCKY    RED    STREAK 36 

KERF    GRAFTING 60 

KEROSENE   EMULSION 112,  113 

KESWICK     CODLING 15 

KING   14,    15 

KING  DAVID 14,   15,   21 

LABELS    FOR    BOXES -  100 

LANKFORD     15 

LAWYER 15 

LAYING   OUT    ORCHARD   TRACT--    __• 43 

LEAD  PAINT  FOR  WOUNDS 59 

LEAF  HOPPER  OF  THE  APPLE 88 

LEAF  ROLLER  OF  THE  APPLE 89 

LEGUMES 39,   62 

LEPIDOSAPHES     ULMI _  — 

LEVELING    39 

LIME,  addition  to  soils  deficient  in 66 

for  whitewash 45 

use  with  Paris  green 81,  114 


LJME-8ULPHUB 
•  i.inn,.  rdal 


121 


PAOI 

88,  93 
._  112 
_  112 


homemade 

self- boiled    

MACHINES  FOR   SPRAYING 

MACKAY,   L.    GERTRUDE, _  104 

MAIDEN   BLUSH ""  15     35 

lM/.,lroso.U,l    ,1 MERICANA '    89 

MAI.ACOXfJMA    DISSTRIA 89 

MAMMOTH    BLACK    TWIG 16 

MANX  15 

MARL     .    33 

MARTHA     CRAB 16 

M  ASKEW.   FREDERICK 36 

MATURE  TREE   PRUNING 56 

McGOWAX.    MRS.    HUGH ~    103 

McIXTOSH 15 

McMAHON     WHITE II__~  15 

MECHANICAL    GRADERS 98 

MILDEW 75,   115 

affecting  Yellow  Newtowns 30 

powdery  of  the  apple 94 

MILLED  SULPHUR 96,    112,    115 

MINERAL     NITRATES 66 

MIXKLER 15 

MISSOURI    PIPPIN i 15,    36 

MITES '115 

MONTREAL     CRAB 36 

NATURAL     BRACING 57 

NATURAL  ENEMIES  OF  THE  WOOLLY  APHIS 85 

XELSON,   PROF.    J.   W 38 

NICOTINE 75,    112,    113 

XITRATE  OF   SODA,    SPRAYING 65 

NITROGEN 39,  65 

X«  >XE-SUCH    36 

NORTHERN  SPY 15,   35 

NORTHWESTERN 15 

XoZZLES     77 

XUMRER  OF  TREES  PER  ACRE \ 40 

OAK    ROOT    FUNGUS 92 

OIL    HEATERS    FOR    FROST    PROTECTION--- 73 

OLDENBURG 15 

ORANGE    PIPPIN 15 

ORCHARD    HEATING 73,    71 

ORTLEY 15,   22,    28,    35 

' 'YSTER    SHELL   SCALE 88 

PACKIXG     97 

SJZA  of  boxes  and  styles  of  pack 99 

•pedal    packages 100 

PACKING    HoUSKS    HARBOR    CODLING    MOTH 84 

PAINTING     WOUNDS 59 

I'ALhAChT!  A      VKRNATA 89 

PARAGON     14,     15 

PARIS    GREEN 81,    112,    114 

PARTHENorARPIC   DEVELOPMENT   OF   FRUIT 70 

PEWAUKEE     - 15 

PICKING 97,    98 

PIPING    SVSTEM    OF   SPRAYING 77 

PLANT    PCX  ing  by 58 

takf-n   fn.in    soil   by  cover  crops 62 

PLANTING  __38-43 

number  of  trees  per  acre 40 

preparation    of   soils   for 38 

selection  of  trees  for 35 

systems    40 


122  INDEX. 

PAGE 

PLANT    LICE 75 

PLOWING    40 

PLUM     CIDER 15 

PODOSPHJERA    LEUCOTRICHA 94 

PODOSPHJERA    OXYACANTHJE ___      94 

POINTS  ESTABLISHED  FOR  TREES  IN   SETTING 42 

POISONOUS     INSECTICIDES _    112 

POLLINATION    OF   VARIETIES 36 

POWER    SPRAYERS 77 

PRODUCTION ' 104 

PROPAGATION 31,  34 

PROTECTION  OF  APPLES  FROM  FREEZING 70 

PROTECTORS  FOR  YOUNG  TREES 45 

PRUNING 15,    27,   28,  46,   49 

annually    : 54 

cutting   to   outside   buds 55 

fourth  and  fifth  seasons 54 

heavy    with   Jonathan 21 

height  of  head 46 

influence  of  variety  on 52,  56 

influence  upon  frost 73 

low   heading 46 

mature    trees 56 

saw 50 

second    season 47 

shears 59 

summer 47,   56,   57 

third    season 52 

to  control  mildew 30 

young  tree  when  set ; 46 

PURPLE   APPLE   APHIS 86 

QUESTIONS  SENT  TO  APPLE  GROWERS .__        9 

QUINCUNX   SYSTEM  FOR   PLANTING 40 

RAFFIA  BUDDING  FIBRE 34 

RAKER,   JUDGE  J.    S 99 

RALLS 15,    72 

RAMBO     15 

RECIPES    106-111 

RED   ASTRACHAN 15,    36 

RED    HUMPED    CATERPILLAR '    90 

RED    JUNE 15 

RED    PEARMAIN ., 15 

RED   WINTER 15 

REED,  HAYWARD 77 

REGIONS  FOR  APPLES  OUTLINED  BY  WICKSON 5 

RESISTANT  VARIETIES  TO  WOOLLY  APHIS  ATTACK 85 

RHODE  ISLAND  GREENING 14,  15,  25,  36 

RODENTS,   protection   against 45 

RODGERS    BROS 100 

RODS  FOR  SPRAYING 77 

ROMANITE   15 

ROME  BEAUTY 14,    15,    23.    24,    35 

late  blooming  habit 72 

pruning    of 52 

ROOT-GRAFTING 34 

ROOT-HAIRS    46 

ROOTS,    SEEDLING 34 

ROOT  SYSTEM  DAMAGED  IN   DIGGING 46 

ROT-FUNGI 47,  58,   59 

ROWE,     GEORGE 24 

RUSSETING   FROM   FROST 72 

PAN   JOSE    SCALE__.  __88,    104 


PAGE 
SCAB    H5 

affecting    Fellow    Newtowns 30 

description  and  control  of 

knowledge  necessary  in  spraying  for 75 

SCALE.  San  Jose,  scurfy  and  oyster  shell 88 

SfHI7.ri!A   ro.Yr/.YxVA 90 

SCIONS     60 

SECOND   CODLING    MOTH    SPRAY 83 

8BO  >XI>   SEASON    PRUNING 47 

SEEI>,   instructions  for  sowing .!_  31 

SEEDLINGS    31 

roots     34 

union  of  buds  with  stem 32 

SETTING     BOARD 44 

SHEEPNOSE     15 

SHERIFF 15 

SHOCKLEY   36 

SIBERIAN    CRAB 16 

SMITH —                                      --15.  36 

SMOKEHOUSE     15 

SMUDGING    73 

SOIL    38 

baking    of 

deficiency  of  nitrogen 6:? 

hardpan 38 

Norfolk    sandy    loam 39 

Portsmouth   sandy  loam 39 

retention   of   moisture 63 

SPITZENBERG     25 

SPRAY     FORMULAE 1    112 

SPRAYING    15,    73.  75 

influence    upon    quality 102 

machines 77 

piping    system    of 77 

quantity  of  material  for 78 

SPRING  CANKER  WORM 89 

\RE   SYSTEM   FOR   PLANTING   TREES 40 

STANDARDIZATION  METHODS  AFFECTED  BY  THINNING 67 

STARK    15 

STATISTICS,  tables  of 5,  10,    11,   12.  1 'J 

STAYMAN    WINESAP 1 15,  25 

STUBS  — 47,   58,  61 

SUMMER,    cultivation 65 

pruning 47,   56,  57 

varieties    15 

SUN-BORERS     46 

SUN-SCALD    45,    46,  47 

SUTTON , 14,  15 

SWAAR. 14,  15 

TAYLOR,    E.    P 87 

TENT     CATERPILLARS 

TERMITES    47 

THERMOMETERS    FOR   ORCHARD    HEATING    WORK 74 

THINNING 67,  68,  69 

necessary  for  best  results 27 

of  Gravensteins 19 

THIRD  CODLING  MOTH  SPRAY 83 

THIRD    SEASON    PRUNING 52 

THOROUGHNESS    IN    SPRAYING 77 

TOLMAN    15 

TOP-WORKING   APPLE   TREES 60 

TRANSCENDENT    CRABS 16.  36 

TREATMENT    OF    WOUNDS 59 

TREE  PROTECTORS 45 

TRIANGULAR  SYSTEM  FOR  PLANTING                                                       40 


124  INDEX. 

PAGE 

TUSSOCK    MOTH 89 

TWENTY    OUNCE 15 

UTTER 15 

VARIETIES,  adaptation  of 38 

cross   pollination   of 35 

description   of 16-30 

list  of 14,    15 

selection  of  for  planting 35,    36 

self   fertility   of 35 

*  size   varies   with 67 

supplementary    list   of 15 

undesirable  should  be  removed 7 

variation  in  time  of  blooming- 36 

VENTURIA     INAEQUALIS 92 

VINEGAR '. 102 

VOLCK,  W.  H 56,  57,  66,  94 

WAGENER 14,    15,    26 

WALBRIDGE 15 

WALTERS,   S.   A 103 

WATER  SPROUTS 56 

WAXES,  grafting :_      61 

WEALTHY 15 

WELDON,  MRS.  GEO.   P 104 

WHALE   OIL  SOAP 88,    112,    114 

WHIPPLE,  PROF.    O.   B.___ 70 

WHITE    BELLFLOWER___ 22 

WHITE     PIPPIN 15 

WHITEWASH 45 

WHITNEY    CRAB '. 16 

WICKSON,  PROF.  E.  J 5,   31 

WILSON,   PROF.   H.  F 87,    113 

WINESAP 14,  15,  16,  26,  28,  35,  36,  52,  67 

WINTER    BANANA 28 

WINTER  PEARMAIN 14,  15,  27,   35,  36 

WOLF    RIVER 15 

WOOLLY  APHIS 23,   37,  75,    84,   85 

WOUNDS,  treatment  of 59 

WRAPPING     PAPER 100 

YELLOW  BELLFLOWER 5,   14,  15,  22,  28,   30,   35,   36,   71,  72,   99 

YELLOW  NEWTOWN 5,  14,  15,  28,   29,  35,  99 

YELLOW  TRANSPARENT 15,    36 

YORK  IMPERIAL 15 

YOUNG   TREES,   caring  for 44,  45 


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